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  #61  
Old 06-28-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965 View Post
That's the stuff you saw in my picture Jose, pink! (Fleet Charge)
Ah, Ok, now I remember. Thanks. Here in my country I cant get that one, I bougth a green Motorcraft coolant.


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Old 06-28-2013, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic View Post
If you DO decide to pull the little plugs in the block, don't put them back in. Instead buy a couple small brass valves and put those in so you can drain it easily in the future and then loosely thread the plugs into the end of the valves to keep them clean. That's what I did, but I haven't used them since, lol.
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Originally Posted by Awitte58 View Post
I wouldnt recommend the 50/50 pre-blended coolant if you arent going to pull the drain plugs and completely empty the motor.

Gooch's coolant flush procedure explains how you cant completely empty the block of ALL water, so he recommends you get the full strength pre-charged coolant.
After it is flushed as good as you can get it. You add 4 gallons of FULL STRENGTH precharged coolant. And then fill the rest of the way with distilled water.
Since the entire system is 8 gallons that should leave you with a good 50/50 blend.
And since you went precharged it will have the right amount of SCA in it to start out.


If you use the 50/50 it will be diluted with the water already in the engine block.

Just my .02
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Originally Posted by Awitte58 View Post
Also.. I used the FleetCharge brand of coolant. It is available at Oreillys and TSC.
Im sure other places. Its a well known product.

Its got the big rig on the front... here.

Fleet Charge® Fleet Charge Antifreeze, 1 gal. - Tractor Supply Online Store


Some Data on the product.
http://www.technologylubricants.com/..._SpecSheet.pdf
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965 View Post
That's the stuff you saw in my picture Jose, pink! (Fleet Charge)
These are all GREAT tips and I will heed them. I am not entirely sure I will pull the plugs, but I'll take a look at them and see what they look like. I have some $$ coming in next week that is allotted for an "all fluid change", a coolant filter kit, and misc stuff that doesn't make it run better or anything (such as replacing the absolute horrible stereo the PO had in there).

My next question is fuel filtration. I have seen some stuff on the E fuel kits, but again, have no knowledge of what is better or best.

And thanks so much for all the help and sharing the stoke! That has made this experience even better!
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1997 F-350 CC Dually, 7.3 PSD, 6637 Intake, Straight 4" Stainless Exhaust, 3" DP, Bellowed Uppies and E-Fuel by Re-Billd, Rotella 15w-40/Motorcraft Filters, EDGE Insight CTS, Glow Shift Fuel Pressure/Boost Gauges, John Woods E4OD HD, TS Chip, 217k Miles

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  #63  
Old 06-28-2013, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BBslider001 View Post
These are all GREAT tips and I will heed them. I am not entirely sure I will pull the plugs, but I'll take a look at them and see what they look like. I have some $$ coming in next week that is allotted for an "all fluid change", a coolant filter kit, and misc stuff that doesn't make it run better or anything (such as replacing the absolute horrible stereo the PO had in there).

My next question is fuel filtration. I have seen some stuff on the E fuel kits, but again, have no knowledge of what is better or best.

