I have a 2004 F250 6.0 85k that is driven by an employee.
About 10 days ago I got a call that it was running real hot. Temp was at H and there was nothing in the degas bottle an no puking.
No visible leaks were present at the time. Added 3 gallons of coolant pre-mixed with distilled water. Truck started fine and stayed at the correct temp.

An hour later call comes in that the truck won't start. It turns over, sounds like it wants to fire but doesn't. Towed back home.
Hooked up a code reader to ODB port. There were issues communicating with it and the key was left in the on position till codes or no codes came up. Eventually p2622 came up was cleared and none ever came up again.
Engine now seems hydro-locked and there is a good drip of coolant on the passenger side.

Oil has only oil in it. Coolant has only coolant in it.

At this point it is assumed EGR cooler but that doesn't explain the no start. Head gasket would explain no start.

Tow it to repair shop. They look at it and tell me 7 injectors are not clicking. They replace 1 and that one works fine. Swap out FICM and no change.

I have no idea what the internal condition of the engine is at this point.

I can't find much on tests for the head gasket vs egr cooler if the truck won't start.

Questions?
Could leaving the key in the on position cause the injectors to burn out?
Can all 7 injectors go at once? I would assume something would have to cause this, but what? Overheating? The shop wants $4k to replace the injectors and that won't even help us with the source of the leak and if there is massive failure there.

If the engine is damaged, would an engine swap be the best alternative? I can't find much how to's on a 6.0 swap except that it may or may not require cab off.

I just bought this truck 3 months and owe $16k on it. I can't scrap it. I may have to get another truck, not a 6.0 and just take the time to repair it myself as the shop costs are not in the budget.

Any thought besides burn it are appreciated.

 

Ok, what's the current state of the truck?

You said it seems hydrolocked, but then started talking about testing injectors. Did you ever get it unlocked before moving on to other tests? If it's locked, remove all 8 glow plugs and turn the engine over by hand and see if anything comes out of the cylinders. Figure out what came out of them. If it's coolant, R&R the EGR cooler, then test the head gaskets once it's back together. If it's fuel, pull and re-ring that injector. A failed EGR cooler can lock the engine up solid, but so can a blown head gasket or a cracked injector. So you have to go through everything a step at a time to make sure.

7 injectors could die at once, it seems like that would be caused by an alternator/batteries/FICM killing them on the electrical side, but it could be from bad oil/extended oil change intervals or bad fuel pressure. If you were in the habit of leaving it at KOEO and draining the batteries, or were really trashing the electrical system with bad batteries and alternator, then you could nuke the FICM to the point where injectors start dropping.

Hydrolocked, coolant leak, lost all your coolant quickly. Park it nose down and remove the EGR valve, my guess it'll be at least wet and might have standing coolant in it, that points to a failed EGR cooler. If you did lock it, you might have lifted the head on that side and will need head gaskets anyway.

You can pull the engine with the cab on, if that's the way you want to go we have a write-up in the 6.0L forum where a guy did it. But when he got all said and done he pulled it out for an o-ring on an injector, there was nothing mechanically trashed in the bottom end at 580K miles.

 

I didn't do the work on the injectors myself. The mechanic did. It seemed partially hydrolocked as it was having a real problem during over when the night before it wasn't. Tomorrow I'm going back to see the status of the truck.

If the injectors were tested before the hydrolocking was resolved would that give false results?

If I need head gaskets, injectors, EGR and oil pump would it be cost effective to replace the engine? Of course depending on the cost of the used engine I come up with.

I am comfortable doing everything put the head gaskets. I know they have to machined but the only time I have tried to repair a blown head gasket resulted in failure.

 

Thanks for the help also, but I'm going to ask one more favor. I've looked for the write up on the engine swap and can't seem to find it. I looked in the 6.0L forum and just have to many results to find that article. Do you have a link that could help me?

 

Not positive but I think Bryan is talking about this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...oval-pics.html

Pretty good photos accompany the posts in it.

 

That's the one. I think the failure was from the roller lifter needle bearings.
Awesome post ....Lots of good reading...