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  #46  
Old 06-26-2013, 07:34 PM
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Here is a good reading for you:
http://www.genosgarage.com/installat...TestStrips.pdf


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  #47  
Old 06-26-2013, 08:50 PM
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Jose got you taken care of on SCA. It is definitely needed and good to keep an eye on. I've changed my coolant a couple times over the last 2 years and have completely neglected the SCAs. I threw in whatever I had left this last time, but it wasn't enough I'm sure. I really need to check it.
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  #48  
Old 06-27-2013, 07:41 AM
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If you're going to do fluid changes anyway, flush the cooling system, install the filter of your choice, and then refill it with a coolant already charged with SCA. NAPA carries one that several guys here have used.

Oh, and one other thing that bears repeating, fill it with DISTILLED water, not tap water. Part of the issue with cavitation is that there are microscopic solids (minerals) in tap water and they tend to precipitate out of the water over time. That turns into grit flowing around in the cooling system. While a filter will help with this, using distilled water eliminates that source of solids. You'll still catch a lot that you will clean out of the block, but at least you won't be adding any new solids with your fresh fluids. Some guys recommend flushing it with distilled water too, and draining the block by pulling the plugs in the head, but that is going above and beyond IMO.

I want to say that 4-5 gallons of distilled water and 3-4 gallons of coolant is needed. Someone else can nail that detail down for me.
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  #49  
Old 06-27-2013, 07:45 AM
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I would pull the block drain plugs and flush. like nate said and i gget 3 gal of coolant and distilled and have a gallon premixed left over for future top offs.
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  #50  
Old 06-27-2013, 08:18 AM
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Just draining radiator you'll need about 3-4 gallons. Full flush is right at 8.
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  #51  
Old 06-27-2013, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tshrager View Post
Just draining radiator you'll need about 3-4 gallons. Full flush is right at 8.
That's right. The other day I drained my radiator and it was three gallons.
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  #52  
Old 06-27-2013, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP View Post
Thanks for this! I read the entire deal and definitely feel more educated on the whole subject. I am just going to flush the whole system this weekend. I went by 2 Napas yesterday and no test strips. I decided I'll order them from Fleetguard so I can test in the future.

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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic View Post
If you're going to do fluid changes anyway, flush the cooling system, install the filter of your choice, and then refill it with a coolant already charged with SCA. NAPA carries one that several guys here have used.

Oh, and one other thing that bears repeating, fill it with DISTILLED water, not tap water. Part of the issue with cavitation is that there are microscopic solids (minerals) in tap water and they tend to precipitate out of the water over time. That turns into grit flowing around in the cooling system. While a filter will help with this, using distilled water eliminates that source of solids. You'll still catch a lot that you will clean out of the block, but at least you won't be adding any new solids with your fresh fluids. Some guys recommend flushing it with distilled water too, and draining the block by pulling the plugs in the head, but that is going above and beyond IMO.

I want to say that 4-5 gallons of distilled water and 3-4 gallons of coolant is needed. Someone else can nail that detail down for me.
I did see the 50/50 Diesel SCA Charged coolant at Napa yesterday. I'll be using that this weekend.

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Originally Posted by tshrager View Post
Just draining radiator you'll need about 3-4 gallons. Full flush is right at 8.
Yikes. I don't think I'll do the full flush just yet. I don't really have a place at the moment to be pulling freeze plugs, etc... I can do a simple flush in front of my house and hopefully cover what I need to.

