Is there a torque spec on the ipr valve and what is best place to attempt to position the connector tower? Mine is 2004 F250,CC, long bed, automatic trans. 172k on the clock.
Not even sure I can get a torque wrench in there: went at it by degas bottle removal, FICM removal, FICM ground wire and last stud on intake removed. Snuck a IPR socket, 3/8" swivel and 6"extension to get it out-Screen was gone on old IPR valve. No metal shavings or particles, probed around inside HPOP cover for plastic parts or old screen using some dental picks and nothing.
Got new valve installed; connector tower for ipr positioned straight up but man it's close to y-pipe, not sure that's a good thing? Pig tail has good foil insulation and the velcro wrap is in decent shape, just curious what others think,suggest.
My truck has been down a while and thats the last thing I need to get it correct- I hope!!! All intellegent responses are welcome- I'll post back the results and pictures if anyone has an interest. Did Sinister egr cooler, new oil cooler, and had a no start even after filling her through the filter housing. Pulled ICP and she ran like a top for about three minutes, then no more start. Sure hope this will fix here. Again thanks to all on this forum, without the knowledge base and experiance here, I wouldnt be this close to completion.

 

19-21 ft/lb with the connector pointing straight down. Standard torque wrench is pretty much impossible with the intake manifold in the way.

Pretty common to trash the IPR screen after significant work. Screen pushes in so any missing pieces are inside the IPR. If you can't account for significant pieces of it and still have HPO issues you may have to replace IPR.

 

Rusty thank you for the reply! Screen on old IPR was gone, as was the plastic cap that holds screen on IPR valve tip. My concern was where that debris went. I've got the new valve installed, torque wrench not accessable but got close to your reccomendation i think. Dont think I have a HPOP issue cause she ran good after build, but agree that bad HPOP will trash valve. Think i got junk in the oil cooler valley when it was apart, even though I tried to suction all of it out, Old strainer under cooler had a couple screen panels mssing. thanks again man, should know the results here in another 30 mins and i'll post back.

 

Good luck! I've seen this before even on my own truck! I thought it was spotless when i put it back together (new screen too). Drove ok for a week or so an noticed cold ICP value creeping up. Pulled ICP and screen was pushed in and had some trash on it. Lucky it wasn't broken. Put a new screen in and was good to go.

 

Got the ipr valve installed, and everything back together, topped the fluids off and truck started first crank with icp connected. Sure hope thats the end of that saga. Let it run for about 15 mins and she didnt build any back pressure beyond normal in the degas bottle. Hooked up the scanner and got back a PO299 (Turbo underboost) P2263(turbo boost peerformance) P1408 (EGR flow out of range) on the KOER test. I left the y-pipe loose on the pass. side exhaust manifold to install turbo so i sure hope that cures the turbo codes once i snug it up. Any ideas about the Egr flow issue- I didnt replace the egr valve just cleaned it up- Did have a hydrolock condition prior to build and upgrades, just curious if that killed the EGR valve. Thanks in advance, Patrick.

 

Y-pipe could fix the turbo codes.
I would suggest checking the IAT2 sensor in the passenger side intake manifold rail. Here's a before/after pic of mine. Didn't have any codes but this sensor is a major player in determining EGR flow and can get pretty gunked up. May not be the issue but quick easy thing to check.


I didn't use any chemicals on this, just a gun cleaning pick and a small brush.

 

Wow Rusty, thats so cool. GR8 pictures and advice, thank you sir. I'll bet mine is in bad shape, when I got my intake off it litery had chunks of carbon build up in it and on egr valve. Took me about $7 in quarters to clean it at carwash and it still turned my solvent tank black when I cleaned it at home. Going to cinch up the y-pipe and check that IAT2 sensor. Hope u have a nice fathers day and I'll post back results later. Reps ur way, Patrick.

 

Glad to help (maybe ) good luck and have a good Fathers Day yourself.

 

Back at it after nice family dinner with the kids,mom and brother. Darn the luck, my IAT2 on the '04 isn't on pass. side it's on drivers side manifold directly under fuel filter bowl and under wire loom for inj. harness routed along oil filter housing that feeds juice to pass. side injectors. Ain't nothing easy about these 6-oh's I'll post when I can get the little gem out from under the tangle.

 

Alright, got the IAT2 out and it was covered in crud, cleaned it up with pick and carb cleaner and reinstalled. Cinched up the y-pipe and drove the truck about 35-40 mins to ck boost,etc. Scanned codes and same stuff: PO299 and P2263> turbo performance codes, PO1408>EGR circ. Going to ck wiring to egr valve-if thats ok I may need to replace the valve.
Question on the boost @wot scangauge reported mid sevens for psi, after several other WOT's it got as high as 10.6 psi but never above it. While running at 70-80 mph and then WOT, ECT temp came up to 242 and ck guage light came on. let off the pedal and it returned to 220 within a minute or so. Not sure what that's all about. Do you know what is normal for boost psi? May need to clean and repair my turbo. Tired of wrenching on it but I want it right before I return it to my crew. THnaks for all your help,Patrick.

 

You're thinking right. It's not boosting like it should and it's running hotter than it should be. Did you monitor oil temp? With the new oil and EGR coolers it shouldn't have a temp issue. Double check codes in the ScanGauge and see if if the cold temps are close. Hopefully it just a sensor (ECT). Might have a bit of air in the cooling system. Did the level drop much on the check ride?

 

Level in degas bottle didnt change. Not sure what normal temps should be, but at 91 degrees ambient temp,she gets to 220 fairly quickly when im trying several wot's to ck boost. Wish i knew what normal boost is supposed to be given X rpm. Just got the scanguage and have to program Xguage to get my EOT/ Trying some turbo tips from the tech folder; 1St is relearn strategy, then cleaning VGT actuator, if that doesn't get it I'll pull turbo and follow rebuild threads I suppose. Thanks again for your help Rusty, I'l post results as I progress.

 

220 after WOT seems normal but 242 on the highway is too high. I commonly see boost around 24ish just romping on it to blow it out occasionally and can get maybe 28 (the factory gauge isn't real specific) on a hill at higher rpm with the hammer down. Something is wrong with only 10ish. MAP sensor is a little box on the firewall with a rubber hose going to the intake manifold. You may want to pull the hose at the intake and make sure it and the nipple it slides onto is clear. I was going to move on to the EBP sensor but this truck is an'03 so it's not reading that sensor. Unless it hasn't been Flashed......has this truck been to the dealership in the last few years? EBP is inferred from other sensors after a certain flash # not sure of the date. Maybe someone else can help on that. Also, I don't mean to side track you from the VGT actuator, that's a good possibility as well.

Here's a good video on the turbo if you haven't seen it.

 

Rusty, gr8 video, thanks again! I dailed in the new scanguageII to read EOT,VGT cycle and some other stuff, Sure enough the VGT cycle hung at around 85% I'll bet the hydrolock condition and the fact that i didnt get into the rebuild for two months allowed the unison ring and vanes to sieze up. I'll post back when I get turbo off, apart and can inspect for damage. Thanks again.

 

I was searching the forum for the answer to the positioning of the connector. Your post says it needs to point straight down. Mine is pointing straight up at said torque. How do I get it to point downward? oops I found the answer thank you...