And thanks so much for all the help and sharing the stoke! That has made this experience even better!
Forget about electric fuel systems for a bit. Your going to spend several hundred dollars on that and IMO the money is better spent elsewhere on a stock truck unless your stock fuel system is leaking fuel everywhere and needs a new pump, I'd leave it alone and learn how this thing works. First money I would spend would be the intake, gauges, and a chip. The stock fuel system (with a shimmed regulator) works plenty good with stage 2 injectors, so unless your planning to make more than 400hp or you just want to make it nicer under the hood, leave the fuel system alone.
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  #64  
Old 06-28-2013, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch View Post
Forget about electric fuel systems for a bit. Your going to spend several hundred dollars on that and IMO the money is better spent elsewhere on a stock truck unless your stock fuel system is leaking fuel everywhere and needs a new pump, I'd leave it alone and learn how this thing works. First money I would spend would be the intake, gauges, and a chip. The stock fuel system (with a shimmed regulator) works plenty good with stage 2 injectors, so unless your planning to make more than 400hp or you just want to make it nicer under the hood, leave the fuel system alone.
Couldn't agree more. I had a leaky pump that I flat out didn't want to change and I absolutely hated that fuel bowl. So for me it was an easy answer. Not to mention I was ahead of where you are with mods. Get the maintenance in tip top order, then like Travis said, gauges and chip. You'll love the chip, but then you'll want injectors, then you'll want.......lol
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  #65  
Old 06-28-2013, 06:47 PM
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Well, my main plan at this point is to get this truck so it will go another 200k miles with little to no trouble. I thought the E fuel thing was a "super filtration" like the AirDog technology or something similar. I have owned diesels for quite awhile and pulled quite few trailers, but I know each one has their own little things that make them tick. My last '97 PStroke had a DP, gutted Cat, and gauges...that was it. But that was 9 years ago and people have so much more knowledge now about what makes them last. Then my Dmax had a blocked EGR, straight pipe exhaust, Amsoil dual filtrataion (waste of $$ in IMHO), and Pyro/Boost Gauges. My next truck, 2003 Cummins, had 4" Banks exhaust open from the turbo back, gauges, Cat Fuel Filtration, and a Valair Clutch. See where I am going with this? i don't want to be boring by any means, but I know the PSD is a whole different animal with it's own set of things to make it run 400k miles. Hopefully I won't be building the E4OD anytime soon. I am glad you guys pointed out the maint. stuff. I could not agree more. That is why the coolant thing had me a little worried!

So, is the stock fuel filtration pretty decent on the '97? I currently run TCW-3 rated 2 cycle oil in the tank. I have done it on my truck since the sulfur rating went to poop with ULSD and have never had a fuel issue on any diesel truck I have owned.

On a side note, I have been on quite a few forums, and all joking aside, this one has some of the coolest people and the most willing to help! I am stoked about that!

So Travis, I'll give you 2 cases of Coors Light and some good Texas brisket to get my rig to 500 RWHP!
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  #66  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BBslider001 View Post
So Travis, I'll give you 2 cases of Coors Light and some good Texas brisket to get my rig to 500 RWHP!
You buy the parts and I'll point fingers and show you what to do. How's that? Oh and you'll still bring the Coors Light (maybe more than 2 cases) and brisket. Sounds like a good deal to me. LOL

The factory fuel system on these trucks aren't bad. I wouldn't be too worried about the factory filtration if your keeping up with the fuel filter intervals and draining the bowl correctly. The amount of leak points is the sucky part. It works well for a fairly stock truck and can last for 200+k miles, but there are way too many o-rings, fuel lines, and of course the pump and sealing washers on the banjo bolt to leak. Then there is the fuel heater that needs to be pulled out of every OBS in existence and either left deleted or replaced with an SD heater.
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  #67  
Old 06-30-2013, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch View Post
You buy the parts and I'll point fingers and show you what to do. How's that? Oh and you'll still bring the Coors Light (maybe more than 2 cases) and brisket. Sounds like a good deal to me. LOL

The factory fuel system on these trucks aren't bad. I wouldn't be too worried about the factory filtration if your keeping up with the fuel filter intervals and draining the bowl correctly. The amount of leak points is the sucky part. It works well for a fairly stock truck and can last for 200+k miles, but there are way too many o-rings, fuel lines, and of course the pump and sealing washers on the banjo bolt to leak. Then there is the fuel heater that needs to be pulled out of every OBS in existence and either left deleted or replaced with an SD heater.
DONE deal!
Ok, so what is an SD heater? I am glad to hear I can just maintain it, but what does the fuel bowl do and what do I need to do with it? I changed the filter and it looked clean. I am counting my blessings that I don't have any leaks right now.

And here is a question probably for a new thread. My MAX A/C doesn't work, The a/c itself works and I can get heat on my feet, but the max doesn't recirc like it should. That, and the blower seems to be weak, but I don't know if the blower motor should be replaced or the resistor?
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  #68  
Old 06-30-2013, 09:03 PM
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Check the vacuum line for the blend door or whatever over by the passenger side fende and cowl. It's a white vacuum line that's usually broken. That's all I can think of for max A/C. I'm not an AC guru. Lol.

