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  #46  
Old 10-30-2013, 11:59 AM
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Just an update.
I could push the throttle about 1/2 - 3/4" inch down before you could hear the IVS click(engine off)

And then I did it with the truck running. As soon as the switch clicked, I got an easy 400rpm jump.

I bent the tab so now you just touch the pedal and it clicks. MUCH smoother and easier to drive, ESPECIALLY with the stick

Thanks a bunch
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  #47  
Old 10-30-2013, 12:21 PM
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It's nice when something is an easy fix isn't it? It doesn't happen very often but it is nice when it does.
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  #48  
Old 10-30-2013, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad View Post
Just an update.
I could push the throttle about 1/2 - 3/4" inch down before you could hear the IVS click(engine off)

And then I did it with the truck running. As soon as the switch clicked, I got an easy 400rpm jump.

I bent the tab so now you just touch the pedal and it clicks. MUCH smoother and easier to drive, ESPECIALLY with the stick

Thanks a bunch
Good on ya Brad. I felt the same way when i fixed it on mine. The driveability is SOOOO much better.

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It's nice when something is an easy fix isn't it? It doesn't happen very often but it is nice when it does.
This is very true.
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1997 F-350 CC Dually, 7.3 PSD, E4OD, 6637 Intake, Straight 4" Stainless Exhaust, 3" DP, Bellowed Uppies by Re-Billd, E-Fuel by Re-Billd, Motorcraft 15w-40 with Motorcraft Filter, EDGE Insight CTS, TS Chip, 213k Miles

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  #49  
Old 01-25-2014, 07:41 PM
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Update. . Still running my truck with this mod. So happy. Not 1 single problem in a year !!!!
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  #50  
Old 01-25-2014, 08:43 PM
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Since you updated yours, I'll update mine. SOMETIMES I have a dead pedal(at initial start up), I just have to hit it a couple times and it is fine the rest of the day
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  #51  
Old 01-27-2014, 12:03 PM
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Since you updated yours, I'll update mine. SOMETIMES I have a dead pedal(at initial start up), I just have to hit it a couple times and it is fine the rest of the day
This is pretty much where I am at with mine. I have a wiring issue somewhere between the switch and the harness on the firewall. I used to jiggle the wire until the throttle would work. But, I found out a few months ago that if I let it idle for 30-45 seconds after start-up, it works every time. So, I let it idle...every time. That is the norm for me anyways. I never get in any vehicle and just throw it in drive. That is a bad way to treat a vehicle. Drives me crazy watching others do it! I am going to resolder the wire, but just haven't gotten around to it yet. I got tired of chasing such a frustrating problem.
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  #52  
Old 04-17-2014, 08:50 AM
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How many APP (accelerator pedal position) sensors have you guys went thru since I've posted this ?
I haven't had 1 single problem with this setup. No check engine lights. No stumbling whatsoever. The truck hasn't taken off Wildly on it's own. It's been very reliable.
Also it proved to be a great anti theft device. I left my keys in my bumper at work and one of the guys seen me put them there. (he loves my truck. Always talks to me about it ) anyway while I was out of the yard he texted me saying that it drives nice and blah blah blah. I asked him how far he got and he said he moved it 3 parking spaces. Because he couldn't figure out how to activate the pedal. lol
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  #53  
Old 04-18-2014, 11:13 PM
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How many APP (accelerator pedal position) sensors have you guys went thru since I've posted this ? I haven't had 1 single problem with this setup. No check engine lights. No stumbling whatsoever. The truck hasn't taken off Wildly on it's own. It's been very reliable. Also it proved to be a great anti theft device. I left my keys in my bumper at work and one of the guys seen me put them there. (he loves my truck. Always talks to me about it ) anyway while I was out of the yard he texted me saying that it drives nice and blah blah blah. I asked him how far he got and he said he moved it 3 parking spaces. Because he couldn't figure out how to activate the pedal. lol
I still have the same one I installed last summer with no issues. The driveability is much better with the IVS out if the equation as well.
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1997 F-350 CC Dually, 7.3 PSD, E4OD, 6637 Intake, Straight 4" Stainless Exhaust, 3" DP, Bellowed Uppies by Re-Billd, E-Fuel by Re-Billd, Motorcraft 15w-40 with Motorcraft Filter, EDGE Insight CTS, TS Chip, 213k Miles