Sorry for turning this into a "coolant flush" thread guys. Didn't mean to do that. Back on topic of this epic truck! The more I drive it, the more I like it. I want to do a buzz test and CC test, but it doesn't miss or run weird. It idles right at 650 and is pretty smooth. We are gonna take a test run with the Sundance this weekend and make sure all is good for a longer trip in 2 weeks. We'll just head about 2 hours away to the desert and stay overnight. Then we head to Vegas for a 3 day stay to visit family in about 2 weeks. Also, getting 18.7 hand calc'd mileage so far. I can't complain.
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  #53  
Old 06-27-2013, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBslider001 View Post
Yikes. I don't think I'll do the full flush just yet. I don't really have a place at the moment to be pulling freeze plugs, etc... I can do a simple flush in front of my house and hopefully cover what I need to.
I wouldn't worry about draining the block either. You wouldn't be pulling freeze plugs, but pipe plugs that are screwed into the block. A lot of times those plugs are rusted and don't want to come out, so I don't jack with them. You can pull the coolant heater out of the oil cooler to drain some coolant out of the block, but like I said, I don't normally mess with coolant in the block. Just drain radiator and refill.
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  #54  
Old 06-28-2013, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by BBslider001 View Post
Thanks for this! I read the entire deal and definitely feel more educated on the whole subject. I am just going to flush the whole system this weekend. I went by 2 Napas yesterday and no test strips. I decided I'll order them from Fleetguard so I can test in the future.
You are welcome. BTW the test strips has to be fresh, so dont buy many, because they get out of date (expire) in certain time.

Im with Travis about the flush.


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  #55  
Old 06-28-2013, 09:28 AM
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If you DO decide to pull the little plugs in the block, don't put them back in. Instead buy a couple small brass valves and put those in so you can drain it easily in the future and then loosely thread the plugs into the end of the valves to keep them clean. That's what I did, but I haven't used them since, lol.
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  #56  
Old 06-28-2013, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic View Post
If you DO decide to pull the little plugs in the block, don't put them back in. Instead buy a couple small brass valves and put those in so you can drain it easily in the future and then loosely thread the plugs into the end of the valves to keep them clean. That's what I did, but I haven't used them since, lol.
Nate, good tip, do you have any pics?


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  #57  
Old 06-28-2013, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBslider001 View Post

I did see the 50/50 Diesel SCA Charged coolant at Napa yesterday. I'll be using that this weekend.
I wouldnt recommend the 50/50 pre-blended coolant if you arent going to pull the drain plugs and completely empty the motor.

Gooch's coolant flush procedure explains how you cant completely empty the block of ALL water, so he recommends you get the full strength pre-charged coolant.
After it is flushed as good as you can get it. You add 4 gallons of FULL STRENGTH precharged coolant. And then fill the rest of the way with distilled water.
Since the entire system is 8 gallons that should leave you with a good 50/50 blend.
And since you went precharged it will have the right amount of SCA in it to start out.


If you use the 50/50 it will be diluted with the water already in the engine block.

Just my .02
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:17 AM
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Also.. I used the FleetCharge brand of coolant. It is available at Oreillys and TSC.
Im sure other places. Its a well known product.

Its got the big rig on the front... here.

Fleet Charge® Fleet Charge Antifreeze, 1 gal. - Tractor Supply Online Store


Some Data on the product.
http://www.technologylubricants.com/..._SpecSheet.pdf
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  #59  
Old 06-28-2013, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Awitte58 View Post
Also.. I used the FleetCharge brand of coolant. It is available at Oreillys and TSC.
Im sure other places. Its a well known product.

Its got the big rig on the front... here.

Fleet Charge® Fleet Charge Antifreeze, 1 gal. - Tractor Supply Online Store


Some Data on the product.
http://www.technologylubricants.com/..._SpecSheet.pdf
What color is it? green?


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96 F250, E40D, 2WD, 3.55, 145K. DIY intake-exhaust brake. DP 3-3.5" ceramic coated; HPX; GPR switch; Isspro gauges; shim FPR; Tru-cool; CCV mod; 4" SS exhaust; SS 5" tip; no cat; RacerX VB; TW 6p chip; 203*;140IDM;6.0IC; cristal clear lenses; fuel tank mod; AC cold mod; coolant filter.


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  #60  
Old 06-28-2013, 11:11 AM
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That's the stuff you saw in my picture Jose, pink! (Fleet Charge)
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