Think your accel pedal position sensors bad? Think again.
#31
Yeah, they do. The IVS is a Cutler Hammer Part # SS22BW32-330Y. It used to be an in-stock part at this site: SS22BW32-330Y Cutler Hammer/Eaton | Buy SS22BW32 330Y | Onlinecomponents.com. I'm not sure if they can still get them (they show that they have 0 in stock) or if you can locate one somewhere else.
Looks like it's in-stock at this site:
http://unlimitedmicro.com/p-939055-ss22bw32-330y.aspx
Just ordered two they have a $50.00 minimum order. Will update once I receive them with pics and more details.
Last edited by GSCPSD; 10-23-2013 at 09:51 PM. Reason: Added info.
#32
DISCONTINUED-OBSOLETE
^^^^UPDATE TO ABOVE POST^^^^
Sorry fellows I received an Email this morning from the linked company above stating "ORDER CANCELED". I gave them a call and was told Cutler Hammer is no longer making this part-(IVS SWITCH) Cutler Hammer Part # SS22BW32-330Y, it is now tagged DISCONTINUED-OBSOLETE and all existing stock has been DEPLETED.
If anyone finds a source for these please let me know mine is going bad and I don't intend to pay the StealerShip $350.00 or more for a new one.
Thanks
Sorry fellows I received an Email this morning from the linked company above stating "ORDER CANCELED". I gave them a call and was told Cutler Hammer is no longer making this part-(IVS SWITCH) Cutler Hammer Part # SS22BW32-330Y, it is now tagged DISCONTINUED-OBSOLETE and all existing stock has been DEPLETED.
If anyone finds a source for these please let me know mine is going bad and I don't intend to pay the StealerShip $350.00 or more for a new one.
Thanks
#33
#34
Is there any type of "accelerator"/"throttle" sensor under the hood of a '97 F250 7.3? Thank you again for your help.
Well that suxs. Time to start fishing the classifieds here and on the other truck forums for a part-out, same with craigslist and car-part.com, and just buy a whole pedal assembly.
#35
Sorry it took me so long to get back with you guys, life has kept me busy the last few days. I am not the owner of the truck, my son is and I am thinking about buying it IF I can get the accelerator problems figured out and solved. The problem is identical to the OPs post but I hate to bypass a safety switch. We have replaced 4 or 5 "TPS" or "APP" sensors, not sure which one this truck has, in the last 12 months so I feel there is another problem some where that is causing them to go out every few months. Your input and ideas would be greatly appreciated. Again I am not trying to hyjack a thread I just thought since the problems SEEM to be identical I could tag along and learn something. Thank you.
#36
Sorry it took me so long to get back with you guys, life has kept me busy the last few days. I am not the owner of the truck, my son is and I am thinking about buying it IF I can get the accelerator problems figured out and solved. The problem is identical to the OPs post but I hate to bypass a safety switch. We have replaced 4 or 5 "TPS" or "APP" sensors, not sure which one this truck has, in the last 12 months so I feel there is another problem some where that is causing them to go out every few months. Your input and ideas would be greatly appreciated. Again I am not trying to hyjack a thread I just thought since the problems SEEM to be identical I could tag along and learn something. Thank you.
What is that extra red wire that looks to be going down to the IVS?
#37
So what happens when you step on the throttle? Nothing at all? Does the CEL come on? Just so we're on the same page, the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)is the top wiring connector (up on the top of the assembly) and the IVS (Idle Validation Switch) is the one on the left side (with the red little boot on it).
What is that extra red wire that looks to be going down to the IVS?
What is that extra red wire that looks to be going down to the IVS?
I would test your wiring going form the IVS to the PCM and to the #3 fuse. I found out my red/orange wire is actually bad between the switch and the bulkhead connector at the firewall....which is why I have to cut/solder to bypass the questionable wiring in the main loom.
#39
The truck I posted the pictures of is '97 F250 with a 7.3 and a manual tranny. The problem is, while driving down the road at any given speed the accelerator will stop functioning and the engine will go to an idle and the check engine light will come on. The accelerator can be depressed 2 to 6 times and the check engine light will go out and the accelerator starts functioning normally again and all is well. There is no rhythm to this action what so ever. Sometimes you can drive the truck without any problems at all and sometimes this problem occurs 2 or 3 times just driving 3 or 4 miles. The TPS has been replaced 4 times in the last 12 months and each time it is replaced the accelerator works fine for a while then the truck starts acting up again. I feel like something else is wrong causing the TPS to keep going bad but I don't have enough knowledge to make an intelligent diagnosis of this problem. Your help/input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you gentlemen.
#40
#41
The truck I posted the pictures of is '97 F250 with a 7.3 and a manual tranny. The problem is, while driving down the road at any given speed the accelerator will stop functioning and the engine will go to an idle and the check engine light will come on. The accelerator can be depressed 2 to 6 times and the check engine light will go out and the accelerator starts functioning normally again and all is well. There is no rhythm to this action what so ever. Sometimes you can drive the truck without any problems at all and sometimes this problem occurs 2 or 3 times just driving 3 or 4 miles. The TPS has been replaced 4 times in the last 12 months and each time it is replaced the accelerator works fine for a while then the truck starts acting up again. I feel like something else is wrong causing the TPS to keep going bad but I don't have enough knowledge to make an intelligent diagnosis of this problem. Your help/input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you gentlemen.
And I think before I would replace the IVS I would figure out what that red wire is and whether it is tied into the wiring for the IVS or not. If it is, I would start the troubleshooting process right there.
#42
I think the TPS is fine and what you need is to replace the IVS. The IVS is that lower switch with the little red boot on it. If the throttle is going unresponsive and the CEL is coming on, I think the IVS signal is dropping out which essentially makes the PCM ignore the input from the TPS.
And I think before I would replace the IVS I would figure out what that red wire is and whether it is tied into the wiring for the IVS or not. If it is, I would start the troubleshooting process right there.
with the key off, you should check resistance to ground for all 5 wires (2 in the IVS connector and 3 in the TPS connector). then turn the key to on, and check voltages for all wires. i'll go find the link to the manual pages and post them back here to tell you what each value should be. if you have an intermittent short to ground on one of those wires, it would definitely set a CEL and probably cause the throttle drop-out you're seeing.
here you go: http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...a/sia00038.htm
the first two tables can be checked just with the sensors unplugged. the 3rd one down requires unplugging the PCM and checking pins, which is a pain.
also, of note, it says anything less than 1000 ohms is a short to ground for Vref. I was looking into some wiring/sensor issues recently and found that my Vref resistance to ground (with key off) was only ~500ohms. I thought this was maybe my problem, but then found it to be the case at all Vref locations in my truck AND on all 3 PCMs that I checked. so if you find something less than 1000 ohms but more than 500 ohms on the Vref lines, that's probably not the problem...
#43
#44
Yes it could. The issue that causes a touchy throttle is that the TPS starts to move before the IVS clicks so when the pedal actually becomes "active" so to speak the TPS is already calling for fueling. If you get down there and adjust the little metal tab so it allows the IVS to "click" as soon as the pedal starts to move (but not before or it will set the CEL) it will really smooth out the throttle and you'll be able to "feather" it a lot better.