Should I flush my coolant?
#1
06-23-2013, 10:07 AM
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Should I flush my coolant?
I need to put a new thermostat in my truck and I know I have to drain out about a gallon of coolant. But the thing is, I have no idea what type of coolant is in there right now, so I dont know what to add to it at the end.
I was thinking that I would do a flush of the coolant instead and put in an ELC-1 rated coolant, but I have read on here multiple times that If i flush the coolant and switch to elc coolant I have to use restore or some sort of cleaning agent, but they all say if I do this I will plug my oil cooler. I really do not want to plug my oil cooler
I was thinking that I would do a flush of the coolant instead and put in an ELC-1 rated coolant, but I have read on here multiple times that If i flush the coolant and switch to elc coolant I have to use restore or some sort of cleaning agent, but they all say if I do this I will plug my oil cooler. I really do not want to plug my oil cooler
#3
06-23-2013, 10:47 AM
Mountain Pass
If you already have a diesel coolant, then I wouldn't. If you are that worried about the coolant type, then get a coolant filter, and run that for a while, then do one or two (max) distilled water only flushes to change the coolant.
If you have green coolant, then you want to do about two or three distilled-only flushes, with a coolant filter to help.
I am not sure what others say, but I wouldn't do the engine block drains if you are doing coolant change (distilled) only flushing - you want to minimize how much sand and silicate goo you stir up.
If you have green coolant, then you want to do about two or three distilled-only flushes, with a coolant filter to help.
I am not sure what others say, but I wouldn't do the engine block drains if you are doing coolant change (distilled) only flushing - you want to minimize how much sand and silicate goo you stir up.
#4
06-23-2013, 11:41 AM
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If i only do a distilled flush should I still switch to a silicate free coolant? I do not think there is a diesel coolant in it right now. Should I stay with ford gold if I do not use chemicals to clean out everything? Because their could still be a film covering everything and I do not know how well the diesel coolant would mix with that
#5
06-23-2013, 12:32 PM
If i only do a distilled flush should I still switch to a silicate free coolant? I do not think there is a diesel coolant in it right now. Should I stay with ford gold if I do not use chemicals to clean out everything? Because their could still be a film covering everything and I do not know how well the diesel coolant would mix with that
Remove t-stat and reinstall housing.
Top off with tap water.
Dump the water (radiator and block drain)
Top off with water and idle for 10 minutes
Dump water and top off with garden hose in degas bottle
Start engine with all drains open and garden hose flowing water into degas
Idle 15-20 minutes with all drains open. Rev the engine every now and then to really blow the water out.
Stop engine and let all water drain.
Top off with distilled
Run 10 minutes
Repeat about 4 times
Open all drains then close. Install new t-stat and o-ring. Top off with 100% EC-1 Coolant, about 3.5 gallons.
Drive it like ya stole it.
Josh
#6
06-23-2013, 02:31 PM
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Drop the coolant.
Remove t-stat and reinstall housing.
Top off with tap water.
Dump the water (radiator and block drain)
Top off with water and idle for 10 minutes
Dump water and top off with garden hose in degas bottle
Start engine with all drains open and garden hose flowing water into degas
Idle 15-20 minutes with all drains open. Rev the engine every now and then to really blow the water out.
Stop engine and let all water drain.
Top off with distilled
Run 10 minutes
Repeat about 4 times
Open all drains then close. Install new t-stat and o-ring. Top off with 100% EC-1 Coolant, about 3.5 gallons.
Drive it like ya stole it.
Josh
Remove t-stat and reinstall housing.
Top off with tap water.
Dump the water (radiator and block drain)
Top off with water and idle for 10 minutes
Dump water and top off with garden hose in degas bottle
Start engine with all drains open and garden hose flowing water into degas
Idle 15-20 minutes with all drains open. Rev the engine every now and then to really blow the water out.
Stop engine and let all water drain.
Top off with distilled
Run 10 minutes
Repeat about 4 times
Open all drains then close. Install new t-stat and o-ring. Top off with 100% EC-1 Coolant, about 3.5 gallons.
Drive it like ya stole it.
