So, before I install my lift, wheels, tires, and mudflaps (currently waiting for all the parts to get here), I wanted to go over a few things to make sure I've got everything up to date. I figured this would give some of the new people a chance to see as well along with some of the vets find anything I may have missed along the way. I figured I would do it bit by bit like I did last time to keep things organized as well. So here goes:

Oiling system -

Recommended:

Drain and refill oiling system with Rotella T6 5W-40
Add Rev-X or Hot Shot Secret to oiling system
Motorcraft oil filter
Motorcraft oil filter cap
Fumoto oil drain valve
Motorcraft updated oil cooler
Motorcraft updated STC fitting
Motorcraft updated HPOP screen
Motorcraft updated dummy plugs
Motorcraft updated stand pipes
Motorcraft updated turbo oil feed line
Motorcraft updated turbo oil return line
Motorcraft updated oil dipstick
Motorcraft updated IPR screen

Optional:
Install aftermarket metal oil filter cap (BPD, Sinister)
Install aftermarket metal oil fill cap (BPD, Sinister)
Install aftermarket bypass oil filter setup (BPD, Sinister, Amsoil)
Install aftermarket oil cooler assembly (IPR or BPD)
Install aftermarket high pressure oil pump screen (IPR)
Install aftermarket high pressure oil delivery system (Diesel Site)
Install aftermarket high pressure oil pump (03-04 trucks) (Diesel Site)
Upgrade to 05-up high pressure oil pump (03-04 trucks) (OEM parts)

I think about everyone on here knows about using Rotella T6, Rev-X, OEM filters, OEM filter cap, and a Fumoto drain valve, so I'm not gonna go into that. Hot Shot Secret is also preferred by some people, so it really seems to be just a preference thing anymore. The updated STC fitting, HPOP screen, dummy plugs, stand pipes, turbo feed and return lines, IPR screen, and dipstick all make sense. They were parts that were re-designed and updated by Ford. They are things that should be installed during an oil cooler job as most of them can easily be accessed during this process. As far as the updated parts thing - from what I can tell none of those parts made it onto any 6.0 besides the oil feed line. Late 06 and 07's had them from what I've read along with possibly the dipstick. I know without a doubt the updated oil cooler, STC fitting, HPOP screen, dummy plugs, stand pipes, oil return line, and IPR screen never made it on a 6.0. They were all parts that were created after the 6.0 finished its production run. Also, just to clarify, the HPOP screen is the same as the oil cooler screen. Some people just refer to it differently. The updated oil cooler kit (11 row) comes with the updated (stainless) oil cooler screen. Also, the updated STC fitting kit (stronger) comes with the updated (stainless) IPR screen as well.

Now, about the optional stuff. There are the optional metal caps out there. They are generally for the guys who are adding accessories like oil temp gauges, bypass oil filtration setups, etc. Generally the plastic caps don't have any issues unless someone is over-tightening them. I myself can't justify the price of the metal caps for looks-only. The bypass oil filter setup seems to just be one of those extra "things" you can install if you have the money. These trucks aren't fans of extended drain intervals, and it's been shown the OEM filter does a perfectly adequate job of filtering the oil, especially if you are using a good oil like Rotella T6. There's quite a few people out there who advise against the bypass filters as no matter what the 6.0 shears oil. Diesel Site just recently release the high pressure oil delivery system and in theory it's cool idea. I myself will wait for some reviews before I invest the 1200 dollars into it. I would highly recommend the Diesel Site HPOP for the 03-04.5 guys who need to replace their pump as the OEM pump has a much higher failure rate than the 04.5-up guys. Also, you have the option to upgrade to the later pump as well. IPR recently released the extreme duty oil cooler screen and although it makes sense, the OEM oil cooler screen was updated to a stainless steel mesh to prevent issues. To me the IPR screen is going to be more of bling item as I haven't heard of the updated oil cooler screen failing unless there were other issues with the truck.

The oil cooler debate is a very heavy one around here. You have 3 setups generally - OEM, IPPR's remote setup, and BPD's air/oil setup. The OEM setup has been shown to work perfect with proper cooling system maintenance, and everyone here knows how it works. Ford has an updated oil cooler out now, so a lot of people choose to simply replace it for peace of mind. IPPR has what appears to be a great setup, but has draw-backs. It doesn't really provide any additional oil cooling ability, just makes it easier to replace the oil cooler down the road. It requires you to run the 100% filtration setup and makes it harder to perform normal oil changes, plus it's a bit pricey and hasn't really been proven well. BPD's setup is great and works extremely well, but you lose the ability to warm the oil using the cooling system and it may not be a good idea for those of us in very cold weather, plus it's VERY costly.

