Need Help! Will crank, won't start
#1
Need Help! Will crank, won't start
My baby is a 2002 F-250 7.3 diesel, and she needs help. It seems like it's not getting fuel into the engine, just keeps cranking. Fuel is in the fuel bowl, it will fire a little if you spray ether in it, but won't pick up any fuel. She was running fine all day, no hesitations, but won't start after running into the store.
Already tried- new starter, new cylanoid for the starter, fuses are good, looked at fuel pump reset-looked fine.
Could this be a sensor issue or an injector issue? Need some advice, please!
Already tried- new starter, new cylanoid for the starter, fuses are good, looked at fuel pump reset-looked fine.
Could this be a sensor issue or an injector issue? Need some advice, please!
#2
#3
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: D.C. but heart's in TEXAS
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First things first...if you've tried to crank it long for 4-5 times, you WILL need to put this on a charger to recharge the batteries. These trucks take tons of juice.
Second...is your Tach moving at all while cranking? If not, it is likely your CPS (Cam Position Sensor) which is only $20 (buy Ford OEM part only) and 10 minutes labor with a 10mm socket wrench. OVERALL, if you've never replaced your CPS, my money is on the CPS being the culprit.
Third...it could be either your ICP Sensor or your IPR. Unplug your ICP Sensor, and if it fires up, then you need to replace the ICP Sensor. Another indicator is that if you unplug the ICP and there is a lot of oil coming out of the connection, then it is going bad or has gone bad.
If you unplug the ICP Sensor and it does not start, it very well could be your IPR is the problem. Only problem is, it would be best to be looking at ICP Pressure with a tool like AutoEnginuity to see what the numbers look like with the ICP plugged in and not plugged in. You should be seeing 2000+ ICP pressure with it plugged in. If you're only seeing 0-50 with plugged in, well, your IPR is likely needing to be cleaned up / rebuilt.
AND SPEAKING OF IPR...make sure the Tinnerman nut is securely on the IPR itself. If it's missing or loose, it could affect starting. Usually the issue is in the truck dying after starting, but you never know.
Fourth...I know you said the fuses look good, but really check #30 (fuel bowl heater). If it's popped, unplug the fuel bowl heater, replace the fuse, and see what happens. BUT KEEP THE HEATER UNPLUGGED. If it's shorted out, it will continue to pop the fuse. You don't need the fuel bowl heater anyway, so leave it unplugged.
Fifth...check your Glow Plug Relay with a multimeter to make sure everything's in spec. I don't have a GPR in my trucks, but rather a GPCM, so you'll have to do some quick searching on these forums to find out what to look for...
Second...is your Tach moving at all while cranking? If not, it is likely your CPS (Cam Position Sensor) which is only $20 (buy Ford OEM part only) and 10 minutes labor with a 10mm socket wrench. OVERALL, if you've never replaced your CPS, my money is on the CPS being the culprit.
Third...it could be either your ICP Sensor or your IPR. Unplug your ICP Sensor, and if it fires up, then you need to replace the ICP Sensor. Another indicator is that if you unplug the ICP and there is a lot of oil coming out of the connection, then it is going bad or has gone bad.
If you unplug the ICP Sensor and it does not start, it very well could be your IPR is the problem. Only problem is, it would be best to be looking at ICP Pressure with a tool like AutoEnginuity to see what the numbers look like with the ICP plugged in and not plugged in. You should be seeing 2000+ ICP pressure with it plugged in. If you're only seeing 0-50 with plugged in, well, your IPR is likely needing to be cleaned up / rebuilt.
AND SPEAKING OF IPR...make sure the Tinnerman nut is securely on the IPR itself. If it's missing or loose, it could affect starting. Usually the issue is in the truck dying after starting, but you never know.
Fourth...I know you said the fuses look good, but really check #30 (fuel bowl heater). If it's popped, unplug the fuel bowl heater, replace the fuse, and see what happens. BUT KEEP THE HEATER UNPLUGGED. If it's shorted out, it will continue to pop the fuse. You don't need the fuel bowl heater anyway, so leave it unplugged.
Fifth...check your Glow Plug Relay with a multimeter to make sure everything's in spec. I don't have a GPR in my trucks, but rather a GPCM, so you'll have to do some quick searching on these forums to find out what to look for...
#4
#5
Another thing to check, is the oil level in your high pressure oil pump. If its too low, it won't start.
#7
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