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  #54  
Old 04-23-2014, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielT28 View Post
How many APP (accelerator pedal position) sensors have you guys went thru since I've posted this ?
I haven't had 1 single problem with this setup. No check engine lights. No stumbling whatsoever. The truck hasn't taken off Wildly on it's own. It's been very reliable.
Also it proved to be a great anti theft device. I left my keys in my bumper at work and one of the guys seen me put them there. (he loves my truck. Always talks to me about it ) anyway while I was out of the yard he texted me saying that it drives nice and blah blah blah. I asked him how far he got and he said he moved it 3 parking spaces. Because he couldn't figure out how to activate the pedal. lol
Daniel, if I were to cut one of the wires on the IVS and run it through a switch, would it provide the theft prevention that you have?

Since I don't have a throttle problem, I would plan to leave the IVS in place and run the cut IVS wire through a hidden switch and back to the IVS, so that when the switch is open, the IVS would not work and the truck could be started but only idle. If I close the hidden switch, the truck would operate normally. When I park the truck, I would open the switch, which would then allow the truck to only run at idle, thus helping prevent its theft.

Is this correct? If so, would it matter which of the wires to run through the switch?

Thanks!
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  #55  
Old 04-23-2014, 07:47 AM
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^^^^^ If you're gonna cut a wire and put a switch inline, the wire to the starter relay would be a better bet. If you have an automatic, there's a connector under the dash with a jumper block that carries this circuit. You could push the terminals for the two red/blue wires out of that connector, and connect a switch to those terminals.
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  #56  
Old 04-23-2014, 09:22 AM
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You know I'm not sure that I would even mess with cutting and splicing into the IVS. I just wouldn't feel comfortable tellin you to do something like that when I haven't done it at all myself.
I just took mine off the pedal assembly. Left all the wires alone. And just remounted it in a spot within where the wires could reach. It works really good. Throttle is smoother. No CEL ever since I've done it either
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  #57  
Old 07-03-2014, 11:08 AM
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Click the image to open in full size.


This is where I mounted my ivs switch. Works really we'll. no problems


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.
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  #58  
Old 07-03-2014, 11:09 AM
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Pretty we'll hidden. Still no engine codes. No bucks. No complaints at all
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  #59  
Old 07-11-2014, 05:57 PM
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got a question for you gents about this problem that I can't find the answer to anywhere. My truck has been running just fine since I bought it in 09. Last week I took a run down to the Home Depot, all was fine driving down there (only a few miles from the house) but on the way back, as I jumped on the freeway I got a dead spot in the middle of the accelerator pedal throw. If I backed off it worked and if I pushed through it it worked, but obviously I had a real bad jump when I hit the far side of the dead spot. This reoccurred from start up the next time I drove it a few days later, or so that seems how it was happening to me.

So I found this thread, consulted my factory shop manual for testing procedures, and went out and tested both the IVS and the APP sensor. The IVS worked as it is supposed to, on/off with full switched battery power, and the APP sensor had a good 5v vref input and a smooth variable output through the pedal throw on the AP leg. All values were in spec as per the Ford workshop manual including a solid ground leg on the APP connector.

My question is this... I have a 7 year old battery in there that I suspect has gone to sleep. I don't drive the truck daily anymore and it's sitting at 10.2v. I also think it's dragging my other battery (Optima Red top 34) down because that battery is only a couple years old and it is at 11.4 at the moment. In my experience, Optima batteries just don't ever die... I drained one down to like 4v one time and it was sitting for months like that, pulled it out of my old sploder, stuck it in my truck and drove around charging it for a while, good as new. Anyway, does anyone know what the cutoff voltage is for IVS output to the PCM? If I am putting out a low voltage through the IVS into the PCM, could the PCM be thinking that 10v or whatever it may be is too low and cut the APP signal? Damn electronic throttle mumbo-jumbo. Thanks in advance for the help gents! Ol Henry (my truck) and I sure appreciate it!
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  #60  
Old 07-11-2014, 06:17 PM
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Get two new batteries of the exact same type and capacity. Any time you mix batteries, the weak battery will weaken the strong battery. It may or may not have anything to do with your APPS / IVS issue, but you'll have starting problems with batteries of mixed capacity.

As for the electronic throttle "mumbo jumbo", diesels don't have throttles. More specifically, our trucks don't have any way to mechanically control fuel flow. A mechanical accelerator pedal wouldn't do any good, because there'd be nothing to tie it to.
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Old 07-11-2014, 06:17 PM
 
 
 
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