1989 F350 with a 351 fuel injected.

This has happened to me three times, each slightly different but it's making the truck so unreliable I need to fix it.

Starts fine, idles fine, then all the sudden no acceleration. Check engine is on. The one time I was able to pull codes on it, it basically said every single error code in the book. Can lightly step on the gas to get it to go a bit faster but there's a fine line between getting some acceleration and having it cough, sputter and barely keep running. Luckily have been able to limp home. Sits and cools off then starts and drives perfectly.

When the 1986 460 did this I gave it a new "brain" and all was well. Where's the brain on this thing? Is it the ignition control module? Are they seriously that much cheaper on these newer models? The 86's brain was the giant box on the fender well that pretty much everything plugged into. This thing just has a sea of connectors, sans brain. Where's the brain on this thing?

 

I have the summer tune up kit and some new HID lights to put on the thing, but unless this problem is solved I'm hesitant to give it a much needed new set of wires/cap/rotor.

 

Throwing that many codes sounds more like the ECM. The ignition control module is either on the side of the distributor or on the drivers fender back by the hood hinge.

Matt

 

99% chance you have a bad engine computer or "ECM".
Yours should be located below and to the right of your brake master cylinder and booster.
It sits inside the firewall, and will require you to loosen the fenderwell enough that you can push down the plastic fenderwell to slide the computer out.

I would highly recommend removing the connector and then removing the computer from the truck completely so you can open it up and look inside, you'll most likely find the three electrolytic capacitors have been leaking and ruined the board of the computer.

 

X3 on the ecm .

 

A9x ECM's (and same years ECM's) Failures Due to Age

This worked wonders for me. Even if this happens to not be your specific problem, it probably needs to be done anyway.

Order (2) of these:
Invalid Request

And (1) of these:
Invalid Request

...before you tear into it and you can continue driving it in the meantime.

 

Thanks everyone! Will pull it and give the cap replacement a try. Worst case scenario is buying a new one! I'm OK with a soldering gun so it's worth a shot.

 

Prob should have mentioned "4 speed manual." Now that I have the caps and finally tore the module apart, I've only got one cap. My unit is an "E9D" and the circuit board states "SD20." The lone cap is a 3.3uF and look ok (of course looks mean nothing...)

Off to google this.

 

OK, it's an E9D part E9TF-12A650-AE1A. What is a reasonable replacement part for this? I think I'm going to bale on the repair and just purchase one, but it's not painfully obvious what flavor of replacement parts you need to order to get the correct unit.

thanks!

fordbozo

 

Search on E9TF-AE1A, it narrows down the search by several orders of magnitude. Standard Motor Products has a re-manufactured unit under their Part# EM10200.

These folks repair PCM/ECMs: Ecu Repair Now, automotive circuit board testing and repair you might try giving them a shout.

 

It looks like they toss out some of the part number, and you order via AEA instead of AE1A for the last chunk of the part number. On the backside are numbers printed on the plastic itself, 8915-1010 then E9AF 14A624 AA

This unit has just the one capacitor, which I think I'll swap out anyway and put unit back in. After so much grief lining up capacitors for the wrong model and getting the one evil tiny stuck recessed 4MM bolt out to open the thing up I feel like I'm being lazy if I don't attempt a cap replacement.

I did come to the same conclusion that I'd order "STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part #EM10200" as a replacement.