There are 3 vehicles in my life that I love.....My 1968 Formula S Barracuda with a built 416 stroker motor, my 2012 Jeep Wrangler 2 dr daily driver running on 35's and my beloved 1996 F250 HD 4x4 plow truck that I aquired in a trade 5 years ago. I don't need a plow truck but I do need a reg cab 8' box truck to keep me spiritually fullfilled....just kidding but I need a truck like this. I have owned a few ford trucks. 89 reg cab SB 5spd 302 4x4 that I beat up good in my 20's, 1985 F150 2wd reg cab long box winter beater (as I went through few GT mustangs new and used) and traded in my 2002 GT Mustang for a new 2003 supercab FX4 F150. It was my last new truck.

With this 96 OBS I am trying to sort out a break in my EGR tube that makes my truck sound like hell....I got a quote of $1300 to fix it right.....no way Jose....I will spend $500 to $750 to make is sound good. Between my wife and I we have 8 vehicles due to my sickness but please help me find a way to keep this one. I truely love her but hate that exhaust leak sound.

 

I'd be curious to hear an answer as well as I think mine is leaking in the same spot...

 

FWIW the EGR tube is the one going from the valve near the throttlebody to the front of the passenger side exhaust manifold, any other tubes around the side or back of the motor are not part of the EGR system that is the thermactor(air injection) system for the cats.

So are you still talking about the EGR tube or one of the AIR tubes? I can't see the EGR tube costing that much to replace.. it's right there on the front of the motor and aside from corroded connectors it's a 5 minute job. The AIR tubes on the other hand could be a real challenge just to get at, but if the stock cats are gone then all this plumbing can be removed and the spots where it connects to the exhaust plugged, so this will be a very easy and cheap fix.

 

Like Paul said, the EGR tube on your 5.8L engine runs from the passenger side exhaust manifold to the EGR valve mounted on the throttle body:


Rock Auto usually sells them for ~$40 USD.

 

That is the tube. It broke off right near the manifold at the front of the passenger side. (Thank you for the great pictures) I tried and tried to get it out but it is seized in there and kind of difficult to get to. I want to just get it threaded out of there so I can put a plug in it and then block off the other end at the manifold. If I could just replace the tube and make it right I would. The shop said to make it right they want $1300. For that price I would rather do headers and new exhaust. I might take it to another shop and have them take a look at it. I am more time constrained than anything working 60+ hours a week and having a 7 year old future hockey star taking up my remaining time. Thanks again.

 

I think there may be a couple broken manifold bolts as well from what the last shop told me....I am not sure if they were broken prior to my request to fix or broke on my request to fix the EGR tube...

 

I had the same problem and bought the tube from Local Ford Dealer gouger for about $110 bucks and installed it myself after many soaks with penetration fluid.
My broken manifold bolts were replaced when I had my Ford Racing shorty headers installed.
That price you were quoted sounds way Off.

CS45

 

I agree the quote sounded way off. How was the shorty header install experience. Did you do it yourself with the engine still installed?

 

IIRC the adapter stays in the manifold. The EGR tube threads onto it. Heat and PB Blaster are your friend.

 

$450 or less for passenger manifold change and new/used takeoff muffler from another truck. They are using a 91 manifold so no air injection will be hooked up. No big deal to me.

Done in last 1000 miles
new oil pan
front brake lines
rear brake lines
rear axle seals
rear brake cylinder
starter solenoid
plow solenoid
plow painted, new edge markers, new hydraulic lines

Next
exhaust
body (rear wheel arches, surface rust starting passenger door and bottom passenger fender.
I am really confused why the drivers side of this truck is so much better than the passenger side???
Need to weld the short tube back on the drivers side of the tailgate hinge. I think it was bolted on and rotted off. Odd as the tailgate seems to be pretty much rust free and works well otherwise. It is latched in place but doesn't hinge on the driver's side bottom.
Add a leaf needs to be added to front to keep off bumpstops with plow on.
Clean up interior. It's an XLT with power windows and such and everything including heat and AC seems to work well. The cruise even works but I never did get the recall work done.

How long do I have to wait to post pics? I am excited about fixing up this truck. I have a $5000 budget as I just sold another SUV we didn't need anymore. If you had a 96 F250 HD 4X4 what would you do?

 

You cannot post pics directly into this forum as far as I know. You can place the pics in your gallery or some other hosting site such as Photobucket or SuperMotors. Once the pics are uploaded use the forum tags to point your thread to the photo(s).

Some helpful links:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-tutorial.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-threads.html

 

I just wanted to give a bit of an update. I had negotiated $450 for the passenger manifold replacement and a new/take off muffler even though I knew the driver's side was leaking a bit too. After these were replaced it was quieter but the driver's side manifold was still leaking. We worked out a deal of $250 to replace that manifold. So $700 takes care of both manifolds and a new muffler. I think that is pretty good. Now I had do some plowing Saturday so I told them I would bring it back. I got about 8 miles up the road and it is coughing a bit and won't go over 55mph. I stop and the tail pipe is smoking as it is touching my spare. The tail pipe shouldn't be that hot in my experience. Now I think I understand what is going on. I believe the cat is plugged which caused the manifolds to start leaking (it has to go somewhere). I am going to take that out of the equation and see what happens.

 

Thanks for the update!

 

http://I ended up just getting the entire exhaust replaced. It cost me $950 total. The truck was still running terrible. Spitting, popping and sputtering I ended up getting my first ticket in almost 10 years because I rolled through a yellow light trying to maintain my momentum making a right turn and "skippy the supercop" as he is known around here said it was red. I think this truck has it in for me right now. I barely made it the 8 miles home. It was running so bad so I dropped it off at anther shop and asked for plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I almost wondered if the place doing my exhaust work was screwing with me because it ran pretty good when I dropped it off. He offered that he could do "tune up" work on the side as his shop wasn't certified to do so. The new shop got two plugs into it breaking both. I told them to stop and just change everything but the last 6 plugs and I will decide what to do. They are still trying to get the second plug out today. I am guessing this latest work will set me back a couple more hundred so I am up to about $1500 (more if you count the ticket) of my $5000 budget and still don't have the truck running right.

I will continue to document my progress on getting my favorite truck going or maybe just one man's slow progress to insanity. I think I got a picture added.

 

Long winded update.....Well they did get both plugs out and put the new cap, wires and rotor on. They fired it up and it made some very bad noises. I didn't get upset and we started to talk about options. $1375 to take the heads off and have a machine shop take out the plugs, deck the heads and reinstall. (no the bottom end is likely shot) used engine 113K miles running well with a 90 day warranty for $1600. Nope. I am not paying this much for a ? engine. Next option was a reman engine with 5 yr 100K warranty for $2700 installed. I will think about it. I am still in my $5-5500 budget and new motor is less worries but can I just grab the 113K mile motor and put it in this spring? (I have replaced other motors, have the tools and cherry picker....but don't want to wait for my garage to get > freezing. I call them back to ask a couple ? and they say they talked it over and can't be sure they didn't do this trying to dig the plug out....how about you buy the parts and we supply the labor $1700 reman motor with warranty installed?....UMM OK. What a great shop. They did no wrong in my opinion. The old motor had about 190K miles anyway. $1700 to replace YES. Now I am up to $2800 ($2700 left) with new solenoids, door pins, exhaust front to back and engine. Now can I get the body done for $2700? I will have to put some aside for a new trans and interior but am getting close to a great reliable 1996 F250 HD for my $5500 budget.