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  #31  
Old 07-10-2013, 10:31 PM
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Have you tried dielectric grease? I have been going thru my grounds as well and globing a dab of dielectric on then. I did find a comparable grease at Tacoma Screw. Forget the name. But just ask. Came in a large tube. Having a truck that's ten years younger than me all the wiring is suspect.
 
  #32  
Old 07-11-2013, 12:50 AM
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Carb removal, rebuild, install should be about 1.5-2 hour job, unless you want to hand polish the thing.

If you're going to rebuild a Carter AFB (Edelbrock) then spend the couple extra on a Marine accelerator pump, as this is a sealed unit and better.

I'll give you my old battery cables as I'm putting in 00 ga battery cables and I believe you can use "corning oil" in place of Dielectric grease.
 
  #33  
Old 07-11-2013, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by joewelds
Have you tried dielectric grease? I have been going thru my grounds as well and globing a dab of dielectric on then. I did find a comparable grease at Tacoma Screw. Forget the name. But just ask. Came in a large tube. Having a truck that's ten years younger than me all the wiring is suspect.
I have not. I might have a little laying around somewhere. If not I'll just remove it and clean everything.
Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
Carb removal, rebuild, install should be about 1.5-2 hour job, unless you want to hand polish the thing.

If you're going to rebuild a Carter AFB (Edelbrock) then spend the couple extra on a Marine accelerator pump, as this is a sealed unit and better.

I'll give you my old battery cables as I'm putting in 00 ga battery cables and I believe you can use "corning oil" in place of Dielectric grease.
Thanks for the tip and the offer. I don't need cables though since mine are all fairly new. It's just the ground is connected to cast iron and has always had a bit of a problem with this. I heard baking soda works too for a battery, maybe it would work on the ground?
 
  #34  
Old 07-11-2013, 02:37 AM
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Baking Soda/water mix or Coca Cola will clean it off. Clean it, rinse with water (distilled if possible), coat it with Dielectric or something comparable and I would suggest super glueing a couple pennies about a 1/4 to each side of the connection and one by each battery post.

The reason for the pennies is that copper acts like a magnet to the electolisis buildup and it will attract it away from the less conductive/stronger components, just check to make sure they are still there every once in a while as it will completely dissolve the penny over time, don't put the penny by the Positive post between the post and anything it can ground out on.

Should be about the cheapest way (I can think of) to solve your problem.
 
  #35  
Old 07-11-2013, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
Baking Soda/water mix or Coca Cola will clean it off. Clean it, rinse with water (distilled if possible), coat it with Dielectric or something comparable and I would suggest super glueing a couple pennies about a 1/4 to each side of the connection and one by each battery post.

The reason for the pennies is that copper acts like a magnet to the electolisis buildup and it will attract it away from the less conductive/stronger components, just check to make sure they are still there every once in a while as it will completely dissolve the penny over time, don't put the penny by the Positive post between the post and anything it can ground out on.

Should be about the cheapest way (I can think of) to solve your problem.
Hmm that's interesting. I've got a ton of pennies, might as well try it some time. The battery doesn't really get corroded anymore after changing the wires. Now it's just that darn ground under the alternator. If there is room I'll look at gluing a penny to it.
 
  #36  
Old 07-11-2013, 02:51 AM
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You have a 400 with a high mount alternator and the ground should be connected to the lower left corner of the left head (looking at motor from front which is incorrect orientation from a mechanical standpoint).

My point is, you could put at least 20 pennies in the available space.

Putting them on the battery is just a precautionary measure to prevent it from becoming an issue.
 
  #37  
Old 07-11-2013, 02:56 AM
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Hmmm I'll have to look into and give that penny trick a try. Never heard of that before but don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. They'd have to be pre 82 pennies though. Post 82 are only coated in copper.
 
  #38  
Old 07-11-2013, 03:02 AM
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Even the newer ones work, they just only work until the coating is gone.

And if you use the older ones then you won't have to clean any left over penny piece off as it eats them 100%

Brute, how's the new crew cab dually coming? Need anything for it?
 
