5.4l 2002 f350 (Oil recommendations - Air Pressure Rec's)

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Old 06-03-2013, 01:16 PM
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5.4l 2002 f350 (Oil recommendations - Air Pressure Rec's)

Hello All,

Going to start doing my own oil changes again on my recently purchased used 2002 f350 5.4l gas v8 4x4. reg cab / 8 foot bed just shy of 118k miles.

I do not plan on doing any towing just carrying roofing/chimney supplies and ladders. Rarely over a few hundred pounds in the bed.

What type and weight are you all using for long life on the engine. I am old school when it comes to heavier is better, BUT I HAVE read that the heavy weights are bad with these engines.

I will be changing oil every 3000-5000 miles (which is really best?) and would also like recommendations on a good oil filter.

I do not burn any oil. LONG TERM ENGINE LIFE is my MAIN priorty. F350 currently is 1 mile away from 118,000 miles

I have 328k on my f150 and would like to get that out of my f350. Always had my mechanic service the f150, my father ha been driving it the past few years and he has it done at walmart.

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I am running 265/75r16 E rated Firestone Transforce AT. I am happy with the tires but I DO NOT know what pressure to run them at. \

The mechanic put them at 55 front and 36 rear - as that is what they were when I bought the truck. I raised the rears to 45 as I have heard I shouldn't run them that low. They feel a little stiffer.

What pressure is best for gas mileage with NO LOAD? I run with no tailgate and lash supplies down with a moto gate. My main concerns are LEAST AMOUNT OF WEAR on Tranny / parts and better gas mileage.

Thanks for all of the help.

JC
 
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:36 PM
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Many opinions abound on this oil subject so get ready for the onslaught.
I personally buy most any brand name that is on sale when I'm getting ready to change mine. Unless you work the truck hard everyday, no need to spend the extra $$$ on full synthetic oil. A good filter, of course, is the Motorcraft brand. It is made by Purolator so if you find them on sale, they are OK too. Most people don't like Fram because they are painted Chevrolet orange (and something about cardboard inside).
As far as oil weight, I only use 5W20 if it is a synthetic blend, otherwise I will use 5W30. Anything thicker will cause knocking on start-up, even more so in cold weather as it takes many seconds for the thick stuff to flow all the way up to the cams/lifters/followers. I worked at a Lincoln Mercury dealer in Florida when the Triton motors first appeared (1991) and we were using 10W40 in everything. MANY MANY complains from the old folks about rattling on start-up so the old-school service manager had to break down and add new tanks for the light-weight oils recommended for the newer engines.
As far as air pressure goes, I ran 50 to 60 psi when unloaded or not towing on my '01 F350 SRW with the same tires and they lasted 65k (Michelins). When I would hook up the 28' 5th wheel camper I would pump the rears up to full pressure (75 psi I think?) and everything was honky dory!
Good luck with the truck. Many miles to you!
 
  #3  
Old 06-05-2013, 12:14 PM
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Jameson: Good advice from Paul.

This is just my personal opinion-->Nothing More!

Oil Filters-->Motorcraft is a great filter and at WM their $4.
Oil-------->Todays oils are all really good. You can use any of the most popular Name Brand oils with 3K to 5K mile OCI and acheive 300K miles as long as you keep every thing else in good working condition. Esp the Air Filter! & Fuel Filter! Any Crank Case Filter!=PCV As well as EGR if equipt.

If you only drive in town-->All stop and go driving & never giving the 5.4L a chance to fully warm up? I would use 3K OCI.

If you drive 1/2 stop and go and 1/2 highway? I would go 5K mile OCI.

Now if 3/4 of the miles will be at highway speeds? You can easily go 7K mile OCI. Highway miles are very easy on oil and motor. Unless your towing or redline.

Towing is a totally different monster. If any is done? I would not go past 5K mile OCI.

I will throw this in just for *****s and Giggles. My sons 08 has 181K miles on her. She has been fed 5W-30 semi-synthetic since her first oil change. Between 7K mile OCI the 3V only used about 1/4 of a qt of oil.

For this summer oil change we switched to a full synthetic-->5qts M1 0W-40 and 2qts of M1 HM 5W-30 which are M1 2 most robust oils. {With a Amsoil Filter}. With 1year OCI in mind. Since 3/4 of the miles will be interstate-->Back and Forth to College from my Son.

At start ups there is NO rattle-NO Shaking-NO Clatter. Very smooth and Fast startups. This 5.4L 3V really seems to approve of this combo. No sluggishness what so ever-->Cruising in town or on the interstate.

Mind you this is just our experience nothing more.
Ours is a 08 yours is a 02.

You need to decide whether you are wanting to go with a synthetic? semi-synthetic? or regular conventional oil?

Next is maybe one of the High Mileage oils might come into play as well.
Valvoline HM and Mobil Super HM are both excellent oils.

There is alot to consider if your **** about oil like myself. If not? Just buy what ever is on sale and go with it. My only suggestion is use a Motorcraft filter.
 

Last edited by SyN; 06-05-2013 at 12:16 PM. Reason: 123456789
  #4  
Old 06-06-2013, 04:06 PM
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I did an oil change with Mobil 1 5w20 full synthetic and used the Motorcraft filter yesterday, everything was around $30 at walmart since the 5qt bottle was on sale and the 1 qt was discounted as well.

Oil that was removed was fairly black but not sludgy, it was warm so I cant guess at the viscosity but It DOES NOT seem like a heavy weight oil was used before I purchased it (at least on this last change out of my posession). The old oil flowed out just fine but I was surprised at the amount of oil that came down from the filter when I removed it. See below....

It had a nasty fram oil filter on there - yuk! It was a little WORK getting the old filter off, mostly because I turned it the wrong way at first with the wrench and collapsed the filter halfway up. LUCKILY I could still grab the filter UP high closest to the top and got it turned the proper way and off she came. The wrench is a cheap one from walmart and I realize why. The "clamp" part actually punctured the filter and OIL SPILLED everywhere... Would have been pretty embarrassed to have it towed to my local mechanic because I screwed up an oil change. He also would have barred me from doing any other work to the truck no matter how simple! . Lubed the new filter seal and poured a few drops inside, screwed in nice and tight with my hand. Wiped off with a rag and screwed another 1/8th of a turn or so tight. I have done some reading and will not use anything but the stock motorcraft filter. From what I have heard nothing seems to do any better only worse.

Since changing the oil, and it ran smooth before, i feel it runs a little smoother and quieter now. I was worried that perhaps they had used a heavy weight oil to hide some engine noises. When I started her up she sounded great! I had a few hose clamps that I used to fix the exhaust heat shield rattle so now I can really hear everything that is coming from the front end better.

Very relieved that I got through this OK! I haven't done my own oil changes in YEARS, mostly because I have been driving sedans and I don't like being under a JACKED up vehicle. It is so nice to be able to slide a couple jack stands for insurance and just squeak myself under the truck to do this now.

I am going to work on replacing all of the air filters that I can easily do myself.


Thanks for all of the help.

JC
 
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