I am starting a new thread now for my 89f250 which I started up todayfor the first time in a few weeks after finishing the smf conversion. the truck fired up first tryand I headed to the gas station to fill up and try to get some new fuel in the tank. there was alittle sputtering accompanied by a low power condition which kind of blew itself out and got better after a minute or so. This has happened many times in the past especially after the truck has sat for a while for repairs. It has always worked itself out and I have attributed it to an old injection pump that needs to be replaced...eventually. when I got to the station I had to line up behind another rig so I cut the engine, popped the hood tocheck fluids. A couple minutes later the guy in front was done so I hopped back in and started it up. I noticed right away that it took a couple seconds longer cranking to fireup than before but it did fire up. Again this is nothing new the truck has had this problem in the past and I have attributed it to the tired but still functioning injector pump. I normally start the truck at least 15 times throughout a normal work day. Today the long cranking syndrome got worse and worse throughout the day. At 3:15 pm it finally just wouldnt start, came close once or twice but didn't get there. I cranked in 5 second intervals untill the starter sounded like it was getting slower. I got out , looked under the hood, and felt the injector pump. It felt hot, hotter than any part of the engine. I had to pay $75 to have it towed back to my house where it now sits. I am going to hook it up to a charger tonight and check in the morning to see if I fried my starter in the process. Here is what I think I have ruled out:

Glow plugs; they work fine the truck started first try after sitting for weeks and at 3:15 it was 95 F and the truck had only been off for 45min it was totally warm.

Loss of prime due to air intrusion: Again the truck started up after sitting for weeks. if it didnt lose prime from that? also did new return line kit last fall when I did new gps and injectors

weak Batteries : started up first try cold after weeks batteries are fine

weak starter: the starter was new in Jan. I have worn out a few of them over the years and I am familiar with how they sound when they are new and when they are done this one was cranking fast and hard when I first tried it at 3:15 by the time I gave up it was getting slower.

So I guess I'm here to ask if anybody else thinks this sounds like a bad injection pump or what else and maybe someone could post a link to their favorite thread outlining the process of rr injection pump. Ive read a couple good ones over the years but don't remember whose they were. I never bookmark things like I should.
Thanks a lot in advance
E

 

i bet once you charge up those batteries, it'll start right up cause its cold. you've heard us all say a hundred times, pour lukewarm water over the IP when it acts up like that, and if that solves it, you know the IP is about done.

i don't know how much time you spent cranking on it, but if it wasn't excessive, i would suggest you check your charging system - its a possibility since your trouble got worse throughout the day

but it sounds likely that you do need an IP. the replacement is pretty straightforward. the one thing people screw up is that you SHOULD NOT remove the gear housing from the engine. instead, you SHOULD remove the gear from the pump by pulling the little cover off the front of the gear housing, then remove the 3, 5/16 12-pt bolts holding the gear to the IP. some of us have special wrenches for getting the IP mounting nuts, others can reach with standard wrenches.
simply disconnect all lines, slide the IP rearward out of its gear housing, then up and out. i've done it in a van body, so a pickup must be easy
when you install the new one, line up the marks on the top center where it mates to the gear housing, that'll put the timing somewhere close, then dial it in with the proper timing equipment if you have it, which i suspect you don't. its usually pretty close with the marks lined up

 

yes you were right it started right up. alternator charging at about 14 volts. starter sounded great so it looks like no problem there. truck sounded pretty good with the cold idle solenoid up but when it dropped the idle was down around around 500 sounding weak. I think it is usually 700 or better. I don't feel too confident to take the truck out and use it for work on mon. can't do anything tomorrow cause I'm goin campin for Americas Bday. Hope eveyone on here has a happy 4th.