  #39  
Old 07-11-2013, 03:31 AM
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I'll have to try it. I'm not sure if the ground is mounted to the head, It looks like it's on the alternator bracket. I'll have to get a better look at it tomorrow. So about 2 pennies stacked in that area? I could manage that somehow. What about on the battery?
 
  #40  
Old 07-11-2013, 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
Brute, how's the new crew cab dually coming? Need anything for it?
Yeah the State to get off my **** with it's rules so I can get a title and registration. The guy I bought it from didn't have title, the guy he bought it from got it from the person that did but never bothered to put it in his name. Sooooo, I'm left tracking down the person the State thinks still owns it, getting a notarized release of interest, then a state patrol inspection before I can get a title and registration. This S(&* shouldn't be that hard, nobody has reported it stolen, I have it, and a bill of sale. Clearly I own it, it's a complete truck with complete vin tags and road worthy.

I know I know, you mean parts. Only a few I'm really after. I need at least 2 more dually wheels and tires, it only came with 4. And some tailgate and tail light stuff, it didn't come with either. I put some 87 up tail lights in it, they work fine. And have a louvered 5th wheel tailgate I think will work great and match the look I'm going for but I need one more of the latch parts that attach to the bed. 80-86 is different then 87 up, hmmm wonder if it's the same as 73-79. It's a vertical bar attached with 2 tapered bolts, 87 up is a pin just like a door pin.

Other then that it's all good, of course there is lots of stuff I could use, ie seats. I actually need good front seats for 2 of my trucks. I like the newer bucket seats with the seat belt built into the seat back. So keeping an eye out for a good deal on a set I can make work. On the 86 I want to keep a real 80s thing going and it has some aftermarket over plush captains chair type seats from a factory outfitter and only the drivers is messed up, so I think I'll fix it. I'll have to snap a pic when I get the interior a little more cleaned up but don't really want to put anything into it until I get the title BS dealt with.

I got it running and know it's a solid truck, that is all I need to do for now to know it's worth dealing with the State over the title BS. Course this all changes if I can't sell the 86 for decent money cause of the title issues. I like it but for me I'd have to convert it to 4wd and diesel to make it a keeper. I really only bought the truck($300) cause I wanted the rear axle(10.25) and maybe the engine (460 with 93k) and the rest of the truck was a free bonus. But damn it's too nice to part out, it'd be such a waste. It's a nice truck I'd like to put it up for sale for a fair but high price to get an owner that will appreciate it and I'll hang onto it until I find hat person. But all that falls apart if I can't get the BS with the State worked out.

 
  #41  
Old 07-11-2013, 04:07 AM
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I have those BMW buckets, lol.

Snap a photo of the tailgate part if you you get a chance, on here or text it. There's a great yard by my place but my cash is tied up in order to float costs on parts or it would be quite a drive for you. NWAutoRecyclers they have an inventory of vehicles with photos on their site but actually update Craigslist more often.
 
  #42  
Old 07-11-2013, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
I have those BMW buckets, lol.
Yeah I remember you mentioning those. I don't think they would work out well for me and I don't see paying much for them.

What I'd like to find is a great deal on a full set(all 3 rows) of leather seats out of something like a Tahoe/Yukon that had the second and third row buckets. But like you my cash is tied up and I don't see finding a deal I can afford real soon.

Edit, hmmmm these look goooood and comfy
 
  #43  
Old 07-11-2013, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by oddfordjunkie
Snap a photo of the tailgate part if you you get a chance .....
I found these pics online;

First is just like what I have, I have one side.




Second is something I came across that might actually work better with the tailgate I'm using.
 
  #44  
Old 07-11-2013, 01:46 PM
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That first photo looks like a tailgate part from a 88 Ranger.

Sean
 
  #45  
Old 07-11-2013, 04:56 PM
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Those seats do look comfy.

Those tailgate parts are completely different than 73-79, the older trucks use a square latch peg that looks like a service box or aftermarket tool box latch.
 


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