Hi all,
Thought I had better start this thread to keep all my ongoing mods
and probs in one thread instaed of spread out over several.

Finally found the port for the AE and was able to change tyre size
so the speedo should now be a lot closer to reality.

I have the following list of codes to report.
I will read up in my manual but any tips from the FTE crowd are
always welcome.

Anti-Lock Brake
B1676
GEM/Central Timer
B1428
B1876
B1352
Enhanced Powertrain
P0603
P0606
P0541

Batteries are to flat to start the track again today so its now a
day of fuse pulling, wish me luck.

 

Your list makes my list look good.

P0603 = Intl Ctrl mod KAM error (Keep Alive Memory - happens when the batteries are dead or removed) - I'd guess the 606 is also to do with the KAM;
P0541 - AIH error - happens when you delete the AIH.

I suspect all the B codes are to do with your ABS sensor out.

Good luck!

 

Finally got onto tracing the battery drain.
Had 2.5 amps!!!! drain, no wonder the batteries were dying.

Pulled fuse 105, under the bonnet, a 50Amp one that my manual
says is "Junction Box Battery Feed".
This dropped the drain current back to 0.03 ammps.

Replaced it and started pulling fuses under the dash.
Pulled number 4, manual says "Map Lamps, Power Mirrors,
Underhood Lamp".
This dropped the drain back to 0.03A again.

However it also stopped the electric windows from working even
though the manual says they are supposed to be on fuse 7.

There a definatly some electrical gremlins lurking in the wires.

 

Has the physical mounting of the alarm, siren, etc, squashed on drilled into a wire. Where is the alarm mounted?

 

I will have to do some very thorough checking, there is a lot of "non-standard" wiring under the dash.
There is:-
1. the wiring for an outback roof console with a UHF CB in it.
2. Kenwood DVD,
3. Turbo Timer,
4. Switch for driving lights that operates a relay under the bonnet,
5. electric brake controller,
6. left over wiring from a Codan HF radio the previous owner had installed,
7. there was a BDpower Xmonitor that was not conected to a display that I have removed
8. I have added wiring for 4 gauges and the lighting for them.

In amongst all that is the alarm wiring and the alarm's brain box is
cable tied to a bracket under the dash.

The stuff I installed, and the alarm installation are both neat and tidy,
the previously added stuff was pretty ugly, lots of tangles, old electrical
tape ec and was generally messy.

I have removed as much reduntant stuff as possible and taken to the
previous mess with soldering iron and heat shrink tube.
Its much better than it was. I have spent quite a few hours under there
over the last week and I have not seen any crushed, nicked or drilled into.

The alarm siren is bolted to the inside drivers side mudguard near the brake
master cylinder.

All the wiring throught the firewall is now grommetted and its all loomed in split corrugated tube.

I will just have to keep going over all the wiring and double check everything.

 

Your battery drain is (also) when the vehicle is switched off, so I'd be looking for anything using power on an unswitched circuit. E.g. the top 12V outlet in the dash above the ashtray and bottom outlet. The top outlet is unswitched - it's good for charging mobile phones. There could be a short there, or the PO has used the power feed there for something else (fitted or removed) with a wire now grouding...

 

Good point mate, I'll check it out tomorrow.

Hows your breakdown fix going, was it the CPS?

 

Got a code P0344 today which is a CPS code. Also the 'hiccup' symptom fits exactly with that type of failure - so 90% sure that's what is it. 4 years ago I extracted a P0340 (CPS intermittent) code and thought nothing more of it, till today.

Lesson learned today - carry a spare CPS and deep 10mm socket - like I've read numerous times in the past too. I've now ordered 3 off amazon expressed to my Viaddress suite in Indianna. On arrival I'll express them here. Probably cost me about $200 delivered. And from now on I'll be carrying TWO spares.

I just read about someone getting their F250 towed to a dealership and being slugged $690 for a CPS replacement.

 

You would think that by the 21st century they could make something as
brain dead simple as one of these sensors that would keep working for the
500,000+ kms you should expect to get out of a well maintained diesel
engine.
I think this built to fail mentallity is disgusting, I hate it.

Guess I had better get a couple of spares and keep them handy.

 

I have found what some of the codes are.

B1352 Ignition Key-in Circuit Failure - Instr Clstr
B1676 Battery Voltage Out of Range - EATC
B1676 Battery Voltage Out of Range - DSM
B1676 Supply Voltage Out of Range - ABS

Still no idea what these are about.
GEM/Central Timer
B1352
B1428
B1876

Anyone have any knowledge of these codes?

 

Brian, charge batteries, clear codes, start up, then check codes to see if they return. The codes could be there due to your low battery voltage/flat batteries.

Most cars are now made to a price - NOT ENGINEERED up to a quality.
Any manufacturer which tries to buck this trend will probably go broke these days.

90% of customers buy to a price, and many of these just follow the 'herd'.
e.g. if 25% of cars on the road are Mazda 3's & this car wins journo praise, & a few celebs are seen in them, etc, etc, etc, then suddenly 50% of the cars on the road are Mazda 3's, ad nuseum, this car, that car something else.

Is build quality beyond 5 to 8 years down the track a factor in the purchase? Unlikely!

 

Yeah, I know, the disposable society.

Computer printers are my biggest pet hate at the moment, the
damn ink replacements cost more than the bloody printer!
They expect you to throw away the printer when the ink runs out
and buy a new one.

I appreciate people who do things to the best of their ability, people
who take pride in their work. I admire quality products, I expect stuff
to last and so this built down to a price not up to a standard mentality
is abhorant.

Anyway, old phart's rant over.

My most pressing job now is finding whats on fuse 4 that is draining 2.5
amps when the ignition is off. More time under the dash.

Wish me luck.

 

Here is an example of your codes:
B1352 Ford Audible Warning Device OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
B1428 Lamp Seat Belt Circuit Failure OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com
B1876 Seatbelt Driver Pretensioner Circuit Failure OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code | Engine-Codes.com

It could be due to low voltage to the circuits (as Simon mentioned), or other issues (the first 2, the previous owner may have disabled)

 

Im not electrically minded but if I had an issue the first person I would PM is Megawatt. He is a top bloke and a electrical guru. Introduce ya self and see if he can help..

 

Brian (b) I also note that my UHF radio is wired into a permanent power source - possibly to do with it being bad for the UHF unit to have it continually switched on and off with the ign.
You mentioned the PO had fitted, then removed a UHF unit.

It could be worth seeing if a cut wire around where the UHF unit was has grouned - and close up the ends of any cut wires you find.