'06 FX$ 5.4 90K plug change
I've read all the posts
Hints for removing COILS (do they just pull straight off) ???
going to get the Lisle Tool
going to run some Seafoam
maybe some Chevron Premium
recommendations on de-Carbonizing additive ?
who likes what replacement Plug
Motorcraft, Champion, Autolite ?????

 

Motorcraft DG515 plugs
Lisle tool
Kroil
Use a 3/8" impact tool (i.e. 12V drill/impact)

 

isn't that the P/N for the COP ?
I think the PLUG P/N is SP515 ??

 

Excuse me. Actually that p/n was a mixture.
Plug - SP515
COP - DG511

 

OK...Thank You......

 

Further information, particularly if you by Motorcraft COP's in the aftermarkt, make sure they all have the same engineering number etched on the top, 3L3E-12A366-CA. I have a received a mixture and had periodic problems since (until I put the originals back in). I believe they all came in boxes labeled DG511, but in reality I had some DG508E parts mixed in. Those were for the 5.4L 2V engine. Work fine for a while, but then misfires emerge. In process of rectifying with the supplier.

 

Tooldad,
I just changed the plugs on my F150 and need to do the wife's 2007 Expy.
I broke 2 in the F150 and I was being very patient and working back and forth. I didn't use my pneumatic impact because the Ford TSB said not to, but I have heard of other guys using it with success.

Were you successful using the impact?
I can see the argument for and against using it. I'll do just whatever works for others.

 

I did not use it because I was apprehensive about it. However, since then, I have read enough posts, and had some other impact wrench successes, that I am confident that I should have used it and likely would have prevented breaking 7 of 8 plugs. Thus, my recommendation.

 

Ok, I'm thinking of trying it then. I only broke 2. I got cocky after all 4 on the passenger side came out pretty nicely. Then the 1st 2 on the driver side broke. I used the extraction tool and one of them I extracted looked completely dry on the lower end shield. So I don't think any go go juice made it down there.

So I cracked the back 2 a little more and sprayed more juice in them to make sure the lower shield saw some juice. I let them sit while I extracted the other 2 broke one. I went real easy on the back 2 and they came out.

I'll try setting the impact at the lowest setting and go forward a bit then reverse a bit. Then see what happens.

 

When I decided it was time to change the plugs (2006 Mark LT 4x2, 5.4, 35,000 miles) with the Motorcraft SP 515’s. Although I knew about the carbon build-up/plug removal issue, I decided not to change the plugs until there was a replacement plug that I was comfortable with…meaning I knew it was a good quality plug in terms of component design and construction. Although I did follow the most recent TSB, I also relied on my experience back in the 1970’s when aluminum heads & intake manifolds were just entering the street scene and never-seize did not exist. Here are the exceptions to the TSB that I did…
1. I ran Lucas fuel injection cleaner, mixed at 3 times their recommendation in 1 full tank of gasoline. Purpose…if I was lucky, it would dissolve or loosen any carbon buildup (although many do a real fuel injection cleaning also- and it is probably a best practice to do if you have more than 45-50,000 miles on the plugs)
2. Although I am a fan of PB Blaster, I used a product called ChemSearch “Yield”. The issue I have with using carb cleaner is the lack of lubrication…..in the old days of removing steel plugs from aluminum heads, we use to mix up acetone & ATF…or of we needed more lubrication, kerosene & ATF, “Yield” provides this lubrication- much better IMHO than even PB Blaster.
3. Yes, I put anti-seize on the plug threads (I know the TSB says not to)
4. Of course…a lot of patience, I really doubt if I ever put more than 20-25 lbs of force during removal (purposefully)
The end result, only one plug even “squeaked” coming out (but it basically unscrewed like a regular plug- literally). Plug #4 was initially a little stubborn, but after the second try, then waiting about 30 minutes, it came out with very little effort…just kept wiggling the plugs (tightening/loosening) by 1/8th or even less of a turn- and they all came out without a single one breaking or any issue really. Another technique that can definitely be used is to loosen the plugs about 1/8 to ¼ of a turn, start the engine for about 1 minute- this allows the flame to travel up around the plug to burn off the carbon, let cool, then remove with the process I previously described.
As far as using an air ratchet, I can understand the theory of “shocking” the carbon loose, but I have also seen and experienced in my younger days some real disasters.
Actual working time: 2 hours…..including washing my hands, total time was 5 hours.
FYI- Why I choose Motorcraft.
In the 1970’s I ran (like many) Champion’s in just about everything (even had the gold palladiums), but stopped in the early 1980’s when they changed their copper-core design and the resulting quality problems that IMHO still exist today. Since then I have run Splitfire (non-platinum) in my old world (1960’s) cars, Bosch in my late 1990’s vehicles (both because the cylinder head design really prefers these types of plugs), but I really had hesitation because of the construction/component quality of the non-Motorcraft plugs and really questioned the durability in this application about the Motorcraft SP508 or SP 509’s which are single platinum. Given the types of loads and burn/flame promulgation rates in the chambers, I really had doubts about the style of the plug with single platinum having the ability to “survive” as long as they engineers said. What do ya know…the SP 515’s are double platinum.

