Not going to post a how to but some pictures to help others get an idea on how they can do it.













I didn't get a picture of me doing the fiberglassing but the duct tape was the backing for it. I was getting irritated with it.

The bolts are 3/8 stainless with 1.5" wide fender washers. I epoxied the head of the bolt to the washer then used silicon between the washer and inside of the door to hold the bolts in place.

 

Very nice work! Do you know approximately how far the boxes stick out past they're normal, factory, distance? It appears to be around 5". I did a very similar job, only I made boxes that protrude out. I like your flat/flush look a lot better, but I have to be able to put lumber and plywood back there.

 

Looks good

 

Tagged this for home where I can see the pictures

 

It is 5 inches at the bottom and around 2 inches at the top.

 

Why not 2 in the driver side?

 

I wanted it to be symmetrical. Plus I didn't want to add more weight then needed to the doors.

 

Weight was what I was thinking, especially so far out on the end. So how does it sound?

 

It sounds good. But for now it has the vibration sound on the outside at the back only. I'm going to replace the weather strip and dynomat the door to stop it.

 

I put some vinyl tubing over the lock/latch rods, and barn door handle where there were conflicts. All those mechanisms are pretty loose, and add to the rattling you hear outside the truck.

 

Cool, so, by my math, that's pretty darned close to not being 8' to the folded second row seat backs right?

Excellent idea, thanks and reps.

 

Most of mine sounds like vibrating fiberglass.

 

Just measured and it is right at 8' with the 2nd row folded.

 

I went with alpine 10" type s, the hidden look with 1 in each door. They sound awesome!
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Fixed your post

How are those sealed? Or are they free air speakers?

I used these kickers because they were in my Super Crew when I bought the truck from a friend and they hit better then another friends 12" JVC's.