Thanks for the reply.
My question with the truck edelbrock intake is, how would it choke the motor?
Small runners? Bad runner design?

Also if converting to the single T-body design, besides needing a new T-body, Would I also need the brackets for the throttle cable? Or even new Throttle cable? and the cable that goes to the trans (Kickdown cable I think?) Also I'd need a new airbox set up. (I have a K&N intake tube with filter), IAC sensor? What about EGR?

If the edelbrock truck intake really sucks, I think I'd just gasket match port the intake and be done with it.

 

Both Edelbrock intake versions use the same lower so port sizes are the same, but the truck upper has much longer runners.. 4 or 5 inches longer than the stock truck intake. The design intent of this is to amplify gains on a stock motor which is 0-4000rpm, if that is your goal then OK but if you want to spin the motor a little higher and add some HP then it becomes a bottleneck. You see this with all these tuned port motors, the LS1 has longer runners than the LT1 for example because that motor(LS1) is designed to make power at lower rpms.

The single blade throttlebodys do use a slightly different cable attachment and mounting bracket so you would need those parts from a Mustang, Explorer, or Gen1 Lightning.. all of which used single TB intakes. But the upside is the air intake tubing is simpler and there are hundreds of aftermarket kits and parts out there that could be used to create a custom intake setup with a K&N or whatever. most newer trucks also use a single TB intake as well so you should have no problems finding something that would work in the junkyard.

Both the Typhoon and Performer have ports for the IAT sensor and are internally plumbed for EGR so you could use a Mustang style EGR block to get a functional system and not need any external tubes. Of course that assumes the heads you buy are also setup for EGR, if not then the system will just be there for looks.

The big problem with the stock 5.8 truck intake is the lower, it's squashed down and has kinked runners as a result so it's not just the size of them, you can see how much taller the Typhoon lower is, the ports have nice gradual turns so this thing does work much better. Porting would certainly help the stock intake but there is only s much you can do, you would definitely be leaving potential on the table if you keep it.

 

Thanks for your information. Gave me alot to think about.

With the truck intake, choking at 4000rpms... I ask this question (To you or to myself) How often does your truck hit 4000rpms?

I think for right now I'm going to use the stock intake and peice together a single T-body setup.. That way I can atleast use the truck until I have all the parts.

Also would you lose low end torque using a Typhoon/Performer versus stock/Edelbrock trunk intake? If so, Alot? Alittle? Will the butt-dyno notice? For sake of argument lets say the truck will be used for towing ( A car ) or for being driven in bad weather.. Like snow.

How bad would it really hurt to just use the stock intake? I feel like I'm over thinking it.. Its a truck, not a race car.

 

What about a cam a little bigger. I know we've gone over this a number of times, but I want a little more cam I think. (And seems like the op does also)

 

Where is mileage in your rankings?

There is a point where an intake restriction hurts mileage, open it up helps, open it more hurts again. Where do these intakes fall in that respect?

 

Not very often at all because I now use it for work hauling heavy trailers.. so I'm kinda regretting putting the bigger cam in it.

Don't waste you time fabricating a single TB.. the stock dual is equivalent to a single 72mm which is plenty to support 350+ hp.

The difference wont be huge, the runner length in Typhoon/Performer is roughly the same as the stock Ford intake and any boost you may lose will be more than made up for with the added cam lift and better flowing heads

You'll get impressive gains at low rpms but it'll be all over at about 3500rpm.. which may be good enough or even perfect for what you want to do with it.

 

Thank you for all your information.
I got the cam installed today. I found the timing chain is a double non-roller chain. Is that stock? Its heavier than the single non-roller CompCams one I bought

 

Got my heads cleaned up, lapped the valves, new springs, retainers, keepers.
Torqued the driverside head- Okay. Started the passenger side head, started at 60fts and pulled the threads out of one hole. I did chase and clean before hand. Oh well, Thread-sert repair kit is on its way.

 

Getting there

<a href="http://s79.photobucket.com/user/killert99/media/20130817_155513_zps5b70b42a.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j155/killert99/20130817_155513_zps5b70b42a.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20130817_155513_zps5b70b42a.jpg"/></a>

 

Killert, I just noticed, norristown pa...
I'm in Lansdale.
Let me know if you need a hand or anything. I works nights but maybe we can catch up and talk trucks some time.

 

Ooohhhh shiney headerss.... are they long or shorts?

 

You would have done better simply by buying a stock replacement, double row, roller chain set for a late 80's to mid 90's HO 5.0. Last one I bought (9 years ago) is still doing the job inside my 9 year old 331, cost me all of $25 at the local O'Reilly's.

 

Headers are shortys.

I actually just put the stock chain back in, It was still tight.

Got it running today. I set the timing.. and had the headers glowing in a about two minutes. I think my balancer has slipped. I advanced it by hand maybe 10* and the headers still were glowing, but not as bad. I shut off after 10minutes. I'm going to replace the balancer and start back up the break in process.

It does sound good, but I'm sure I'll be replacing the 02sensor again... It's probably cooked.

 

What kind of headers are they

 

Still having trouble with it.
Confirmed timing is right. Plugs are clean, not white or black.
Headers still start to glow pretty quick @ 2000rpms

What should my fuel pressure be running? I'll check it with my gauge.
When the headers start to glow, they start at the collectors the slowly up the tubes. It takes 5 minutes @ 2000rpms to see color change in the collectors. So far I've got about 15minutes of 2000rpms. I'd like to get another 15 before I feel good about the cam.

Running Motorcraft platinum plugs if it matters

Also, found some antifreeze leaking on the ground under the engine towards the rear. Hope it's not the new headgaskets.