Oh, forgot to mention the 30 footer is 7000 loaded

 

I know it gos without saying but be careful brother.

What kind of brake controller are you running? are you sure it isn't something as simple as the brake controller not being level?

 

I just had a an issue with mine after sitting up for a while. My right side rear was sticking. It completely lock up initially. It worked it self loose and ended up being he magnet was not releasing. Replaced the backplate And all was good. Good luck

 

Steve. Really appreciate your kind concern. I'll be really careful. It's a curt controller. What puzzles me is when I jack up the wheel off the ground, all wheels spin freely. Then we started driving it gets hot. It just does not make sense. Now with the trailer brake electrically disconnected, it does not make much heat anymore. However, I'm not really sure if some wiring messed up on the truck or trailer since I did do some star wheel adjustment. The way the wheels hand spin is the same before and after the adjustment.

 

what is the model name on the controller and is it timed or inertia controlled?

and here is the number for Curt mfg tech support. They are open now if you want to try to resolve this issue ( please)

800-892-2676

 

Steve. It's curt discovery. It came with this truck. I did a test run yesterday. Drove about 20 min at highway speed without any braking. The I came to a stop on the side of the highway withou using any brake at all (onto a slight hill with the aid of exhaust brake). It got hot as well. So, I'm quite puzzled with this whole situation. That's why I took the easiest solution (continuing using the trailer brakes and risking loosing my tires due to high temp or using the truck brake alone and drive slower). U did get me thinking again. Maybe I should to some more test and fix it ASAP. Thx again. Erwin

 

here is a link to the discovery manual

https://www.curtmfg.com/masterlibrar..._51120_INS.PDF

There is a chart on the last page that give faults and possible solutions along with the corredponding display you will get from the faults. The only fault it lists under " trailer brake on all the time" is an improper wired trailer connector ( truck or trailer) and the display would be blank. I would add to this thought that with a faulty brake light switch on the truck with a timed brake controller could cause this.

There is also a trailer towing and 5th wheel forum farther down the list on FTE. There is sometimed good advice and knowledge to be had there.

And remember, no matter how safe and carefully you drive you have ZERO control over the jackwagons AROUND you.

 

Like I said..check to make sure the emergency break away cable/plug is not trying to pull out as that will lock the brakes for sure..

 

First off, diagnosis before you run out and buy a new controller. Controller failure is rare. Forget the break-away pin, that is an all or none item and if activated should just about pitch you into the windshield, provided the brakes are in good shape. I think someone asked how long since the bearings were lubed, that might be important to consider. If you pull a drum you will be able to see what kind of shape the magnets are in. if they are powered continually they should show plenty of wear.

It is very simple to troubleshoot controllers. You have a junction box on your pin box where your seven pin cord connects. If your brake controller is active all the time, all you should have to do is measure voltage or better still amperage on the blue lead as that is the one from the controller to the trailer brakes.

Steve

 

Sorry missed your question. It is very secure. Also, the wheels spin freely off ground. Thx

 

Steve, just got to the camp site (actually the real Laura wilder's homestead). I know I have to take care of this business while the wife and kids went around enjoying this very nice place. Will report back soon on the blue wire measurement.

 

Steve. Here is the measurement.
Controller max =5 fully activated reads 5v, 2.8a

Controller not activated: 0v, 0A

I'd assume that the controller is fine.

Also, someone suggested the leveled of the controller. Level vs fully tilted no difference. So the controller must be fully electronic

 

About the bearing and drum. I did not get to do it before the trip. Actually never since I get it last year. I know that I should of. That's just one of the thing, before you actually did it you always dread it and put it off.

I tried to pull the drum last night. It won't budge. Any tricks? I can try it again tonight. The fact that the Hub is not hot only the outmost part of the drum make me think that the bearing is not the problem

 

Check your brake switch on the pedal. If it is barely making contact it could be sending a flickering signal to the brakes. Or the switch could be bad.

 

I am going to continue to suggest you go with the obvious here. The unusual are possible, but rare.

I certainly sounds like your controller is fine. They almost always are, particularly the aftermarket controllers. You can look up your controller on your laptop to see if it is electronic.

The only way I know to get a drum free that is stuck tightly is to use a torch to heat it carefully. Maybe someone has found another way, I just never have. The reason I focus on a possible bearing issue is I know folks tend to avoid them. It is a pain to lube them, so it seldom gets done. Since I read in your earlier post you had already backed your star adjusters all the way off, it is hard to make a case your shoes are dragging and I also see where you posted the wheels turned freely, again against a static load so something has to be happening while you are moving.

Does it make any sense to stop by an RV dealership or check your computer and see if there is a certified mobile RV technician in the area? What you are describing here is something I get calls on all the time, usually late at night when a bearing goes along the Interstate when things are so far gone new parts are necessary. Might also be something mechanical with a shoe sticking.

I am betting against an electrically issue at this point as they are far more likely to cause activation problems as in failure to activate, anything else being rare with them.

Good luck,

Steve