 

Beechkid,
Thanks for the advice. I too did a very similar process to yours in taking time and working back and forth. I bet on the last 2 that I went back and forth 15 times just to go 1/2 turn. I think it would've broke if I hadn't done that. You can just almost feel it when it is not going well.

I'll try the "yield" stuff you talk about. Sounds like good stuff. I also did run Seafoam cleaner through the tank. I'll do it on the wife's Expy a couple times before tackling those plugs and try the "yeild" stuff.

I might try cracking the plugs and starting it up. I did get the motor hot before starting work but things cool down by the time you get to cracking plugs. Heating it back up and hoping to flush carbon from the sleeve sounds like it shoud work.

 

I recently changed my plugs on my '04 at 102K. I looked at all the You Tube videos and deciced to go with the 2011 for TSB version and got all 8 out with no breakage. I did have the second plug on the drivers side spin inside the threads but all came out. I too put anti seaze on the threads and the part that goes in the cylinder. I used the Motorcraft SP-515's because I got 102K out of the originals so I figured that Ford had it right. I did have a problem with a stutter around 50 mph and 1500 rpm with a load. I readjusted the coil packs and all is well. Tooldad, if you need the Lisle tool, PM me because I bought it and did not need it and will make a deal for you.

DR

 

dakotarider, I actually have a brand new one plus a replacement threaded rod. HOPE I am good for a while. Thanks.

 

Yep, another set of FORD shielded long plug questions. Read most of TSB and such and understand the techiques. Are there any new twists :-o to the job? I like the light impact tool idea, thats new, but does it remove the feel of a hand tool? I run Marvel Mystery oil in my gas almost continuiously. I hope that helps not hinders this long put off surgery. I have also heard the acetone and ATF thing many years ago, being better loosener than anything on the market. Hope I can find this yield product. The coil work scares me. I have heard they are fragile in general, and usually start misbehaving shortly after the plug change. Any tips at all appreciated. What the consenses... do it Hot or Cold? I have the extractor tool handy.

 

Long note, and a lot of , but I hope helps a few. Mr. Joe's recipe in the next note is the key I was looking for in all the BS that is out there on this job. His methods make perfect sense. Too late for me, but after my trials, I know his techniques would have worked.

FORD Shielded Plug removal tips for the uncertified hobbyist. My first and last plug change on a FORD Truck. Mine a 2006, F-150, 5.4,4x4 with 103K miles. This job is not for a retired senior citizen! I am very capable of plug replacement in my 45 years of being a motor head hobbyist, but employed as an engineering technical coordinator. Have built motors from the bare block out and rebuilt 2 cars from axles up. These tips and tools are meant to possibly save other mechanical hobbyist some time and maybe trouble. The pros who do this shielded plug surgery routinely, make this job appear easier than it is. These tips are not for them. There are many professionals’ comments, forums,a TSB, and many YouTube, on this topic. Watch and read ‘em all. This job is nerve racking, and requires long arms, as many length 3/8” socket extensions as you can gather, a damn good 9/16” spark plug socket, and some other things listed below. Visions of cylinder head removal abound during most of the removal operation.

