I am repairing brakes on my 1967 F350 that has a Dana 70 rear axle with 12" x 3" drums. When I pulled the hub and drum off the passenger side I found the spring and lever for the self adjuster on top of the front shoe. I hope the drum is salvageable, it's not grooved to badly. The axle tube has the later type 2.875 dia. inner seal surface.
I need to ask for suggestions on how to get the hub out of the brake drum without damaging either. It appears the lug bolts are frozen to the drum and all I've done so far is soak them with penetrating oil and tap a wedge chisel into the small slots between the drum and hub. I have a 20 ton shop press and a hand held propane torch available if that's what's required.

What would you suggest?

 

When I am confronted with this situation, I beat the drum with a hammer until it comes off... since the drum is scored, replace it if possible as turning it might not work... I know this is probably not the answer you wanted to hear, but this is the only way I know of... I have a 1970 F250 which I had to beat the rear drums free then I replaced them... also replaced the slave cylinders at the same time...

 

Thanks for the reply.

The drum is not bad really. I can clean it up and lightly sand and reuse it. I have only removed the right rear so far. I want to preserve a 'how it goes together' example. I hope the other side and front are in good shape and can be reused.

Do the lug bolts splines go through the drum and into the hub or are they just splined in the drum?

I may go ahead and leave them together. I can pop out the seal and bearing and clean the assembly as one piece. I do not trust the local places that have brake lathes to try and true up a drum or rotor before they start cutting, especially on something this large and heavy. After all, they like selling parts, and a ruined drum/rotor makes them more money.

 

1967: First year for F350's with self adjusters...that only work (if they work at all!) when you back up and step on the brake pedal.

Cable (2A178) notorious for snapping, cable guide (2A179) can work loose, float around inside the drum, could end up between drum and brake lining.

Guess what happens when you step on the pedal? Guide chews the hell oughtta the drum and lining.

Left: Rear & front brake parts/self adjusters / Right: Typical Dana 60/70 - 1109 is the rear hub, 1124 is a lock ring, its tabs are bent over onto 4252 nuts to lock them in place.

1142 shown on outside of axleshaft flange are "pesky" (BB-1142-B) .. Rear Axle Shaft Stud Adapters, aka dowels ~ 3/4" O.D. x 27/64" I.D. x 13/16" long.

Note: 1967 first year that F350's have 8 lug wheels on a 6.50" bolt circle / 1953/66 F350's have 6 lug wheels on a 7.25" bolt circle.

 

The studs are friction fit in both the hub and drum. They are what keeps them together as an assembly. Use your press to slowly push the studs out. Then hub and drum will come apart.

 

I've put aside the brakes for today, my remanufactured engine has just arrived. I want to get it sealed up as soon as possible.

This engine makes the 4th one for this truck in the 2 months I've owned it! I'll give details of this saga when I have had a chance to examine this one better. So far it looks a lot better than the previous 2 reman engines I've rejected.
It has these casting numbers:
Block - D3TE with date code 4E20
Cylinder Heads - D2TE-AA (hardened valve seats?)

 

1965/67 F100/350: Only V8 available: 352 2V (B&S: 4.00" x 3.50").

D3TE block casting number prefix (foundry mark) pertains to both 360/390 since the block is the same (bore: 4.05"). 360 stroke (3.50") different than 390 (3.78").

4E20 = Block cast May (E) 20, 1974 (4).

D2TE-AA heads intro'd in 1972, came with hardened valve seats. But, who knows what type of valve seats a reman head has?

 

Here are some photos of the right rear on my truck. I am surprised the drum is not scarred badly. I guess all the grease (out of sight on the bottom of shoes) kept things sliding smoothly, instead of stopping.