Locking hub position for 1999 7.3L 4-WD.
#1
Locking hub position for 1999 7.3L 4-WD.
I have a 1999 Super Duty. It now has 175M miles and seems to be running like new. Never had a major problem...just the usual mntc that comes with a lot of off pavement driving and hauling around a camper or trailer full of horses. However, I hear a clicking sound when turning sharp. I jacked it up today and checked the universal joints. As far as I can tell...they all still are tight and look good when rotating. I thought maybe one of the hubs was sticking so I rotated the drivers side wheel...and the front driveline turned. The vehicle is equipped with automatic hubs..but you can turn them to the "locked" position. All the writing is worn off the hub housing so I no longer know which is the "locked" position and which is the automatic position. I turned the drivers wheel hub the other way from where it was set and spun the wheel and the driveline didn't spin..which I assume means it is not in the auto position....and neither did the universal on that side. So...I jacked up the passenger side wheel and spun the wheel and the drive line didn't turn...but the universal joint on that side did. So...I turned the hub on the passengers side to it's other position and spun the wheel...and the driveline still didn't spin and the universal continued to spin with the wheel? Is there anyone out there who can tell me what the auto position is on the drivers and passengers side (clockwise/counterclockwise) and could explain what I am supposed to see when a hub is locked/or unlocked when I spin the wheel? I haven't driven it yet to see if the clicking goes away now that the drivers side hub is turned. Will post later. Thanks.
#2
On my stock (actually they are replacement but they are FORD OEM) 4x4 hubs LEFT IS LOOSE - Right locks them in. THat is when facing them, turning to the right is locking hubs in for 4x4. On the driver side that is towards the rear of the car, on the passenger side towards the front.
Reverse for "free wheeling" .
Look at an ebay auction for a STOCK OEM SET for your model and options, they will most likely have the painted markers and labeled. Mine do not have any paint on them, I just keep it in mind. I always back up after disengaging hubs, for at least 10-15 feet and then make sure that 4x4 is not engaged by spinning the tires (rears only if they disengaged) on some dirt/sand/gravel. Sometimes it sticks, and I have to back up a few feet again.
When I get around to I I am just going to buy the WARN Premium or MILE MARKER Stainless hubs. Easy install, not expensive, I already have 4x4 MANUAL shifter on the floor so why the heck not. The plastic factory ones are just fine however, I use mine alot on the sand and plowing, dirt roads, etc. I do have 4:10 gears which is another advantage!
JC
Reverse for "free wheeling" .
Look at an ebay auction for a STOCK OEM SET for your model and options, they will most likely have the painted markers and labeled. Mine do not have any paint on them, I just keep it in mind. I always back up after disengaging hubs, for at least 10-15 feet and then make sure that 4x4 is not engaged by spinning the tires (rears only if they disengaged) on some dirt/sand/gravel. Sometimes it sticks, and I have to back up a few feet again.
When I get around to I I am just going to buy the WARN Premium or MILE MARKER Stainless hubs. Easy install, not expensive, I already have 4x4 MANUAL shifter on the floor so why the heck not. The plastic factory ones are just fine however, I use mine alot on the sand and plowing, dirt roads, etc. I do have 4:10 gears which is another advantage!
JC
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