Josh
#7
06-23-2013, 02:38 PM
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#8
06-23-2013, 02:55 PM
#9
06-23-2013, 03:34 PM
What you are saying may be practical but if you check on the coolant manufacturers sight you will see stuff like this:
Question: My truck/equipment has conventional coolant in it, but I would like to use ELC. How do I convert my truck?
Answer: Follow these steps:
1. Drain the coolant into a suitable container.
2. Dispose of the coolant according to local regulations.
3. Remove the empty ACA filter and remove the filter base. Plug the
coolant lines or bypass the coolant lines to the filter base.
4. Flush the system with clean water to remove any debris.
5. Use Cat cleaner to clean the system. Follow the instructions on the
label.
6. Drain the cleaner into a suitable container. Flush the cooling system
with clean water
7. Fill the cooling system with clean water and operate the engine until the
engine is warmed to 49 to 66 deg. C (120 to 150 deg. F)
8. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container and flush the cooling
system with clean water.
And here's the reason why.
Question: Does ELC really have acid in it? Does “acid based” mean it is corrosive? Since it is acid based, does it attack aluminum?
Answer: The organic acids used in ELC’s additive package have been neutralized to form highly effective corrosion inhibitors often referred to as carboxylates. The difference is they are “organic” acids versus the “inorganic” acids found in standard heavy-duty coolants. The use of acids as corrosion inhibitors is not new. Conventional coolants contain inorganic inhibitors such as phosphate and/or borate, which are derived from phosphoric acid and boric acid respectively.
The phosphate and or Borate from the old coolant remains on the surfaces even after a fresh water flush. It takes cleaning chemicals to remove them and the surface corrosion created by them to prepare the surface for the structured protective corrosion that is the mechanism of how the ELC works to occur.
This info is from the Cat sight here:
http://louisianacat.com/system/resou...kVU/elcfaq.pdf
Most of the other ELC manufacturers have similar info posted.
To be honest I don't think your engine is going to blow if you don't flush with cleaner during the change. It just has a better chance of protecting your engine as it was intended if you don't skip any steps. This is general info, not specific to the 6.0 Ford so you have to weigh possibly clogging the oil cooler against this info and make your own decision.
Question: My truck/equipment has conventional coolant in it, but I would like to use ELC. How do I convert my truck?
Answer: Follow these steps:
1. Drain the coolant into a suitable container.
2. Dispose of the coolant according to local regulations.
3. Remove the empty ACA filter and remove the filter base. Plug the
coolant lines or bypass the coolant lines to the filter base.
4. Flush the system with clean water to remove any debris.
5. Use Cat cleaner to clean the system. Follow the instructions on the
label.
6. Drain the cleaner into a suitable container. Flush the cooling system
with clean water
7. Fill the cooling system with clean water and operate the engine until the
engine is warmed to 49 to 66 deg. C (120 to 150 deg. F)
8. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container and flush the cooling
system with clean water.
And here's the reason why.
Question: Does ELC really have acid in it? Does “acid based” mean it is corrosive? Since it is acid based, does it attack aluminum?
Answer: The organic acids used in ELC’s additive package have been neutralized to form highly effective corrosion inhibitors often referred to as carboxylates. The difference is they are “organic” acids versus the “inorganic” acids found in standard heavy-duty coolants. The use of acids as corrosion inhibitors is not new. Conventional coolants contain inorganic inhibitors such as phosphate and/or borate, which are derived from phosphoric acid and boric acid respectively.
The phosphate and or Borate from the old coolant remains on the surfaces even after a fresh water flush. It takes cleaning chemicals to remove them and the surface corrosion created by them to prepare the surface for the structured protective corrosion that is the mechanism of how the ELC works to occur.
This info is from the Cat sight here:
http://louisianacat.com/system/resou...kVU/elcfaq.pdf
Most of the other ELC manufacturers have similar info posted.
To be honest I don't think your engine is going to blow if you don't flush with cleaner during the change. It just has a better chance of protecting your engine as it was intended if you don't skip any steps. This is general info, not specific to the 6.0 Ford so you have to weigh possibly clogging the oil cooler against this info and make your own decision.