Here's what my list looks like:

Perform oil pressure, oil temperature test, and oil consumption test
Perform routine oil change and inspection using Rotella T6 oil and Motorcraft OEM oil filter (every 5,000 miles)
Motorcraft oil filter housing cap (includes seal) (85,923)
Fumoto oil drain valve (includes seal) (85,923)
Motorcraft updated oil dipstick (86,264)
Motorcraft oil pressure switch (includes seal) (81,362)
Motorcraft updated oil cooler kit (includes seals, screen, and cooler)(89,717)
Motorcraft updated HPOP STC fitting kit (includes seals, screen, hardware, bracket, and fittings) (89,717)
Motorcraft updated high pressure dummy rail plugs (includes seals) (89,717)
Motorcraft updated high pressure stand pipes (includes seals) (89,717)
Motorcraft updated turbo oil feed line (includes seals and hardware) (89,717)
Motorcraft updated turbo oil drain line (includes seals) (89,717)

Currently I'm on the fence between Hot Shot Secret or REV-X. Going to do a bit more reading. Currently using REV-X but have thought about switching.

 

And just to really get things rolling for today.

Exhaust system -

Here's what I've got:

IPR passenger side up pipe (89,717)
Motorcraft passenger side up-pipe bolts (89,717)
MBRP 4” aluminized steel single side off-road no muffler exhaust system (includes piping, hangers, and clamps) (89,717)
MBRP 4” to 6” 12” long dual walled polished exhaust tip (includes clamp and pipe) (89,717)
Gauge to monitor exhaust gas temperature (I'm using Glowshift presently)

I went with the 4" exhaust mostly due to price as there's really no performance gain from the 5" exhaust. Most people get the 5" setup just for sound really as it provides a deeper tone than the 4", but it's also about double the price. There's tons of ways to do the exhaust - side exit, stacks, single rear exit, dual rear exit - it's all just preference. The main thing performance wise is just removing the cat and muffler and having the 4" downpipe. I simply chose MBRP for their pricing and excellent product. There's many other companies out there to go through, just do your research first. You can also get it in different grades of metal and finishes, once again it's preference. The up-pipe will most likely come with your EGR delete, so whatever company you choose will dictate that. I like IPR's up-pipe because of the 1" flange and the weld quality and I went with their GEN 2 EGR delete as well. There's many different companies who supply pyrometer gauges to measure exhaust gas temp but the recommended install location has always been the driver's side manifold right before the up-pipe section. You can do digital or analog gauges for it or you can get a temperature probe for whatever monitor you're using. I myself just prefer the analog needle sweep and went with Glowshift setup.

 

I'm guessing your fuel psi is good? What about the updated fuel pressure spring (blue spring mod)?

 

Wow Cody, quite a list there!!! Great summary. Could prob add a metal cold side cac tube also. I might've missed it in your list tho. The riff raff boots should b on there too. However I'd just have them on hand for when the turbo connection one splits. Cause we all know it will eventually. I've actually never seen the lower hot side boot break,, I'm sure someone has tho.

 

Getting to there. That was just the oiling system and exhaust system. Fuel system and cooling systems are coming up soon. Just wanted to review the oiling and exhaust systems first.

Thanks Anthony! I'll be getting to the intake system components here soon too and will be doing the Riff Raff boost and metal CAC tube for sure. I just wanted to do it bit by bit, but I appreciate your 6.0 knowledge as always.

 

Is this your list?, or is this a list of what should/could be recommended to other members?

 

Both. I think it gives a good guideline of things to take care of if you want to go above and beyond.

 

IMO, the IPR oil cooler relocation kit is worthless. Way too many bad reviews, and unanswered questions and no data to support oil psi and flow ratings. So why even mention using a junk set-up.


You might want to breakdown your list for other members, not all OEM updated parts are needed for all years. Just a suggestion.

Aftermarket metal oil filter cap, NUC Motorsports- I have measured and compared this cap to the OEM cap, the NUC is spec'd to OEM.

 

I will agree the IPR remote oil cooler setup does suck, but I'm mentioning for the sake of saying it's out there. I would never run it either. Almost all of the updated OEM parts did not make it onto production vehicles, they were things added in after the fact. The only piece I know of that may have made it on a truck was the oil drain line, otherwise it's all non-updated. The metal oil filter cap is fine if you have a reason to use it, otherwise there's really no point to it.

