Manifold Air Intake Heater Relay
#1
Manifold Air Intake Heater Relay
So I had my mechanic doing a bunch of things to my truck and had my AIH delete kit ready to put in. So I had him do it while he was doing everything else. Well when he took out the AIH he also removed the whole relay. Will this cause any issues? Other then throwing a few codes?
#6
I am not certain on the '02-'03 models....but in my truck the AIH and Alternator charge wire are on the same circuit. How did your mechanic insulate the ALWAYS HOT wire that was connected to the AIH relay? If that wire was just left to dangle around, then it would likely short to ground and (hopefully) blow the fusible link to protect from causing a fire. If that fusible link blows....then your alternator won't charge the batteries.
Do you have one or two alternators? The PCM is involved in dual alternator set ups.
Here is a diagram of the '99-'01 wiring. The '02-'03 may be similar...
Do you have one or two alternators? The PCM is involved in dual alternator set ups.
Here is a diagram of the '99-'01 wiring. The '02-'03 may be similar...
#7
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#8
I have an '02 harness at home that I can look at if you get stuck.
#10
#11
Here is the pic of the wire that is just taped with electrical tape on the end. It looks like the same wire (colors and size) as the wire coming from the alternator.
If this truly is the wire from the alternator, What do you recommend I do to get it hooked up to my batteries? Same guage wire and hook to passenger battery?
Here is a pic of the plug
If this truly is the wire from the alternator, What do you recommend I do to get it hooked up to my batteries? Same guage wire and hook to passenger battery?
Here is a pic of the plug
#13
Look on the passenger side positive battery terminal. Is there a wire connected to that lug? Here is a photo showing how I made a '02-'03 battery cable work in my '99-'01 truck. I had to add the battery charge wire as shown. Your truck should have something similar except it should be routed differently (since you don't have the fender mounted solenoid like the earlier models...)
#14
#15
In my opinion (for what it's worth...), the ideal solution is to re-install your IAH relay and land the wire there so the rubber boot covers the stud against arcing. You also are concerned about the control wires as well....what happened to those?
The AIH and GP relays operate the same way. Each relay will have two large terminals and two small terminals. The large terminals are normally OPEN. This means they are not connected to each other (yet). On an unmodified truck, each relay has a wire that runs directly to the battery with a fusible link somewhere in line. There is NO removable fuse or circuit breaker....just a direct wire that may have a junction block somewhere along the line. That battery wire is connected to one of the large terminals on the relay. The remaining large terminal has a wire that runs to the LOAD (whatever is being powered). For the GP relay, there are two load wires...one that runs to each bank of glow plugs. For the AIH relay, there is one large load wire that powers the air intake heater element.
The small terminals are used to actuate the relays. When power is applied to that circuit....a strong coil is energized and it moves a large copper washer inside the relay so it connects the two large terminals internally(thus providing battery power directly to the load). One of the small terminal wires will have 12v power when the key is on. The other wire runs to the PCM. So, when the engine is running....each relay has TWO wires that are hot. The large wire from the battery (hot all the time) and one of the small (usually red) wires which is hot when the key is on. When the PCM decides to activate either relay....all it has to do is ground the signal wire (small terminal) and the system will work. The beauty of this system is the PCM never sees full current on that signal wire since it merely is a ground and it always has some sort of load on it so voltage should drop quite a bit.
Allowing your mechanic to remove the AIH relay completely resulted in 5 wires that were orphaned. One of those wires was the power wire that fed the heating element so it can be removed without issue and since it was on the load side of the relay it's not going to be missed (except for when the PCM performs it's CCM or KOEO tests). The other large wire is still hot all the time so that needs to be addressed, which you just took care of. There are 3 small wires left still. One is a signal wire to the PCM and another has power when the key is turned on. If those two wires touch while the engine is running it can cause PCM damage IF the PCM were to attempt to activate that circuit. From what I've read, it just burns out the circuit that controls that device and nothing more is affected but it's safer to avoid that issue entirely and leave the relay in place simply to keep the wires in order and avoid potential issues.
Do you still have that relay? If so, then you might be better off putting it back on the truck. Here is a photo to show you what it will look like when installed without the heating element attached.
BTW....did you check for a wire that is connected to the positive lug of your passenger side battery? If your mechanic removed that wire then your alternator will be off line. Just an FYI...