IDK much about your van or what you use it for but maybe this is a good reason/excuse to swap it to 8 lug to use a sterling 10.25FF, a MUCH better axle.

 

i used to have an f150 with the 8.8 in it, the differential decomposed, was replaced, and about a year later it destroyed the bearing surface at the right wheel end, and leaked out the pinion shaft as well. i decided that it would cost more to repair than to replace with a better axle. so i bought a better axle from the junkyard and drove away happy.

with the fight you're getting from it, this might really be your better option

 

Have not given up fight..... will try again to remove bolt tomorrow.
This van is a conversion that has served us well for camping. Just put a lot of $$ into new tires (Michelin MS2 235/75R15.)...not to mention already buying bearings, seals, brakes, etc, etc,.....so inclined to repair if possible.

However...would appreciate specific recommendations (what years, models, part numbers?, etc) that would work for replacement. If I need to track down in a junkyard, I need to know what to look for!

 

Please educate me.....if I can't get bolt out....what can I do to disassemble differential with the least trouble and cost? Someone mentioned cutting the pinion shaft....would that do it? Or...... then what?

 

The thing is, if you get a used 8.8 from a 1983 or later E150, will it be any better than what you have now?

Some 1983/87 E150's and all 1975/82 E100/150's came with the Ford 9" which was a faaar better rear axle than the "shearing pin" 8.8 ever was.

8.8 favorite swap for 1948/56 F1/F100 pickups replacing ancient Spicer(Dana) 44. Every time I read this jazz in 1948/56 forum, I cringe.

How long will it be before the pin shears off?

 

Would this work? 1985 31 SPLINE 350 RATIO
or this 1986 4.10R. 35 spl.
Guess it is obvious I am new to swaps. HAHAHA

 

If the bolt breaks the next step is a drill, try and track down a cobalt steal left twist drill bit and likely a right angle drill.


Before that though if the head rounds off too much next thing I reach for is vice grips. If you take some vice grips and rock them left and right you'll be working it loose and making two flats on the head where you can then grab it better.

As far as replacement you need to figure out your gear ratio then if you have to stay 5 lug then your only choice is another 8.8. The 9" is a FANTASTIC axle but doesn't have the vehicle speed sensor your computer needs to control the transmission.

Bummer about just buying new tires and brakes, none of that stuff will work with a 10.25, even the tires cause a 15" wheel won't fit over the brakes.

 

i thought about that myself, but i wasn't sure if 93 had a VSS in the axle or in the back of the tranny case where a speedo cable would be on older ones.

for the axle swap, there are a few points to consider when choosing an axle
1) fitment - make sure its from a compatible vehicle. i believe you can swap between e and f series, but confirm before you buy
2) axle model - another 8.8 is gonna be the same quality as what you have, but hopefully not as beat up yet
3) gear ratio - start by identifying what you have, either from the code on the doorframe sticker, or from the tag that was hopefully under 2 of the diff cover bolts. if you're happy with how the van drove, stay close to what you have. if you go with a deeper ratio (big number such as 4.10), you'll have more grunt off the line, but turn higher RPMs on the highway. if you go for a taller ratio (small number such as 2.50), you'll have the opposite

as for having just bought tires, it might not be the end of the world to run your current new tires on the front, and some tires in the new size on 8 lug rims on the rear, and just end up storing the other pair of 5 lug tires for a year or whatever until the others wear out, or maybe you'll get a relatively fair price on craigslist for them


for fighting your current axle, remember that if you break off a drill bit in the bolt, you'll never get it out, because it'll destroy every drill bit that touches the broken one. and as you can see, trying to drill into that bolt is gonna be a nasty angle any way you look at it. so i would suggest drilling into the end of the cross shaft, starting with a small hole in the center, then one directly over the bolt position. enlarge both holes, the edge one until the edge of the hole is nearly touching the body of the carrier, and the center one until its overlapping the other one a bit. from there, you should have the flexibility and confidence to drill through the bolt from the side there, with the "easy" access the end of the shaft provides, and having the 2 overlapping holes gives you a fair chance of extracting any broken bits you may have. obviously, once you cut through the bolt this way, you'll be free to drive the shaft out. i wouldn't even try drilling from the bolt head until the carrier is out of the axle and sitting on the bench

 

Yeah I don't know them well enough to say one way or the other, I'd lean towards yes but IDK. If it is in the axle and he can move it to the tranny that would work to.

FWIW IF the VSS is in the tranny or can be moved AND he can find a 9" to fit I know that the drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, etc are the same and all his 8.8 stuff will go right on a 9", I've done it.

 

if a VSS isn't gonna be a problem, then a 9" is the perfect answer for him

 

Not really enough info here, 85/6 could be either an 8.8 a 9" a D60 or a 10.25

We don't know what ratio you need yet.

Truck and van versions of the 8.8 and 9" are both 31 spline, car versions 28 spline

All 10.25s are 35spline, not sure on D60 but thinking yes also.

Absolutely, 100% agreed.

Are truck and van axles the same? I'm leaning towards no but can't say for sure.

 

i once put a 9" from an 80 e150 into an 86 f150 with a blown 8.8, and it fit right up with no trouble. i can't say for sure if that remains true on his 93

 

Thanks fellas!
Tried to weigh options and at this point will fight and repair this one.

Let me get clear....the pinion shaft MUST be removed by 'whatever means' (likely drilling end of shaft)to remove the carrier. Then pull the C clips, pull axles, remove the 2 bearing caps and pull the carrier to either get the remaining bolt out or replace.

I should note that at almost 200k I was not noticing any rear end issue until noted seal leak and the slight play.

Even if I have to replace carrier, center shaft, and C clips, figure it is the cheapest and easiest way to go. Especially what is already invested. Might get lucky (ya, right) and not even have to replace carrier.
We will not be putting thousands of miles on it at this point anyway. However SAFE is good!

Sure appreciate the help!

 

Yes except when you say pinion shaft I think of the pinion but I'm sure you mean the cross pin. You just have to get the axles out somehow and that is the way to do it.

However if I was you I would first very seriously look at the VSS question. If the VSS is not an issue then I don't see any reason not to just install a 9". Should be close time and money wise and you come out very ahead with a much better axle.

 

for pricing comparison, a used axle from a full-service junkyard usually costs about 200 bucks for a complete axle. from a self-service junkyard, its closer to 100. you'll spend that much just in the parts you have to destroy to get this thing apart