Having now retired, sold the 'home place' of thirty years, and somewhat settled after the move, I may be ready to start on old Rusty Red, my 51 F1 project. Seeking voltage opinions. Lots of folks go to twelve volts. Are the step downs to protect original instruments a big hassle? Eight volt batteries are available in some farm stores? Can these be used in our vehicles to provide a little more starting power or does the 30% increase in voltage damage parts on a traditional six volt system?

 

If you are going to do it, then just do it all in 12 volts...you won't regret it.

 

8V's can be used in a 6 system with no problems except the voltage regulator should be adjusted to charge 8. I ran an 8 in my 6V for several years then went back to a 6 with a Tractor Supply battery. No problems and I figure if it worked in 1955 it's good now too. As a note I wanted to keep the truck 100% original.

 

JMHO: Six volts works fine if all is well, wiring engine condition, battery, connections, etc.
Eight volts is a patch, usually someone trying to mask a starting problem. Avoid it, don't go there.
Twelve volts is good if you want to run aftermarket accessories, brighter lights, etc. In some cases it could be more economically feasible to convert to twelve than completely rebuild and replace components of a six volt system. Your original starter will live a long life running from twelve volts. Original size wiring is more than adequate for twelve volts. (if in good shape) Getting instruments to operate on twelve volts is not a big deal. Use new technology reducers.

 

I think it depends on what type of vehicle you want to end up with. If you're trying to keep it bare bones and/or original, then leave the six volt system. If your truck has multiple issues with electrical components (missing or non functioning), then you would be better off (from a cost and maintenance standpoint) to make the switch to twelve volts. The previous owner of my '51 did a great job getting the truck to look good but electrically he cut a lot of corners (tons of wire splices, electrical taped connections, various wire splices, etc.). I'm going to start over with a new twelve volt harness and do it right so I'm not chasing down gremlins over the next few years. Just my two cents, good luck.

Wally

1951 F1 - 'ol red

 

I switched to 12v because decent batteries weren't available then, and I have a lot of experience with generators and regulators, all bad. Also at that time (early 2000's) 6v electronic ignitions weren't reliable. With the alternator, good wiring, and electronic ignition, I have not had a single electrical issue of any kind in 10 years.

I'm still using the same 12v AutoZone battery from 10 yrs ago. You rarely hear of a 6v lasting anywhere near that long, although the Tractor Supply batteries seem to be very good. But when you double the current in the system (6v), there is a lot more stress on everything.

 

No electrical issues? I'm surprised... you've had the right directional on constantly for like a year!

Wally

1951 F1 - ol' red

 

But it works!!! LOL!

 

12 volts all the way for me, better starting, brighter lights, cheaper batteries, the ability to run accessories. The voltage reducer to the instruments is easy to install. I just ordered a powergen from speedway motors, a one wire alternator that looks like a generator.

 

My two trucks are and will remain 6V stock. I drive them multiple times weekly during the season and never had an electrical issue due to voltage selection. Heck, I even took the crude 12V conversion on my F5 and brought it back to 6V system.

 

The wiring and electrical system is the one most troublesome systems in one of these trucks, 6V (pre 56) or 12V, doesn't matter. 60 year old components, deteriorated cloth covered wire, atmospheric corrosion, all power routed thru a couple circuit breakers (no fuses), generators and mechanical contact regulators, decades of questionable modifications, repairs, additions usually results in a plate of spaghetti under the dash, dim or intermittent lights, batteries that don't stay charged, engines that run poorly, smoke and fire etc. It's money well spent to rewire the entire truck with all new wire and components, especially if you plan on taking it to the dark side, using it as your daily driver or adding any modern accessories.
If you are a purist, like to tinker, track down obsolete parts, then there is nothing wrong with 6V and there are companies offering plug and play direct replacement 6V wiring harnesses (tho they are pretty pricey) that use modern plastic insulated wire with a simulated cloth covering. If you plan on updating your truck with newer engine, electronic/electrical accessories (just try to find a 6V + grnd GPS, mps player dock, sound system or electric windows or alarm/entry system!) Then it would be best to convert to 12V - grnd by installing one of the reasonably priced aftermarket universal wiring harnesses with fuse panel like from EZ wiring, It's a Snap, or Speedway Motors, replacing the generator and regulator with a one wire internally regulated alternator and replacing switches and other electrical components with new to give you years of dependable electrical service.
Converting from 6V to 12 V is not rocket surgery and even a complete rewire is not that difficult to do if you don't let it intimidate you and divide it into doing one sub section at a time. There are plenty of us on here that have done it and can walk you through it in easy to understand steps. Wiring isn't much different than plumbing the pipes are just smaller and more flexible.
PS: IMHO 8V is just a band aid for a sick system as said, fergittabowdid!

