Hi Len - everything is normal in your video. The fast idle cam is in the proper position. The fast idle speed screw is pressed against the lower step of the fast idle cam, meaning the fast idle cam is engaged. The fast idle cam will not move as you open the throttle so long as the choke plate above stays at the same position. Meaning, you should NOT expect it to drop under the conditions shown in your video.

As the choke thermostat heats up and unwinds, the choke plate opens. As the choke plate opens, the fast idle cam rotates clockwise if the throttle is open (which frees the fast idle cam from underneath the fast idle speed screw). In other words, with the throttle back as shown in your video, the fast idle cam will not drop unless you physically push the choke plate open.

Once the choke opens and the fast idle cam has rotated far enough, it clears the fast idle speed screw completely, at which point the carburetor returns to curb idle (that's the horizontal screw in the same picture).

 

FMC Thanks for the input. Hey i just got my NEW automatic choke housing in the one with the coil spring. Remember i figured my old one was maybe weak so i am replacing it.

Here is the thing , the new round housings as NO marks on it whatsoever so I ahve to make my own mark somewhere on it so i have a point of reference with the notched marks on the carb housing. Here is a pic of my OLD plastic choke cap.


If i line up with the same mark on the OLD choke, when i put the new cap one on they are way off the grid on the other notches. (That may confirm my theory that that coil spring was loose it may have been marked according to the condition of the old coil spring cap). But now with my new cap seems i need to make a mark in a totally different place.

Is there a point of reference where i should put that adjustment mark or does it matter??

Len

 

Just rotate the new cap until right where the choke plate closes completely, then give it another 15 to 20 degrees to add a little tension.