after some starting issues, i found out, i just had to drive the truck to get the air out of the system.

But to drive it, i had to fix my clutch first.
I already bought a new lever and that expensive plastic bearing. However, it did not like the looks of it, so i used some 1/2” copper pipe, made a bushing,used two washers and a cotterpin and now, i feel much safer. here a pic:

 

now, to the bleeding part.. My slave cylinder does not have a bleeding screw on it. I did the reverse bleeding method by filling up the master cylinder and pressed the rod on the slave cylinder several times. I also depressed the clutch pedal at least a couple hundred times.. . now i am wore out, but i am still not satisfied.

I have to press the clutch all the way to the floor in order to drive and it engages way too early. Any help on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated?

 

as some of you know, i could not find a shift lever as of yet. none of the local salvage yards have any.. so i made my own...


found a child size short all aluminum baseball bat at walmart in ford blue... cut the bottom of, made a small bushing..for the inside and now i have a shifter.. works great though and has a perfect hight

here a before pic:

 

here a couple more under the hood pictures

still need to get a 45deg 4” pipe to align the filter.



and this is my fuel splitter:



btw i am also using new riffraff boots.. they pretty nice

 

ok.. to summarize the final items i need help with :

- has someone done a manual switching instead of the electric switching valve for the tanks.. mine been messing up.

- i have a strong vibration which seems to be in the driveline around 30mph, in idle or gear dont matter.. all u-joints are new and i do not have play in the system.

- need a best way to get the rest of the air out of my clutch..or do i need to install that lever under pressure?

 

When u bleed don't open the bleeder every time down with the pedal.push clutch repeadedly until it builds some pressure then bleed.the master moves so little of fluid it can not fill the slave fast enough and instead will draw air back in instead of our.the bleeder will prob just be a smal set screw.not like a wheel cylinder type

 

I did not see bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.. the line goes right to the cylinder.. but then again , i might be just blind.. or too old .

 

I like your shifter Stefan! Like Ronnie said in your other post, make sure the driveline is in time. No help on the clutch. You can buy a new valve, but I think they are kind of spendy. Maybe check out your junkyard.

 

Thanks Darin, that shifter has just the right height.
I'm still trying to understand that driveline issue though.. But I'm getting there :-)

 

Your getting it Stefan, looking good!

 

thanks Glen..

just got an interesting suggestion on my other threat to just delete one tank and go with a 38 gallon bronco tank.. or a larger center tank..not a bad idea though

 

The ones i have done it was just a set screw into the cyl.the hole for fluid to come out of was like next to the set screw.allen wrench operated it.
i haven't seen one with no bleeder but i guess anything is possible.just would seem like a bad idea.

 

i will check on that, and make a photo for reference.. once i get enough coffee in me

 

Mine had the little bleeder screw on the slave. I still haven't done that since my swap. Just pushed whatever air I could back through the master using the slave rod. Also not happy with it, but for the opposite reason.

Mine doesn't engage until all the way at the top. I have about 1.5" of clutch travel between fully in and fully out.

Anyways, your bleeder screw should be right on the bottom of the slave.

 

see pictures below. there is no bleeder screw on the slave at all...

What i ended up doing was i removed the slave, plugged temporary the hose, coming from the master, so the fluid does not run out, and then i laid the slave level on my workbench and used a syringe to fill it all the way to the top, making sure no air is trapped. I then re-installed it level under the truck.. of course while dern brake fluid was running all over me, from the master hose..I am pretty sure, that this method is the most sufficient and fastest to bleed any air .. when you do not have a bleeder screw