#10
06-23-2013, 04:41 PM
What you are saying may be practical but if you check on the coolant manufacturers sight you will see stuff like this:
Question: My truck/equipment has conventional coolant in it, but I would like to use ELC. How do I convert my truck?
Answer: Follow these steps:
1. Drain the coolant into a suitable container.
2. Dispose of the coolant according to local regulations.
3. Remove the empty ACA filter and remove the filter base. Plug the
coolant lines or bypass the coolant lines to the filter base.
4. Flush the system with clean water to remove any debris.
5. Use Cat cleaner to clean the system. Follow the instructions on the
label.
6. Drain the cleaner into a suitable container. Flush the cooling system
with clean water
7. Fill the cooling system with clean water and operate the engine until the
engine is warmed to 49 to 66 deg. C (120 to 150 deg. F)
8. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container and flush the cooling
system with clean water.
And here's the reason why.
Question: Does ELC really have acid in it? Does “acid based” mean it is corrosive? Since it is acid based, does it attack aluminum?
Answer: The organic acids used in ELC’s additive package have been neutralized to form highly effective corrosion inhibitors often referred to as carboxylates. The difference is they are “organic” acids versus the “inorganic” acids found in standard heavy-duty coolants. The use of acids as corrosion inhibitors is not new. Conventional coolants contain inorganic inhibitors such as phosphate and/or borate, which are derived from phosphoric acid and boric acid respectively.
The phosphate and or Borate from the old coolant remains on the surfaces even after a fresh water flush. It takes cleaning chemicals to remove them and the surface corrosion created by them to prepare the surface for the structured protective corrosion that is the mechanism of how the ELC works to occur.
This info is from the Cat sight here:
http://louisianacat.com/system/resou...kVU/elcfaq.pdf
Most of the other ELC manufacturers have similar info posted.
To be honest I don't think your engine is going to blow if you don't flush with cleaner during the change. It just has a better chance of protecting your engine as it was intended if you don't skip any steps. This is general info, not specific to the 6.0 Ford so you have to weigh possibly clogging the oil cooler against this info and make your own decision.
Question: My truck/equipment has conventional coolant in it, but I would like to use ELC. How do I convert my truck?
Answer: Follow these steps:
1. Drain the coolant into a suitable container.
2. Dispose of the coolant according to local regulations.
3. Remove the empty ACA filter and remove the filter base. Plug the
coolant lines or bypass the coolant lines to the filter base.
4. Flush the system with clean water to remove any debris.
5. Use Cat cleaner to clean the system. Follow the instructions on the
label.
6. Drain the cleaner into a suitable container. Flush the cooling system
with clean water
7. Fill the cooling system with clean water and operate the engine until the
engine is warmed to 49 to 66 deg. C (120 to 150 deg. F)
8. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container and flush the cooling
system with clean water.
And here's the reason why.
Question: Does ELC really have acid in it? Does “acid based” mean it is corrosive? Since it is acid based, does it attack aluminum?
Answer: The organic acids used in ELC’s additive package have been neutralized to form highly effective corrosion inhibitors often referred to as carboxylates. The difference is they are “organic” acids versus the “inorganic” acids found in standard heavy-duty coolants. The use of acids as corrosion inhibitors is not new. Conventional coolants contain inorganic inhibitors such as phosphate and/or borate, which are derived from phosphoric acid and boric acid respectively.
The phosphate and or Borate from the old coolant remains on the surfaces even after a fresh water flush. It takes cleaning chemicals to remove them and the surface corrosion created by them to prepare the surface for the structured protective corrosion that is the mechanism of how the ELC works to occur.
This info is from the Cat sight here:
http://louisianacat.com/system/resou...kVU/elcfaq.pdf
Most of the other ELC manufacturers have similar info posted.
To be honest I don't think your engine is going to blow if you don't flush with cleaner during the change. It just has a better chance of protecting your engine as it was intended if you don't skip any steps. This is general info, not specific to the 6.0 Ford so you have to weigh possibly clogging the oil cooler against this info and make your own decision.
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