Anybody have any experience with this one?

I've had a problem with the power-lock not popping up the manual-lock rod on the driver's door (and not unlocking the door). I can lock the door normally but when I try to unlock it with either the key or the power-lock button, I can see the manual locking rod lift a bit (but not far enough) and it doesn't stay up. I have to go around and unlock the passenger-side door and reach across to the inner door handle of the driver door to pop the lock and open the door. When I pull the inner door handle the door opens and the manual locking rod has its full travel and stays up, just as it always has.

I recently noticed I could sometimes get the lock to unlock by pulling out a bit on the outer door handle as I'd turn the key. That worked a few times but then one time the outer door handle became floppy and I couldn't get the door to latch when I tried to close it.

I was able to get home by pulling the door shut and and pressing the power-lock button. It didn't close fully but close enough. At home, I closed it a few times and it started latching normally again (but I still had my unlocking problem).

In working with the door today I got it back into the won't-latch condition, I'm not quite sure how (perhaps by simply opening it from the outside). I removed the inner panel and watershield and don't see anything obviously wrong. I did discover, however, that I can get the door to latch shut normally if I first lock the door, then shut it. If, for example, I'm outside the van and try to simply close the door, the latch won't catch and the door just bounces back open. But if I first lock it (with either the key or by reaching in to the power-lock button) and THEN close it, I can close the door fully and it latches shut against the seal as it should.

Any ideas on what could be happening here? I'm thinking it has to be the latch. (I have tried lubing it the parts I can see, by the way)

-MJ

 

ok... could be few contributing factors
1) sagging door (bad hinges) cause premature wear on latch, pin and locking mechanisms
2) inside the door there are couple plastic clips that hold the various rods in place. These tend to break or wear after time not holding how they once did
3) the outer handle assembly on these and the F-series tend to bend metal pieces which in turn don't allow the opening mechanism to pull up rod or open as well

I hope this helps, please update to help others with similar issues. Good Luck!

 

Update: Today I replaced the outer door handle and the latch assemblies. Everything works now.
The sometimes-floppy outer door handle symptom and the failure to latch (sometimes!) was due to the handle's spring being unable to return the handle (and its rod to the latch) back to position. The pivot was corroded. I may have been able to lube it and/or remove the pivot screw and clean it up but I noticed the tang that pushes against the lever was also quite worn and somewhat bent. I decided to replace the assembly.

I replaced the latch so I can unlock that door with a key and with the power-unlock button. I now have those functions back.

Costs (local Ford dealer): outer door handle $35, latch assy $80, 4 rivets $1.70 ea. Tool costs - 1/4" heavy-duty riveter $22@Harbor Freight. (I already had a #27 torx socket for my motorcycle)

Problems:
(1) instructions and diagrams in Haynes manual and Ford service CD have some minor errors and omissions (ex: instruction says 'remove screws from outer door handle' but they're rivets, not screws) (ex: front door latch is called a 'rear door latch' on the parts list) (ex: instructions don't mention you have to unplug the lock actuator wire)
(2) on the latch there's a power-actuated assembly with a plug. It was mounted upside down on the new latch assy compared to the original. That turned out to be simply a matter of pressing in on it against a spring and removing it and re-installing in the correct orientation.
(3) the new latch assy didn't have the white plastic guard the old one had. I swapped the old one to the new assy.
(4) the dealer couldn't get the specified rivet for re-mounting the lock actuator. He only had four-packs of the rivets for the outer door handle so I used one of those for the actuator mount. Both are 1/4" but it's unclear whether the depth is correct. It seemed to work fine (but obviously Ford specified a different one for a reason.)
(5) the new outer door handle came with a new rod to the latch. I used the old one rather than mess with the threaded rod end and risk getting adjustment wrong.
Tips:
(1) Rivet removal was easy. Knock out the center nail with a drift or nail-set. Drill with 1/4" drill.
(2) The worst part of the job was getting the latch assembly out of the door and the new one back in with all the control rods flopping about.
(3) the new latch assembly comes with a new inner door handle. No messing with the cable other than getting the sheath clipped in place to the door frame (on the toward-you side of the other cables)

-MJ

 

Sounds like what I posted.....hmmm

But thanks for the cost info.