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questions on installing lift

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Old 07-17-2013, 05:21 PM
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questions on installing lift

I finally got tired enough of my tires rubbing and bought a 4.5" rough country lift. Looking at the instructions, it doesn't say the torque spec for the track bar to the drop bracket. It just says torque to manufacturer's specifications. I've looked online and found 369 ft/lbs from some sources and an astronomical 405 ft/lbs from others. Which one is correct? My biggest torque wrench goes nowhere near either of those numbers, and I'm not about to spend hundreds of dollars on a giant wrench that I will never use again. Any ideas?

One more question, for the rear lift it came with angled blocks to correct the pinion angle. I think I remember hearing that angled blocks aren't good for trucks with a 2-piece driveshaft. Is this true? What will happen if I put it on anyway?

(btw the truck is a 2007 f-250 4x4 in case your on a phone and can't see my signature)
 
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Old 07-17-2013, 06:46 PM
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Max it out with your biggest torque wrench, then get a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar and a very long cheater pipe (i took the handle off my jack, had about 5' of leverage) and crank it down. Worked for me...think its 405 ft lb

You need flat blocks on a cclb
 
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by acf6
Max it out with your biggest torque wrench, then get a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar and a very long cheater pipe (i took the handle off my jack, had about 5' of leverage) and crank it down. Worked for me...think its 405 ft lb

You need flat blocks on a cclb
X2 on the 3/4" drive socket. I broke a 1/2" breaker bar, and than
bought a 3/4" drive bar with a cheater tube and bounced on it.
It was the only way to stop the death wobble. Don't worry about
over tightening it, more likely you won't get it tight enough.

Good luck with it.
 
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:09 PM
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i used a 1/2" Snap-on breaker bar and a piece of 1 1/2"x4' long steel pipe for leverage, got my buddy who weighs 350lbs plus to basically stand on the pipe and bounce on it untill the bolt stopped moving!
 
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:35 PM
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Ok it seems like no one actually torques it, basically just make it as tight as I can.

Does anyone know what will happen if I use the angled blocks? I've read about someone who used them with a cclb and said it was fine but I'd like more than one opinion
 
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by acf6
Max it out with your biggest torque wrench, then get a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar and a very long cheater pipe (i took the handle off my jack, had about 5' of leverage) and crank it down. Worked for me...think its 405 ft lb

You need flat blocks on a cclb
Ad some Loctite Red to that. Things will stay put.
 
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:33 PM
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I got it as tight as I could with a beefy SnapOn 1/2 breaker and the handle from my jack. Checked it a few times after install while under the truck doing other things and it was always fine.
 
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:58 AM
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sounds like what your doing is more stretching the bolt rather than going to specific value? is this correct?
 
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:20 AM
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I am looking to get the same lift. Did You have problems with the exhaust? Kit says You have to modify the exhaust on v10 gas models. Is that the case on diesel models?
 
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:42 AM
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I didn't have to do anything to the exhaust. I'm not sure why you would but then again I've never looked under a v10.
 
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:03 AM
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The exhaust is different on the v-10 vs diesel. I have that kit on my truck.
 
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:04 AM
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The exhaust issue I think depends on the year. Mine hit the driveshaft after the lift. As for the blocks for the driveshaft, mine was angled too. I still have a little driveline shudder on takeoff when pulling the camper, but haven't really worried about it or taken the time to work on it.
 
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Old 10-09-2013, 02:48 PM
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The 08+ V10 has big cylindrical cats and the front drive shaft hits them when lowered. The earlier (05-07 at least, not sure about earlier) V10 has flatter shaped cats and there's clearance.
 
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