Proactive upgrades to like new 6.0 in 05 Ex
#1
Proactive upgrades to like new 6.0 in 05 Ex
Have an 05 Ex with 6.0 that is in great condition, 80k miles. Engine runs great, I don't pull a lot, used more for carting kids around. The handling is suspect but I've read about the spring upgrade. I've also read about a lot of preventative measures for engine reliability, ie coolant filter, upgrades to EGR & oil cooler, bulletproof FICM....What are best upgrades to start with on the engine side? My desire is to improve reliability and efficiency, but not to smoke out the neighbors, lol. Note: I did get a P0261 circuit low on injector #1 code in the past one one occasion but not since. My thoughts are coolant filter kit, intake kit, bulletproof FICM to start. Any thoughts?
#2
Your Ex depending on build date will have an 04 engine or an 05 engine and that will determine what items need to be addressed. Does your engine have the EGR throttle plate? Where is your EBP sensor located? On an 05 motor the EBP will be just below the FICM and connected to the front end of the drivers side exhaust manifold via a metal tube, if it is an 04 motor it will be mounted to the thermostat housing and connected in the same spot on the exhaust manifold as the 05. If you have an 04 engine the weak spot in the HPO system is the HPOP itself and the standpipes and dummy plugs ( although the standpipes and dummy plugs on the 04 engine are less a problem than they are in the 05 - 07 models ) If you have an 05 engine you will want to install the upgraded standpipes and dummy plugs and the STC fitting, the 05 and up HPOP rarely fails.
The other thing is get some gauges that read live data like the scan gauge II or one of the smartphone apps like Dashboss for IOS devices and torque for android devices. They are absolutely necessary in diagnosing problems with the 6.0L and will help you spot problems before they leave you sitting on the side of the road.
And last make sure you only use OEM/ Racor oil and fuel filters and oil filter cap and OEM air filters. Do not try to skimp on the maintenance schedule to save a buck or it will cost you big time down the road.
P.S. you will be much better served sending your FICM to Ed at FICMrepair.com , he will repair all known manufacturing issues that result in FICM failures and can also throw a tune on it and you will still be in to it less than you would be for a BPD FICM.
The other thing is get some gauges that read live data like the scan gauge II or one of the smartphone apps like Dashboss for IOS devices and torque for android devices. They are absolutely necessary in diagnosing problems with the 6.0L and will help you spot problems before they leave you sitting on the side of the road.
And last make sure you only use OEM/ Racor oil and fuel filters and oil filter cap and OEM air filters. Do not try to skimp on the maintenance schedule to save a buck or it will cost you big time down the road.
P.S. you will be much better served sending your FICM to Ed at FICMrepair.com , he will repair all known manufacturing issues that result in FICM failures and can also throw a tune on it and you will still be in to it less than you would be for a BPD FICM.
#3
Thanks for your input, much appreciated. I'll look into a data aq tool for sure and I have seen the kits available for standpipes, STC fitting, etc.
Definetly an '05 engine, build date 09/05, EBP as you stated on driver side below FICM. Also big yellow sticker on right side valve cover stating 2005 international engine series.
While poking around, noticed the tube routed from intercooler to turbo on passenger side has been bouncing around and rubbing on neg battery cable. The sleeves and clamps are in place and holding tight, but seems the metal tube is flopping due to it's weight. Maybe the upper sleeve is wearing out and not as rigid as new.
Also, exhaust has a slight vibration at idle. Just wondering if that was a common problem on these vehicles also.
Definetly an '05 engine, build date 09/05, EBP as you stated on driver side below FICM. Also big yellow sticker on right side valve cover stating 2005 international engine series.
While poking around, noticed the tube routed from intercooler to turbo on passenger side has been bouncing around and rubbing on neg battery cable. The sleeves and clamps are in place and holding tight, but seems the metal tube is flopping due to it's weight. Maybe the upper sleeve is wearing out and not as rigid as new.
Also, exhaust has a slight vibration at idle. Just wondering if that was a common problem on these vehicles also.
#4
Intake kit?
If you are thinking of removing the stock air filter, save your money for some other things. The stock air filter system is the best and has been reported to perform up to 500 HP. And, the thing holds a ton of dirt.
Welcome to FTE!
Have a gander at the "Tech folder" for some great info.
And if you want a ton of info, either, send me an e-mail at amdriven2liv@yahoo.com or go to this thread and post your address there and we can send you Bismic's spread sheets.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...wners-330.html
If you are thinking of removing the stock air filter, save your money for some other things. The stock air filter system is the best and has been reported to perform up to 500 HP. And, the thing holds a ton of dirt.
Welcome to FTE!
Have a gander at the "Tech folder" for some great info.
