'86 5.0 EFI Emissions help??
#1
'86 5.0 EFI Emissions help??
I bought my bronco a little while ago with intent to turn it into a rock crawler. Since I'm gonna crawl with it, i made sure to get EFI. However, I need it to be street legal to do so, so I just did safety and emissions.
I failed.
Horribly.
I fixed all safety problems, and passed.
For emissions, I replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, ran sea foam through the gas and the intake, ran that tank through, filled up with premium, put in octane boost, checked the timing, (currently 14 btdc- i know that's not good, but i thought it would help emissions of i kept it there) and heated up the engine very well (pathetic bronco street racing) and retested.
I still failed, in all 4 emission categories.
All the plugs were in good condition when I took them out, normal wear.
Engine runs very well, but burns oil upon starting. (Valve seal?)
I don't know what else to do. Tomorrow I'll time it to 11-12 btdc but I have no other ideas. With all the crap I did to it, I'd think it would pass unless there's something very wrong, but if so, I wouldn't expect it to run so well.
Anyone have any ideas?
I failed.
Horribly.
I fixed all safety problems, and passed.
For emissions, I replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, ran sea foam through the gas and the intake, ran that tank through, filled up with premium, put in octane boost, checked the timing, (currently 14 btdc- i know that's not good, but i thought it would help emissions of i kept it there) and heated up the engine very well (pathetic bronco street racing) and retested.
I still failed, in all 4 emission categories.
All the plugs were in good condition when I took them out, normal wear.
Engine runs very well, but burns oil upon starting. (Valve seal?)
I don't know what else to do. Tomorrow I'll time it to 11-12 btdc but I have no other ideas. With all the crap I did to it, I'd think it would pass unless there's something very wrong, but if so, I wouldn't expect it to run so well.
Anyone have any ideas?
#2
Pull the codes and write them down for each area. Warm the engine first.
KOEO
CM (Continuous Memory)
KOER
Give us the results. The computer will tell where to start.
Suggested reading...
Fuel Injection Technical Library
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
KOEO
CM (Continuous Memory)
KOER
Give us the results. The computer will tell where to start.
Suggested reading...
Fuel Injection Technical Library
Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
#3
Could not have said it better than b4hntn has already. One more thing you can do is a visual inspection for anything that might be disconnected or "appears" to be missing. I realize this being your first Bronco it may not be obvious but you can always look for open vacuum lines or devices with missing electrical connections that obviously have connectors. No telling what a PO may have "tinkered with" under the hood.
(Hey guys, looky here... GS with a "low tech" suggestion).
(Hey guys, looky here... GS with a "low tech" suggestion).
#4
#6
#7
Ok, there is no Code 6. The lowest Code number is 11 (system pass). Could it be 33? This is a common one.
Code 33 - EGR valve did not open/EVP out of range. To make certain the valve does indeed open, disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve and with a separate line, apply at least 14Hg of vacuum to the valve. Release that vacuum quickly and listen for the valve to snap shut. If it does not or you don't hear it, you can carefully unseat the pintle inside the valve using a small allen key of screwdriver to lift up on the pintle through one of the holes in the lower casting for the vacuum diaphragm. Take care not to poke a hole in the diaphragm when you do or you will be spending the money to replace the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve too. Once you have verified that the valve is indeed moving (or not) either replace the valve if it is not opening or replace the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor mounted to the top of the EGR valve (three screws and an electrical connector).
Code 41 - HEGO indicated "Lean" condition (either during KOER or within the last 40 operations of the engine). The troubleshooting method for Code 41 requires a high-impedance volt meter (digital multi-meter will work) and a propane torch. Basically, you need to test the HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor to make certain it is actually outputting the proper frequency to the computer. (The test is cheaper than the sensor unless you don't have a meter and a propane torch). However, BEFORE you just replace the HEGO sensor make certain you have no vacuum leaks, the EGR plumbing, Thermactor plumbing and you have troubleshot (and fixed as necessary) any OTHER fault Codes present in the system.
Code 77 - KOER test administrator failed to perform "goose" test. This is a simple one. there is a point in time during the KOER test that you must hold the engine ROMS as close to 2000 as possible for a few seconds. If this does not happen, the system indicates that this dynamic response portion of the test procedure was not done.
Code 33 - EGR valve did not open/EVP out of range. To make certain the valve does indeed open, disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve and with a separate line, apply at least 14Hg of vacuum to the valve. Release that vacuum quickly and listen for the valve to snap shut. If it does not or you don't hear it, you can carefully unseat the pintle inside the valve using a small allen key of screwdriver to lift up on the pintle through one of the holes in the lower casting for the vacuum diaphragm. Take care not to poke a hole in the diaphragm when you do or you will be spending the money to replace the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve too. Once you have verified that the valve is indeed moving (or not) either replace the valve if it is not opening or replace the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor mounted to the top of the EGR valve (three screws and an electrical connector).
Code 41 - HEGO indicated "Lean" condition (either during KOER or within the last 40 operations of the engine). The troubleshooting method for Code 41 requires a high-impedance volt meter (digital multi-meter will work) and a propane torch. Basically, you need to test the HEGO (Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor to make certain it is actually outputting the proper frequency to the computer. (The test is cheaper than the sensor unless you don't have a meter and a propane torch). However, BEFORE you just replace the HEGO sensor make certain you have no vacuum leaks, the EGR plumbing, Thermactor plumbing and you have troubleshot (and fixed as necessary) any OTHER fault Codes present in the system.
Code 77 - KOER test administrator failed to perform "goose" test. This is a simple one. there is a point in time during the KOER test that you must hold the engine ROMS as close to 2000 as possible for a few seconds. If this does not happen, the system indicates that this dynamic response portion of the test procedure was not done.
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