 

I'm just mentioning the OEM updates by year because, when a newbie with a 03-04 reads this, they don't have a STC fitting, standpipes or dummy plugs to update. See where I'm going with this. Not all years will get the same updated parts.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post3974497

DTS Articles - Coffee Table Books


Why even mention the IPR remote cooler if you wouldn't even trust it in your truck, let alone a newbies.

Lack of info or wrong info isn't gonna help members.

I'm not busting your shoes, just wanna be sure you get the best info out to the members.

Sorry for the derail, Rich

 

I guess you are right, didn't think about the 03-04 trucks having the different HPO system. I at least do have the upgrades listed for the 03-04 trucks, just that I don't have the year range written for the 05-up HPO parts. Like I said, I mention the IPR oil cooler setup because some people have been curious about it, but it's been well documented at this point that it's not good and that's why I don't recommend it at all.

 

Cooling system -

Recommended:

Cooling system flush with CLR and distilled water
Refill cooling system with Final Charge ELC and distilled water (50/50 mix)
DFuser coolant filter kit
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle cap
Motorcraft thermostat assembly
Fumoto block drain valves
Motorcraft block drain plug o-rings for Fumoto drain valves
IPR Research Gen 2 EGR delete kit
Motorcraft updated oil cooler
ARP head studs
Motorcraft headgaskets

Optional:
Install aftermarket EGR cooler (many different companies)
Install stealth EGR delete (Motorcraft)
BPD billet aluminum water pump
BPD billet aluminum radiator
IPR coolant filtration setup (100% filtration, not bypass)

I chose CLR over VC-9 or Restore or Restore+ simply because it's more readily available, cheaper, and I keep bottles of it at home for different uses (plumbing stuff, clearing clogged heater cores, etc.). I chose Final Charge ELC because it's stocked at O'Reilly Auto Parts and is readily available as well. The DFuser coolant kit was my choice out of all the units out there due to price, including 3 filters, and being easily rebuildable if needed. Some of you may have the updated de-gas bottle and cap. Easy way to tell is if your bottle has a sticker for the levels instead of the markings on the plastic and if your cap has the white sticker compared to being all black. Thermostat is replaced during a flush as it has to be removed anyways. The Fumotos are super handy, but you may have issues with the block drains stripping out and you will need to use o-rings instead of the flat washers they come with. I chose to delete the EGR because we have no emissions testing, plus I like the idea of not needing to worry about the cooler and I chose the IPR setup because it has a one-piece setup instead of the two-piece setup and has no welds to leak and deletes the blue silicone hose. For those of you that have emissions testing you can get an aftermarket EGR cooler that functions better than the factory unit. For those people who have emissions testing that is visual only you can simply weld the ends on your factory cooler and reinstall it for a stealth delete. We all know about the updated oil cooler, ARP head studs, and using OEM headgaskets, no need to go into that. It's been shown that the OEM headgaskets don't have issues if installed correctly whereas the aftermarket options have been having issues even with correct installation.

As far as the optional things - they are not things you should tear apart the engine just to install. More-so they are upgraded parts to replace parts that may eventually fail. The water pump and radiator are not known common failure items whereas everything else I listed is. The 05 and up had an updated water pump and they very rarely fail. If you do need to replace a water pump or radiator though these would be great items to install. I myself do not like the 100% filtration setup, but some do, so it's up to you if you want to do a by-pass filtration or inline.

Here's what my list currently looks like:

Perform cooling system pressure test, flush using CLR calcium, lime, and rust remover, and fill using FINAL CHARGE Global Extended Life coolant/antifreeze and Great Value distilled water (50/50) (86,264)
DFuser coolant filter kit (includes hoses, fittings, filters, clamps, hardware, and filter mount) (86,264)
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle (87,014)
Motorcraft updated de-gas bottle cap (includes seal) (87,014)
Motorcraft thermostat assembly (includes seal and housing) (86,264)
IPR GEN2 EGR cooler delete kit (includes bypass manifold, up pipe, and gaskets) (89,717)

 

Could you explain more about upgrading to an 04.5 and up HPOP???

My recollection is that the new HPOP is 05 and up (not 04.5) .............. The HPOP changed to a V4 style piston pump (June 29, 2004 production). for the 2005 engines. Also, that it is not all that feasible for the 03-04 engines to be fitted with an 05 and up HPOP.

 

I have seen it done and it is possible to do, but IMO not worth the effort or money. I myself would simply recommend just installing the Diesel Site pump to replace the factory one and leaving it at that. It's the only weak part of that system. The parts list to do the conversion is expensive and intensive.

 

I believe it involves changing the branch tubes and in that, I agree ....... it is not worth doing.