And if you want a ton of info, either, send me an e-mail at amdriven2liv@yahoo.com or go to this thread and post your address there and we can send you Bismic's spread sheets.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...wners-330.html
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Blue Spring kit installed and is noticeable! Engine is more responsive and seems to idle much smoother, also when coming off throttle and coasting you dont hear the injectors ticking at all. Recently I've noticed when truck is warm and driving from a stop occasionally I get a 2-3sec lag before engine will rev so the boat will barely move then suddenly jump out of it's pants when the turbo gets up to speed. Also got P0261 code a while back, and won't cold start very well. From what I've read I'm thinking my FICM is on the way out. I tested with volt meter and after key is on, the voltage jumps around until the truck is done with it's prestart stuff, then voltage stabilizes at 48V. Is that common? My thought is that it should be 48 when key is ON and stay 48 even under load. I should've started the engine and tested but chose not too, maybe tackle that this weekend.
#9
Howdy Fellow '05 Owner, mine has a July 2005 Build Date.
Your FICM should maintain 47.5 to 48.5 volts KOEO, cranking, and KOER. If at any point it drops below 45 volts the FICM half shell needs to be replaced.
If it really needs to be repaired, reach out to ED at FICM repair.com. Bulletproof Diesel makes a halfshell that fixes the problem, but the money is better spent with Ed as for the same money, he offers a lifetime warranty with much better parts. (bulletproof diesel only offers a 1 year warranty on their FICM)
Your FICM should maintain 47.5 to 48.5 volts KOEO, cranking, and KOER. If at any point it drops below 45 volts the FICM half shell needs to be replaced.
If it really needs to be repaired, reach out to ED at FICM repair.com. Bulletproof Diesel makes a halfshell that fixes the problem, but the money is better spent with Ed as for the same money, he offers a lifetime warranty with much better parts. (bulletproof diesel only offers a 1 year warranty on their FICM)
#10
Howdy Fellow '05 Owner, mine has a July 2005 Build Date.
Your FICM should maintain 47.5 to 48.5 volts KOEO, cranking, and KOER. If at any point it drops below 45 volts the FICM half shell needs to be replaced.
If it really needs to be repaired, reach out to ED at FICM repair.com. Bulletproof Diesel makes a halfshell that fixes the problem, but the money is better spent with Ed as for the same money, he offers a lifetime warranty with much better parts. (bulletproof diesel only offers a 1 year warranty on their FICM)
Your FICM should maintain 47.5 to 48.5 volts KOEO, cranking, and KOER. If at any point it drops below 45 volts the FICM half shell needs to be replaced.
If it really needs to be repaired, reach out to ED at FICM repair.com. Bulletproof Diesel makes a halfshell that fixes the problem, but the money is better spent with Ed as for the same money, he offers a lifetime warranty with much better parts. (bulletproof diesel only offers a 1 year warranty on their FICM)
#11
Newly reworked by ED FICM installed and what a difference! I got the Atlas 40 tune and it is like a total different vehicle cant wait to hook up the rv and give it a go. My next endevour is a coolant filter and then exhaust. I've been eyeing the Diamond turbo back exhaust because its pretty affordable, any thoughts? Is there a better alternative? Ed mentioned MBRP (?) and Magnaflow. My ears are used to cherry bombs on a 350, and flowmasters in a 302! Lol
I just bought a FICM tuner for my truck and loaded up the Atlas 40, I too noticed that the truck is a totally different beast now. Throttle response is noticably better and it's not afraid to scare me (or anyone that rides with me) with how much more power it makes now
If you're buying a coolant filter, don't waste money on the Sinister Coolant filter. It's prone to leaks with clamps they provide. I had to go buy different clamps to keep it from leaking....Do yourself a favor and buy the diesel site kit. It's a much better kit and doesn't leak.
HokieHiVpi recommended the Flo-Pro exhaust to me and for some odd reason it promotes turbo whistle more than any exhaust I've dealt with. It almost (I say almost) sounds like I have an '03 turbo at times. When I mash it, it'll put the fear of God into people with the MEAN growl it makes. I've actually scared people passing them with how loud it gets. It will definitely put a smile on your face
#13
#14
Dfuser coolant filter was a great suggestion, installed easily and for the same price as others it came with 2 extra filters like you mentioned. Thanks!
#15
I'm seeing a 6 or 7 degree delta between EOT and ECT (EOT higher). I drove pretty aggressively early on then set the cruise at 65 on the highway for a good 15 miles and took the readings. All seems to be doing well, looking to tackle the exhaust soon and going to switch over to 5W40 and try the Archoil 9100 on the next oil change. The truck has never started on first try (cranking for 3-5 seconds) unless engine was warm. Always started on second try after a couple of seconds of cranking. Maybe the different weight oil and the Archoil will fix that.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post