The most important tool to have besides patience, is the Lisle plug removal kit. Great tool. Used correctly it produces fantastic results. Buy or borrow one and have it handy, read the instructions, keep the puller threads (bottom) clean and be careful. You MUST have an excellent penetrant, I did NOT (Deep Creep). IMO, the “Yield”product by ChemSearch reads well, and many swear by KROIL. PB Blaster may be ok, but I have found, if it dries on/in your parts their “catalyst” welds threads together. There are many recipes out there, one thatworks is vital, and critical to limiting plug break off during an easier, quicker job. I found dry rust on the shields more of a problem than carbon. Remove the battery, (terminal nuts are 8MM) and all firewall hanging apparatuses, including their brackets on both sides of the engine. Cylinders #8 and #4 plugs are not user friendly, and you will be glad you took the time to get this stuff out of the way. These parts take only minutes to remove. At least no work from underneath. And, the wheels or inner fenders can stay intact. Blow out and off the top of the motor intake and each plug location thoroughly, before you start on the coil (COP) removal.

Once again on tools - Lisle tool as mentioned. A high quality 3/8 drive 9/16” spark plug socket, that’s one that the rubber insulator stays in the socket, and not on the new installed plug insulator, now 2 inches out of reach inside the plug cavity. You will need a hooked pic tool for that problem, and it better not be on #4 or #8, were you mostly have to work by feel (can’t see into plug cavity). Long reach long nose pliers. Need basic equipped ¼ and 3/8 drive sets, a few standard and deep sockets, and many, many various extensions, I try not to use universal joints when doing plugs. Possibly a 3/8 to ½ drive increaser (15/16”socket necessary for Lisle tool). I did not remove the factory air intake system, it is handy to lean on /over and hold tools, and it is not in the way for this project. A 7mm nut driver is handy for most of the COP bolts. Remove the COP wire connections before removing the coils (COPs). My COPs pulled out and off easy at 103K miles. Number them and put ‘em back were you got ‘em. Some engine hoses and wires will be in a nuisance, but it is important keep your tools straight above your plugs. Learn how your wire and hose clips disconnect, or unclip from holders. A spark plug ratchet is always handy, 2 different designs, even better. IMO, the use of a 12V impact driver for the inexperienced, is a plug breaking hazard. The feel and sound of hand tools gives better feedback to what’s going on. Maybe an 18 volt with solid straight control over the plug would work. I initially used a good 12 volt driver and almost smoked it. Probably did some of my plug breaking. I switched to hand tools after no driver success. I could not initially break my plugs loose without using well over 45 pounds of torque with hand tools. I did not presoak the plugs and the motor was cold. There is controversy on both these items, and I would rethink both these decisions. IMO, the first slight twist and working the penetrant in with a 12volt impact, in forward and reverse blurts broke most ofmy plugs off. I had dry rust on 7 of 8 lower plug shields. Good penetrant and soak time is very critical. I have heard a 1/4 drive air impact turned low works quite well? After #5 through #8 cylinders had soaked overnight, opened a 1/8 of a turn, number 7 cylinder was my lone success, and it was wet all the way down (only one). A 12 volt 3/8 ratchet was handy, once stuff was broke loose. Vise grips for twisting the removed broken off shield from the Lisle tool. A bright small light. When you are finished getting a plug completely removed and well blown out … install a new plug next. Anti-seize does not belong on the threads of spark plugs. Among other reasons, it throws off torque readings which I use to install plugs. These plugs are recommended at 33 foot pounds, actually seems a little high. Holes left open to the inside of a motor, while you are working elsewhere, can result in being very hazardous to your well-being and wallet.

Looking back, this job was fun for a hobbyist mechanic who can visualize and relate well. My truck runs great, and idles very smooth at 550 rpm. I did not replace my COPs, but was careful with them. I hope to never do this job again. I saved a ton a money, but severely bruised my ribs (slipped on fender 3-4 times) and deflated my ego, busting off 7 of 8 plugs. I also put on a K/N performance air intake immediately after the plugs. Looking forward to a mileage check. I strongly recommend installing the newly redesigned Motorcraft plug numbered PZH14F (SP515). They are a new design in the last year, and supposedly remedy the break off problem. Eight of ‘em range from $120 to $160. Many agree they are the way to go.

Peace and good Luck
RZ -Michigan

Mileage up 1-2 mpg, city!