1968-2013 Full Size VansEconolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550
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Picked up this van that the PO had gutted. I was going to put in some dome lights. Haynes manual useless, so ordered a Chilton's. In the meantime, thought I'd just toddle out there with my meter and fiddle. Found that there was 12v at driver's door with door open. So far, so good. Then I did a stupid thing: I was using an old tail light bulb in a socket as a "test light". Put it across the battery terminals to verify that it was working and "POP!". I think it was so old and crusty it just shorted. Blew the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box. I replaced the fuse. Now, no 12v to fuse box when connected to (driver's side) battery. I checked the only fusible link I could find, which was right above battery. I think I frapped something that feeds the fuse box. I have ordered an electrical manual off ebay. Also checked the motorcraft site, but they only go back to 96. If any kind soul has access to the fuse box wiring, or a diagram showing how it is fed, I would be grateful. Thanks,
P.S. Forgot to mention: I am the "oddball", as this is a 6.9L diesel.
Last edited by chronicnetpro; 07-17-2013 at 07:51 PM.
Reason: forgot details
I hate to admit it, but I'm about to send this thing to the crusher...
I got hayne's, chilton's, and electrical troubleshooting manual off ebay. The diagrams don't appear to be what I've got. The fuse box shown in manual not the same as mine.
I have checked all fuses and fusible links. I think. There was one fusible link on driver's side engine compartment above battery, and 7 on the passenger side near starter solenoid. All good. Still no juice to door switch, or to headlight switch, for that matter. I'm starting to get a feeling that I frapped something important, like the ECM (if it has one).
Did you remove the battery on the passenger side and look at the two or three fuse links low behind the battery?
Did you look at the three or four fuse links on the drivers side down near the steering column?
bill, as great as it is having the original books to look at, i have to say that there must be an error in the book - because my 87 has the old-style glass fuses, and i know many of them have the more modern blade fuses - which means a completely different fuse box.
also, its common for a given model of fuse box to be used on rigs with different accessories, and thus different fuse positions doing different things. we see it all the time.
some fords from this era had small writing on the fuse box to identify what a given fuse was for - IIRC it was written just above the fuse it was referring to.
my van, 87 e350, 6.9 NA, c6, 3.55s with a powertrax locker. built out with toolboxes and onboard 120v power and compressed air powered by twin 3g alternators
bill, as great as it is having the original books to look at, i have to say that there must be an error in the book because my 87 has the old-style glass fuses, and i know many of them have the more modern blade fuses - which means a completely different fuse box.
Read my post again. Where did I make any mention of whether the fuses were glass or blades?
I did not .. all I did was list the parts catalog applications for the fuse panels.
Here's a partial list of GLASS fuses (14526) for 1980/89 Econolines.
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.
I know that most vans from our era had blades, I wasn't trying to say that you said anything wrong, merely that the books seemed incomplete since I know that both styles were used and couldn't be the same part number.
subford, thanks. I did not find any additional fusible links near the aux battery, and no fusible links near the steering column. I tested all fusible links for continuity with pins and a voltmeter and thought they were good. I learned from another poster on another forum that he did the same thing, showed continuity but still had a fried fusible link. As I have gone this far, I suppose the thing to do is replace all existing fusible links with new (and butt connectors, so they can be easily replaced in the future).
Well, I kept scratching around and finally found a fusebox diagram that matched mine.
But my truck is an 87, and this fusebox is from an 88 Econoline. So I started thinking that maybe I've got some kind of "mid-year" mutant that is actually wired as an 88. That might explain why I'm striking out with the EVT manual. It doesn't match what I'm actually seeing. So... I've included this (page 38 INSTRUMENT ILLUMINATION).
Maybe some kind soul who has a EVT manual for an 88 can take a peek at it and see if it is different from mine. If so, I'll acquire the manual for an 88 and go from there. Thanks,
1987 E-350 6.9L Diesel
Based on that info, I will use the EVT I have and go back to searching for "hidden" fusible links that feed fusebox. I am missing voltage at fusebox (#2 for sure) and seeing weird voltage at door (like 8 volts).
Thanks to all who responded, particularly subford, who tipped me to the fact that one of the fusible links fed the fuse box. I am going to post everything I learned during this little fiasco, so some other poor schmuck may be able to find the solution a bit quicker.
So, anyway, it's a starter relay. The old one had 3 terminals, the new ones have 4. Just use the two big posts and the "S" terminal. All the fusible links and battery go on one post, ONLY THE STARTER on the other big post. Why this matters: the bracket is a little different on the new relay, you have to revolve it 180 degrees. While doing that, I accidentally moved some wires. I couldn't remember which went to what post (but there had been more than one on EACH). Another poster in the forums said all fusible links and batt on one, only the starter on the other. He was right. During this process I found that one of the fusible links that feeds the fusebox had been on the post with the starter (???). Putting it in the right position got power back to the fusebox.
If you don't have one, the Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting manual (off ebay) is a pretty decent book, useful and cheap (about 10 bucks). The Chilton's and Haynes are useless. If you don't have an EVT manual, and are in a big hurry, you might check for a wiring diagram here: BBB Industries - TSB's & Wiring Diagrams
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