 

I've run 6V on my F1 for 40 years and still have the old patched-up wiring. At the time I bought the truck there were a few suppliers that sold replacement wiring harnesses, but they were too expensive at the time - they are a whole lot higher now! I ran a 12v CB radio in it when they were popular, using a 6V motorcycle battery in series with the truck battery - a switch selected a parallel arrangement for charging. I still have a small 6V gel cell battery installed and a 12v radio with tape player. I switched to 6V neg. ground so I wouldn't have to insulate the radio chassis - also have a 12v power outlet that I can run the GPS from. I use the Group 2 6V batteries and am probably only on about my 4th one - got 14 years out of the last one, but should have changed it out a year or two earlier. I've set up the voltage regulators and cut-outs for a couple of rigs over the years to run 8V batteries, but agree it's not a good practice and is usually done as a cure to cover up starting system problems such as dragging starters, bad connections, grounds, etc. - one benefit is nice bright headlights - they don't last too long though! - Bob

 

retired, 51 with 6V Indiana, huh, OK north east same kind of weather. Me too
old enough. Just curious, has anyone given the thought how life went on
in 1951? ?? I do, I was there. Talk about snow 15" a week was normal.
4X4 MH's were only in a dreamers wish book. These things always started
I cant remember dim lights always bright. Ya wipers wasnt the best,
defrosters I admit did suck everbody had a fan. Flathead exclusive they
were running before the button was released (try it on these new junks)
during the 40's early 50's 12 v was only reserved for busses and some
trucks they too were weak with monster generators barely making 35 amps
(for a bus)?? 20min at bus stop at night all lights on equills dead bat.
So my 47 Ford tractor starts without fail why need 12v. My mind tells me
if this society loose's their Ipad (whatever that is) these people are like
a fish out of water. Even my own kids (grown men) constantly got these
things stuffed in their ear (must be important executives) ! And this
there 1 and only one phonebooth in Tiverton RI. amazing i dread the
day they get rid of it. That was life. It just didnt last long enough.
I pray for a great American shut down nothing moves let them SOBs
drink their own fuel with polititions swallowing most of it. I have spoken

 

Wow, we are all over the spectrum on this issue, but I like the variety of the replies. I think I will initially try to get it up and running of the existing six volt system. I will leave eight volts alone. If it becomes road worthy and has potential for being a regular driver, I might then convert to the negative ground 12 volt system with a complete, modern rewire of the system.

I really like the perspective of the gentleman (Big job) from Rhode Island and the views on the one remaining pay telephone. I also remember the 50s. The reason I have a '51 is because it was made the same year that I was. My dad's first new vehicle was a '51 F1 pickup and I learned to drive on it in a hay field when I was about eight or nine years old. I don't recall any serious starting / reliability problems with it until it was entirely worn out / rusted out with 215,000 miles on the odometer and thousands more added after the odometer quit. (never overhauled - 239 flathead V8) Dad was a coal miner and the truck was regularly driven over the very rough mine roads. We also used it to haul lumber, logs, cattle, hogs, a pony, manure, coal, corn, hay, etc. etc. We did not have a tractor on the little farm. I even remember that we used the pickup for pulling small stumps from a cleared fence row. It was a BEAST of a truck!

Big job, my wife's sister is a professor at Rhode Island College in Providence. She lives in Norton, Mass. I have enjoyed visiting your area. There is a nice '51 F1 (red with 289 Ford motor and automatic transmission transplant) currently on eBay in West Barnstable, Mass. I see the price is up to $5350, but it will sell for a whole lot more.

Thanks again, everyone, for your responses!
Rob Blubaugh

 

For a guy who loves british cars anything you decide should be less concerning than a positive ground lucas wiring system

Good luck!

Wally

1951 F1 - ol' red