Cheap Dash Mod
#1
Cheap Dash Mod
So a while back I installed an aftermarket headunit and I absolutely have hated the metra dash piece. I had tried painting it but never got it to match well enough. Also the little LCD was useless for anything besides the temperature. So I did something similar to another user I had seen. He covered the lcd up with some leather in his harley davidson edition.
So here is my take with some vinyl wrap.
Before.
After.
So here is my take with some vinyl wrap.
Before.
After.
#3
#5
I know its a little late now but pac audio makes a connector for an amp. It has 2 sets of rca's out and a remote power. I bought it for mine and it just plugs in between the factory harness and the radio. Works great. I run a 1500 watt amp and 2 12" subs with it. All off the factory radio so I didnt lose any sync/steering wheel functions.
#6
I know its a little late now but pac audio makes a connector for an amp. It has 2 sets of rca's out and a remote power. I bought it for mine and it just plugs in between the factory harness and the radio. Works great. I run a 1500 watt amp and 2 12" subs with it. All off the factory radio so I didnt lose any sync/steering wheel functions.
#7
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#8
I have a PAC speaker to RCA converter laying around. If you feel like paying shipping, I could probably hook you up. Assuming I can still find it. I used it on my 2010 stock head unit.
#9
#10
I know its a little late now but pac audio makes a connector for an amp. It has 2 sets of rca's out and a remote power. I bought it for mine and it just plugs in between the factory harness and the radio. Works great. I run a 1500 watt amp and 2 12" subs with it. All off the factory radio so I didnt lose any sync/steering wheel functions.
I bought the harness to keep all the steering wheel functions. On my 2010, I had used the PAC harness to provide outputs for my speaker amp and a sub amp.
Now I use the aftermarket head unit to power the speakers and provide preamps for the sub. I couldn't even imagine 2 12" subs in my supercab. My one 10" shallow mount memphis rocks my truck hard enough. I actually have to turn it down or my fillings will come loose
#11
I hear ya, I doubt I will do 2-12"s, maybe just do what you had. What all did you run for amps and how did it sound with the stock H/U? Looks like we have about the same truck? How much you think all that cost, ballpark? I just sunk a chunk of money into my Road King for pipes and air cleaner, F I programmer, service/inspection etc. Money is short this month
#12
I hear ya, I doubt I will do 2-12"s, maybe just do what you had. What all did you run for amps and how did it sound with the stock H/U? Looks like we have about the same truck? How much you think all that cost, ballpark? I just sunk a chunk of money into my Road King for pipes and air cleaner, F I programmer, service/inspection etc. Money is short this month
2010 Regular Cab:
$60 - PAC high channel to low channel RCA converter and 9 wire loom.
$250 - JL Audio Amp for speakers
$400 - Infinity AMP + 10" sub box behind seat
Keep sync and steering wheel controls.
Need to do a little research to make sure you can provide the proper number of channels for your amps. I actually ran all 4 speakers off the front channels and used the rear channels for the sub.
2013 SuperCab:
$200 - HeadUnit
$100 - PAC steering wheel controller
$250 - JL Audio Amp for Sub
$200 - Shallow Memphis 10" Sub (WAY WORTH IT)
Lose Sync but keep steering wheel controls.
Cost wise you're not talking much of a difference. However, if you're looking just to add a sub and let the stock head unit power the speakers, you could get away with the whole setup for just the cost of an AMP and Sub. In fact I have the Infinity sub/amp combo that I would sell. Shipping would probably suck.
#13
Sounds good and its clear. I run a planet audio 1500 mono block with 2 12" shallow mount memphis subs. Box is under the rear seat. My amp has a bass controller I have mounted at the very bottom under the steering wheel to the right. The spot most people mount a brake controller. The only thing I wish for is more air space for the subs. It sounds good and it thumps hard but its nothing compared to my 2 12" pioneer impp comp series w/ a 1500 audiophonics amp I had in a ported bandpass box in one of my old cars. It would rattle the roof at sonic and you could here it from almost a mile away.
I ran the typical wiring setup for the amp. Power wire (fused) to the battery, ground to the rear seat bolts, rca's to the pac audio interface and switched power to the blue lead on the pac audio. My amp is mounted behind the rear drivers side seat. I cut the carpet around the amp so it could breath and all my wires are hidden just like a professional installer would do. Me and a friend used to do stereo installs on the side back in high school. I do need to add a capacitor, I just havent got around to that yet.
I ran the typical wiring setup for the amp. Power wire (fused) to the battery, ground to the rear seat bolts, rca's to the pac audio interface and switched power to the blue lead on the pac audio. My amp is mounted behind the rear drivers side seat. I cut the carpet around the amp so it could breath and all my wires are hidden just like a professional installer would do. Me and a friend used to do stereo installs on the side back in high school. I do need to add a capacitor, I just havent got around to that yet.
#14
Sounds good and its clear. I run a planet audio 1500 mono block with 2 12" shallow mount memphis subs. Box is under the rear seat. My amp has a bass controller I have mounted at the very bottom under the steering wheel to the right. The spot most people mount a brake controller. The only thing I wish for is more air space for the subs. It sounds good and it thumps hard but its nothing compared to my 2 12" pioneer impp comp series w/ a 1500 audiophonics amp I had in a ported bandpass box in one of my old cars. It would rattle the roof at sonic and you could here it from almost a mile away.
I ran the typical wiring setup for the amp. Power wire (fused) to the battery, ground to the rear seat bolts, rca's to the pac audio interface and switched power to the blue lead on the pac audio. My amp is mounted behind the rear drivers side seat. I cut the carpet around the amp so it could breath and all my wires are hidden just like a professional installer would do. Me and a friend used to do stereo installs on the side back in high school. I do need to add a capacitor, I just havent got around to that yet.
I ran the typical wiring setup for the amp. Power wire (fused) to the battery, ground to the rear seat bolts, rca's to the pac audio interface and switched power to the blue lead on the pac audio. My amp is mounted behind the rear drivers side seat. I cut the carpet around the amp so it could breath and all my wires are hidden just like a professional installer would do. Me and a friend used to do stereo installs on the side back in high school. I do need to add a capacitor, I just havent got around to that yet.
#15
Sounds like I have found my next mod, when the funds allow it (Un)Fortunately, the wife likes to sit on the back of the Road King so that takes priority during riding season, and the stock mufflers needed to go for some of those sweet sweet fishtails lol. Saving my change... Thanks for the advice/replies!
EDIT: I usually keep my driver side back seat in the UP position, easy to throw my lunchbox, hardhat and other work stuff there. I guess I'd need to mount the sub box behind the seat or elsewhere as I use the back floor space
EDIT: I usually keep my driver side back seat in the UP position, easy to throw my lunchbox, hardhat and other work stuff there. I guess I'd need to mount the sub box behind the seat or elsewhere as I use the back floor space