Pickin' a new used one.
#1
Pickin' a new used one.
Hey all, been lurking here for awhile, and I'm hopin' for some advice/opinions. In a couple of months I'm going to start looking for an F-150, and I really like the 1997-2003 years. I'm thinking 4wd extended cab, and I'm just wondering if any of you have any hints/tips/opinions on what I should be looking for.
A bit how I'll be using it: It will be mostly just local excursions to the dump, haul a deer out of the field, and when the snow gets too deep here (central NY) for my car, I'll use the truck. I also plan on getting a boat next spring (I'm thinking pontoon, but that's another site/thread) and I'll use the truck to pull this boat, though it'll never be very far (think 15 miles tops). I guess I'm looking for info on most popular (trouble free) engine size, better in snow, any other tips (i.e. one of these years being better than others). This looks like a real helpful site (with some REAL nice looking rigs!) and I look forward to any thoughts you folks may have.
A bit how I'll be using it: It will be mostly just local excursions to the dump, haul a deer out of the field, and when the snow gets too deep here (central NY) for my car, I'll use the truck. I also plan on getting a boat next spring (I'm thinking pontoon, but that's another site/thread) and I'll use the truck to pull this boat, though it'll never be very far (think 15 miles tops). I guess I'm looking for info on most popular (trouble free) engine size, better in snow, any other tips (i.e. one of these years being better than others). This looks like a real helpful site (with some REAL nice looking rigs!) and I look forward to any thoughts you folks may have.
#2
Well I am on my second 97 F-150 in five years . The first one was a 4.2 L reg cab long bed manual tranny . The one I have now is the 5.4 supercab long bed auto tranny. In my opinion the 97 to 03 are the best years . I would try to find one from below the Mason Dixon line. Pay strick attenion to under body rust and of course body rust.
The lower the miles the better of course . And one more thing depending on how much you're paying for it check the exhaust manifolds. That can be an expensive venture.
The lower the miles the better of course . And one more thing depending on how much you're paying for it check the exhaust manifolds. That can be an expensive venture.
#3
proper spark plug torque on the two valve motors is a must
gearing is also something you need to pay attention to since you are planning on towing - you want the highest ratio possible ie 3.73 or 4.10 if possible
you aslo want a factory tow package equiped vehicle with the higher output alternator, the factory transmission cooler (assuming you purchase one with a 5.4 and the mandatory auto or a 4.6 equipped with an auto)...
these motor will run upwards of 200k miles with ease, as long as they are maintained - if it's got a fram oil filter, look for another vehicle
gearing is also something you need to pay attention to since you are planning on towing - you want the highest ratio possible ie 3.73 or 4.10 if possible
you aslo want a factory tow package equiped vehicle with the higher output alternator, the factory transmission cooler (assuming you purchase one with a 5.4 and the mandatory auto or a 4.6 equipped with an auto)...
these motor will run upwards of 200k miles with ease, as long as they are maintained - if it's got a fram oil filter, look for another vehicle
#4
^^^ Agreed^^^ with the prior postings...my vote is for the 5.4 with tow package, with 4:10 gears with limited slip (LS) on the rear. Most came with 3:55, which isn't bad...but with trailering, even occasionally, you & the transmission be happier for it.
Note how slick the boat slip is where you intend to put party barge into the water. Even LS will have trouble at times as they can get slimmy...that is where "locker" differential on the rear and LS on the front would really be best. If you can't find the 3:73 or 4:10 in the differenials...then figure...$1500-2000 addition to upgrade to the desired 4:10 ratio. Even if the boat slip isn't that terrible...with the NY winters you'll be happier for extra ummpph then too.
02-03' is what you are really wanting/looking for....there is the 04'"Heritage"edition, which, from what I understand is a 04' body style but with the previous years 2v engine instead of the 3v which was new for 04' ( if that is not correct I'm sure others will chime in). Not sure if the Heritage came in 4x4 configuration though???
In 03' the heads were given more meat for the spark plugs reside in...but.. the spark plug ejection issue is pretty well resolved with proper torque, as stated earlier.
Also staying above 2000 vintage you would get the PI heads helped performance for either 4.6 & 5.4. Other nice-a-ties is the in staying above the 2000 mark is the extended cab comes with rear cab doors on both sides.
You might consider the full 4 door cab (crew cab)...yes you tend to loose footage in the box...but the 6.5ft box was a option, just not very easy to find. I think that the Crew cab might get a slightly better insurance rate, because of the pillar between the doors.
Note how slick the boat slip is where you intend to put party barge into the water. Even LS will have trouble at times as they can get slimmy...that is where "locker" differential on the rear and LS on the front would really be best. If you can't find the 3:73 or 4:10 in the differenials...then figure...$1500-2000 addition to upgrade to the desired 4:10 ratio. Even if the boat slip isn't that terrible...with the NY winters you'll be happier for extra ummpph then too.
02-03' is what you are really wanting/looking for....there is the 04'"Heritage"edition, which, from what I understand is a 04' body style but with the previous years 2v engine instead of the 3v which was new for 04' ( if that is not correct I'm sure others will chime in). Not sure if the Heritage came in 4x4 configuration though???
In 03' the heads were given more meat for the spark plugs reside in...but.. the spark plug ejection issue is pretty well resolved with proper torque, as stated earlier.
Also staying above 2000 vintage you would get the PI heads helped performance for either 4.6 & 5.4. Other nice-a-ties is the in staying above the 2000 mark is the extended cab comes with rear cab doors on both sides.
You might consider the full 4 door cab (crew cab)...yes you tend to loose footage in the box...but the 6.5ft box was a option, just not very easy to find. I think that the Crew cab might get a slightly better insurance rate, because of the pillar between the doors.
Last edited by enriched&beyound; 06-23-2013 at 06:39 AM. Reason: more info
#6
#7
In 05', we went with a used 98' F150 XLT SC 4X4 5.4L E4OD 3:55's 6.5 ft bed, tow and 4X4 package and went down south to get one, rust free. It has worked out well replacing the normal maintenance items along the way. Here in salt laden Northern MN. I have it sprayed every other year with "RustCheck", still no rust on the body. The engine is waning now with 200,000 on it. I just researched and bought an 03' 5.4L 2V EGR to replace it. The 03' is the most updated engine of that era. 30 more HP than my 98' and all the other issues addressed by the manufacturer. Southern vehicles see more heat and go through drive trains while the body stays clean. The opposite is true up north. Watch out for flood vehicles in your search. Get compression and oil pressure readings if your serous, CAR FAX wouldn't hurt either. The best milage I ever got was 22 hwy and 16 city back in 05". Now I get about 18 hwy as the motor is now rung out. Earlier models also had valve stem seal problems, Dupont intake manifold cracks. It is easily the best vehicle we've ever owned. Very dependable, if kept maintained. Hope to run it another 100,000 + miles with the new more powerful 03' plant!
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