Well, I guess I should introduce myself first. I'm Casey aka Schiz. I'm a nerd/gamer. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I can turn a wrench. I'm an awesome googler(no-homo). I'm going to try my best to include everything I can think of in this post, as it relates to the truck. Bare with me, it could get a little long.

I have a 1998 F-150 2WD 4.2l V6. I've been scouring forums and the internet off and on for about a year, so I really apologize if my questions have been answered somewhere else on this site that doesn't have enough adwords or traffic for google to pick up lol.

I bought my truck about 3 years ago($500), slave clutch pump was out($60 or so, easy fix). Drove it like crazy for 3 years. I definitely got my money out of it. I was pretty much a Ford Guy before I bought this truck, but it has concreted my opinion in.

Now for the problems:
When I bought the truck it coded P1537 and P1538, I wasn't real concerned, because it didn't "really" give me issues. I use the term very loosely, but it didn't seem to keep me from getting to point B when I left point A.

About a year ago, my truck started cutting out, so I figured it was time for a new fuel filter, plugs and such. No problem, took care of it. Ran good for a couple months, then started cutting out again. Replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, and O2 sensors. I'm poor and they were somewhat cheap replacements. I had read it was more than likely the fuel pump, but seeing as I'm not much of a mechanic, a fuel pump job was a little too pricey for me at the time. It ran pretty good for a few days, then started acting up again. Drove it acting up for quite a while, then it got pretty terrible and I had the extra money, so I decided to have the fuel pump replaced. Got it, no problem, awesome. Ran pretty good for a few days, then started acting up again. I found out they hadn't replaced the "sending unit", pretty easy to figure out since my fuel gauge didn't work lol. Went back and forth with the mechanic for a while, long story short, they didn't replace it. So, I bought another Fuel Pump assembly(with the sender), and installed it myself, with some help from my cousin(his hands are smaller than mine). Fixed it, no problem, let's go, nope. Ran good for a couple days, then right back to the same ol' acting up.

I started scouring the internet a little more in depth. I changed the DPFE sensor, the AIC, and the MAF. No-go. I cleaned the EGR valve, and just about everything else I could clean. Pulled the upper intake, found some vacuum leaks in elbows of the PCV hoses, replaced the hoses. Cleaned the PCV valve(it rattles, the spring is still springy tho).

I have oil on my oil pan, I'm not sure it my front main seal is leaking or if it's an oil pan leak., possibly a Timing case gasket? I have a little oil in my intake manifold, assuming it's blowing by one of the pistons a little. I ran the truck out of oil, because there was no sign that I had a problem via the cockpit. None of my guages acted up or anything, no clanking or anything. It still starts, and will run, but not very good. It surges, bogs down(almost dies in idle). I popped the seal on the Catalytic converter, so it backfires a bit. When I pull up to a stop sign, and try to accelerate again, it usually wont. I can full throttle it, then it will pick up sometimes until the next time I stop.

I took it down to O'Reilly's today to have it coded, only the P1538 code came up, I think the guy didn't know how to go to the next code on his scanner tho, because i don't think I fixed the other one, unless it was on accident. I had reset the codes manually(pulled the battery cable for 10 minutes) a little before I took it to be tested. Had to wait for the CEL to come back on in the parking lot. Is there a possibility that the other codes just hadn't registered yet?

I'm going to try to take a video of what's going on, since my wall of text is probably a little hard to follow.

I would appreciate any help offered to me, other than "You got your money out of it, move on." I'm somewhat in a bind, I borrowed money to buy a 2000 Crown Victoria 4.6l w/Police interceptor, that spit a plug the 2nd week I had it, acted crazy for a while, then the motor locked up. I think it's hydro-locked? I've lost my job, since neither car would make the commute, and got a bank payment coming in 3 weeks, where I will lose them both if I don't get something on the road to get another job. I figured the truck would be an easier fix.

Sorry, if I'm venting, but I did want to give my situation, so you guys could see that I'm pretty much at wits-end. I don't have the money to get another motor or vehicle. I've got a deal worked out where I'm getting my parts paid for(doing odd-jobs and such).

Anyone got any ideas what I should try next?

*Edit* It was backfiring through the air filter, which is what made me go the intake route in the first place. Now, it's backfiring at the Catalytic converter where I pulled it apart.

 

I probably should have just edited my first post, but I didn't want someone who had already read it to have to sort back through that wall of text to try to find my update.

The truck seems to idle pretty good now, but still hesitates and almost refuses to go when in gear. It gives some hesitation when out of gear, right after I throttle it. Refuses to go uphill. Is there some sort of fuel relay or something that could be getting weak to cause this? It's had 3 different fuel pumps in it(2 of them being new), so I would assume not all 3 were bad.

I can't get my video to upload anywhere off of my phone, I'll have to nerd out on it in a bit and see what I can do with that. Hopefully I've given enough detail for someone to maybe point me in the right direction without it, for now.

This guy on another forum seems to have the same issue, but it doesn't seem like anyone from that community had any sort of response.

I used cheap off-brand plugs the first time I changed my plugs and plugs wires, I have replaced the coil pack in the past, as well. Not since I've done all the rest of this stuff. I changed it at the same time I changed the Throttle Position Sensor. I changed to Motorcraft plugs a couple days ago, and noticed some marks on the connections on the coil pack. You guys think replacing the plug wires with Motorcraft ones, and replacing the coilpack would help me any? Or should I check my plugs and see if there is any new signs of the fouling out?