The fuel heater sits under the filter on a little plate inside the bowl. The SD(super duty) heater is a better design. Ours tend to break and the heater hits the fuel bowl and shorts it out causing the engine to shut down.
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch View Post
Check the vacuum line for the blend door or whatever over by the passenger side fende and cowl. It's a white vacuum line that's usually broken. That's all I can think of for max A/C. I'm not an AC guru. Lol.

The fuel heater sits under the filter on a little plate inside the bowl. The SD(super duty) heater is a better design. Ours tend to break and the heater hits the fuel bowl and shorts it out causing the engine to shut down.
Excellent! Learned something new once again. I'll check the line and the fuel bowl first thing in the morning when I can see! I hope I find a clean bowl and a broken line.

Ok, hate to keep buggin' you guys, but I keep reading thru threads and seeing terms I know nothing about or jargon on stuff. So, next questions. What is the oil cap blow by test and what is EBPV? I have seen that some have deleted the EBPV and done this test. That's it....for now
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:20 AM
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OK! I figured out what the EBPV is!! Now I just have to figure out how to unplug it. I know it is behind the turbo housing, but will look in the morning and make sure I get the right thing unplugged.

Still have no idea how to do the blow-by test. I hope it isn't what i think it is. I took the cap off when I looked at the truck after driving it and it had minor smoke coming out of the cap hole. My Dodge did the same thing though and I was told it was normal, so I wasn't alarmed. It has very light white smoke in the morning at start-up for about 15 seconds and then goes away. It also fires right up.
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1997 F-350 CC Dually, 7.3 PSD, 6637 Intake, Straight 4" Stainless Exhaust, 3" DP, Bellowed Uppies and E-Fuel by Re-Billd, Rotella 15w-40/Motorcraft Filters, EDGE Insight CTS, Glow Shift Fuel Pressure/Boost Gauges, John Woods E4OD HD, TS Chip, 217k Miles

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Old 07-01-2013, 01:39 AM
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Cap blow-by test is when you remove the cap, turn it upside down and put it over the hole. If it gets blown off you have an issue. If it just vibrates off you're good.
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Old 07-01-2013, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by FI460 View Post
Cap blow-by test is when you remove the cap, turn it upside down and put it over the hole. If it gets blown off you have an issue. If it just vibrates off you're good.
Great. I guess I'll find out in the morning. I should have done that before I bought the truck but had no idea.
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  #73  
Old 07-01-2013, 09:18 AM
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Sounds like you're coming up to speed quickly. The electrical connector for the EBPV is under the intake side of the turbo. It's a little 2 wire weatherpack connector. Unplug it and don't look back. If you have the turbo off the truck down the road you can eliminate it all together and open up the exhaust a little more. It doesn't hurt anything to leave it in there, but it will breathe a tad better without it.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:22 AM
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OK! I figured out what the EBPV is!! Now I just have to figure out how to unplug it. I know it is behind the turbo housing, but will look in the morning and make sure I get the right thing unplugged.

Still have no idea how to do the blow-by test. I hope it isn't what i think it is. I took the cap off when I looked at the truck after driving it and it had minor smoke coming out of the cap hole. My Dodge did the same thing though and I was told it was normal, so I wasn't alarmed. It has very light white smoke in the morning at start-up for about 15 seconds and then goes away. It also fires right up.
This is for you:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...finitions.html
For anyone who needs acronyms for Ford - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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Old 07-01-2013, 11:42 AM
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DONE deal!
Ok, so what is an SD heater? I am glad to hear I can just maintain it, but what does the fuel bowl do and what do I need to do with it? I changed the filter and it looked clean. I am counting my blessings that I don't have any leaks right now.

And here is a question probably for a new thread. My MAX A/C doesn't work, The a/c itself works and I can get heat on my feet, but the max doesn't recirc like it should. That, and the blower seems to be weak, but I don't know if the blower motor should be replaced or the resistor?
Read this too:
TikiWiki : 94-97 PSD Fuel Heater Upgrade
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/85...placement.html
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/pics/ff/clnBotm.jpg


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Old 07-01-2013, 11:42 AM
 
 
 
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