 

ok, sounds like nothing else is the problem then, you probably just cranked on it enough to wear the batteries down.

if you need to, you can probably limp around a bit, just be sure not to shut down when you plan to fire back up quickly. i don't know what your normal day looks like, but 15 start/stop cycles suggests you're either running back and forth to different places every half hour, or you're frequently running errands/deliveries, in which case you can just leave it running for the short stops. they don't burn all that much fuel at idle.

in my opinion, the ideal thing to do would be to find a spare IP at the junkyard, have it rebuilt while you can still limp around in your truck as is, then swap them when you get it back from the rebuilder. otherwise you may be out of a truck for 1-2 weeks

 

I finished the ip swap a week ago and its working great. I bought the rebuilt ip from oregon fuel injection for $495 and the truck runs better than it ever has.I started it every morning tues thru fri and it seemed to start up quick. I took it camping fri and sat nite and didnt start it from about 1:30pm fri till 12:00 pm sun and when I tried it sun it took a lot of cranking b4 it started as if it needed 2 get fuel up to the injectors ( loss of prime). Once I got it going it ran fine and started up quick for the rest of the day. today (mon) I started it at 8:00 am and it took a full 6-7 seconds to fire up not quite as long as sun, but again ran fine for the rest of the day. When I have experienced air intrusion b4, the truck would fire for a second, then die and need excessive cranking afterward. this is different because once it fires up, its great, but it needs to crank too long for that first start. I havent found evidence of fuel leakage I'm wondering where I should look for this loss of prime in the system

 

oregon fuel injection has done my idi, my dads old idi and his cummins. and we live in cali... lol

good choice.

 

my truck takes a couple seconds longer to start if its been sitting overnight, kinda thought it was normal...

 

i had mine redone by a shop in the seattle area, and its worse than the old pump i took off with 100k on it. start ups used to be about 2 seconds of cranking when cold, now 6-7. its about the same hot unless i'm running alternative fuels, then it only takes about 2 seconds hot. the old IP would fire up in about 1 second hot.

also, carry a couple bottles of the diesel fuel additive of your choice, such as diesel kleen. after a few weeks, your IP will need a bottle, as it'll probably start acting up on you. mine did, and i hear thats normal. when it acted up, it would stall out on the road, usually right after turning from one road onto another, and require a minute or so of sitting plus about 20 seconds of cranking before coming back to life. after a few episodes of treating this with diesel kleen, the problem went away and hasn't returned.

 

I've experienced the excessive crank after changing IP's also. I think it is the timing of the IP. Must people do not have the proper timing equipment and just move it a little advanced

 

i would run a quick glow plug test first.

 

well when I started it this morning it fired up after only 3-4 seconds whch is pretty respectable so maybe this is one of those things that just "works itself out" tll it comes back anyway. the real test will be on a mon morning when the truck has sat for acouple of days. the glow plugs are fine and the timing seems pretty good too. the truck roars with power and no smoke to speak of.

 

I think my time has also come! I can't tell you everything that I've done to get fuel to my injectors, but here are a few; by passed mechanical with electric fuel pump, installed clear vynal lines & manual shutoff between fuel filter & IP, fuel flow at fuel filter outlet is about a cup/10 sec, FSS clicks on & off, removed plunger from FSS, cracked fuel line at injector (gets a little fuel & air bubbles out), with the FSS top off I cranked the engine (few air bubles& little fuel flow in the open chamber). Tomorrow I'm getting a jug of Sea Foam and try that procedure. If all that fails, is there a sure fire way of determining if the IP is bad? This 1994 F350 IDI Turbo 4x4 E4OD has been ultra reliable up to this point, but the other day it quit on my way to HomeDepot, AAA got me back home and I havn't been able to figure out whats wrong. Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

If the FSS is clicking when you apply 12V to it and you are getting fuel into the IP, but not out of the IP, then the IP is done. Time for a new one.

 

I know I probably need to replace the IP & injectors because this truck has 144K on it and I think all is original, but it is in my brother's yard & I would like to get it into my yard at the other end of the block before I tear into it. I'm 72+, live in FL, and this heat/humidity just tears me up, so I only work on this a few hours a day. I'm not sure what the truck weighs, about 7,500# probably, and I would like to get it place under it's own steam before I tear into it. The Sea Foam solution would tell me if anything were clogging the IP, but it's probably not that, I've just gotta try it before disassembling the truck in my bro's yard. Hope his wife is patient, 'cuz I don't work fast!! Retired, ya know!!

 

Well, I tried the Sea Foam soak, didn't help, so I bought a Pensecola rebuild and am in the process of putting it in. I also bought Motorcraft glow plugs. Do you think I can clean the injectors, ie. soak them in laquer thinner & reassemble? Finally got the truck into my own backyard so now I'm replacing the fuel & glow plug systems.