 

I'm willing to give you a try but it includes some personal advice.
First you need to get your feet on the ground as an adult and leave the games alone so they don't take up so much of your time.
You may be insulted by it but you offered the background.
It's called talking to much.
.
Did you ever bother to look up the codes and see what they mean?
1537 and 38 are for the intake runner control on a V6 motor.
Next you still have not described how the truck acts in any meaningfull manner.
The 37/38 codes usually don't cause such drive ability issues so something else going on.
By the way, as a responsibility to 'yourself' you need to check the oil level often on a elder truck or you ask for what happens if it runs out.
If I have not insulted you be now, lets procede.
I only need to know what the problems are now not in the past.
Good luck.

 

Mentioning that I'm a gamer and that I lost my job because 2 vehicles bit the dust the same week means I don't have my feet on the ground? I didn't realize mechanics were the only people who were adults. I need a vehicle to get to a job, not help finding one. Yes, I looked up the codes. Both banks were stuck open. An $800 shop fix (quoted price at the time) on a $500 truck didn't seem reasonable at the time, considering it wasn't giving me any "real" issues. Personally, I don't think those codes have anything to do with my current problem, but the first thing you do when you respond to people is ask what it's coding, so I told you ahead of time. I know something else is going on, that's why I'm here. I gave you the background in hopes that you would understand that I'm not in anyway, shape, or form a mechanic. If I knew what to tell you, I would know what to search for. I've read through a ton of this forum, and many others, trying to find a lead. Yes, I am at wits-end trying to triangulate this problem. No, I wont allow you to continue insulting me, just because we have different preferences and experiences. I need this truck fixed, and I really hoped you were the one who responded to my post, but if all you want to do is insult me, I would rather this thread die. You jump to conclusions about my personal life, but completely ignore anything I said about the truck. Is this a truck forum or my momma's house?


-The truck cuts out then bogs down when I stop, shift gears, or try to go up a hill, or "sometimes" just sitting there at idle.

-Always has some hesitation in the throttle. I give it gas, it takes a bit for it to rev.

-By bogs down, I mean it's trying to die, but it's barely staying running. Truck shakes, dash lights flicker a bit.

- If I full throttle it, "sometimes" it will pull itself out of it's "fits".

I replaced the coil pack and such about a year ago, so I have been steering clear of them. I replaced them with the cheapest I could get. I was told to try putting motorcraft plugs in it, so I did a couple days ago, without any change, but I didn't replace the wires or the coil pack. I did notice some signs of misfire on the coilpack.

I'm going to take it back to O'Reilly's tomorrow to have it coded again. I'm also going to finish taking the CATs off to alleviate back pressure possibilities.

 

Unfortunately....replacing with cheapest part available, although at the time may the best route or maybe only route, it usually comes back to haunt you sooner than you like.

Best to rule out the plug wires with better quality stuff & if there is arching traces on the coil pack need to understand where they are coming from. Maybe go out at night and start it up... lots easier to see the arching then. To determine if it is coming from the spark plug wire boot of the plug wire or the coil pac.

You can try to clean the IAC, which controls the idle,...to see if that helps or improves the idling and running. There is a small rod inside that needs to freely move. (WD 40 can be a great cleaner for this). If improvement is gained from cleaning, it may need another cleaning...but it may also need replacing. It maybe that you still have a vacuum leak else where.

Might not hurt to change the fuel filter & test the fuel pressure.

did you replace the intake isolators?
see if this sounds/seems familiar >> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...and-p0305.html

Sometimes getting the codes scanned at a parts store is not the best route...maybe try a different place to get the codes scanned...might be that the one who did this for you ...is , well, not very educated in that area. They should be able to clear the codes too. Clearing the code needs to done...so that ...if...the CEL lite comes back on then you can see what codes are returning and get a more accurate picture of the issue/s.

Usually catalytic convertors don't go bad...they have contributing factors that help them...over fueling and extended misfiring can be some of the biggest. So if you replace your cats and not cure the problem, you may wipe out another set of cats in short order.

A side note;
Everyone here really does try to help....when unnecessary personal information is brought into the picture, one can get more than one bargains for in return. SO don't be too hard on those who respond...they have a wealth of knowledge to tap into (Bluegrass7 is one of them) and remember these people work all day only to offer up advice for free in their off or free time to those who can't afford the dealership fix, so that owners like yourself can take prided in fixing it themselves or at least find more economical ways of repairing.

 

I appreciate the response, I tried cleaning my IAC and the port between it and the throttle body, then to be on the safe side, I replaced it.

I hadn't replaced the isolator bolts, because I'm not getting those codes. I had read not to start there, since it was a pretty big fix. (upon inspection, that guy's second link in his conclusion post was where I read not to start there lol.)

I do the same thing on a tech forum, but I don't go trying to intentionally insult people. In 100% honesty, I was just going to PM him my questions before I made this thread, because from what I had seen, he does seem to be one of the most richest in knowledge around here.

 

My '99 ran much like yours seems to, and it was just a plugged air filter. 8000 KMs on a new one, and it was sucked flat! Odd thing to happen, maybe, but all the electronics on these things are pretty finiky.

 

Yea, my air filter was pretty dirty, but I blew it out real good when I replaced my MAF sensor.

I just went out and pulled the vacuum line on my EGR valve and held my finger over it, with no change.(in reference to the link provided)

I think if I keep going, I will have a new truck. I assumed if I threw enough parts at the problem, eventually one of them would fix it lol.

 

If your getting a P1537-8 the manifold runners should be stuck open which is for high speed operation. You need them closed for proper low speed operation. Here's a link for some things to check. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-2l-6-cyl.html If I've misread and you've fixed the runner problem, disregard.

 

The runner control problem hasn't been fixed, but it shouldnt cause the truck to be unoperational?