I've been replacing my steering components over the past month and have fixed all the previous issues other than this one that's got me stumped. After I make a hard left the steering will pull left (very hard) until I either turn the wheel right or hit a bump. Sometimes when going immediately from a left turn to a right turn (or vice versa) I can actually feel a slight pop as it starts to pull.

The order of repairs thus far has been: new power steering pump, new inner & outer tie rod ends, professional alignment, new steering box with both lines. The shop and I both agree the ball joints are good. I've jacked my truck up by the frame and removed the wheels to check for steering/suspension play but have not been able to find any. 180k miles on the chasis.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Josh

 

My best guess would be that both front wheel bearings need to be checked. Some models also have a U-joint at the wheel end of each front drive axle that need to replaced about every 10 years or so.

 

Thanks Joe. I'll take another look at the bearings this weekend. Anyone else?

Josh

 

I think your truck has the old Twin-Traction beam (4WD) or Twin I-beam (2WD) suspension. The bushings on which those swing arms pivot will commonly wear our before 100k and should be replaced. When worn, those bushings will allow the suspension components to shift around uncontrolled which will make the alignment vary. In a truck that old, assume that if they're not new, then then they're worn out. If this isn't your primary problem, then it will contribute to it.

 

One other possibility is the steering box itself. I think it has the power steering built in, and it could be jamming the torque rod & valve, using the pump to heel the steering over and keep it going 'left'. If the steering sector was not centered on the center of steering box travel when it was all put together, you can bias in one direction.
When you installed the box, I am pretty certain that the box had to be centered by turning all in one direction, then the other, counting turn, then divide by half. That centers the box mechanism & hopefully, the internal hydraulic piston in its travel. Then the external linkage is centered around that. Hopefully the caster works out to match.
Good thoughts on the Twin I-beam bushing wear. Heavy design, but strong.
tom

 

Last weekend I had my wife turn the steering wheel back and forth while I watched the linkages and the angle arm bushings are definitely bad so I'll be replacing those. As she turned the wheel I could see them moving in and out of the bracket and also up and down in it. I'll take a better look at the twin traction beam bushings too if those are a common wear point. This problem was occurring before and after I replaced the steering box so I cant see that being a major factor. Thank you both for the good insights.

 

Just to close out this thread the problem was a bad passenger side radius arm bushing. It appeared a PO had replaced the traction beam bushings and driver side radius arm bushing but gave up on the left side when they realized they'd have to remove the exhaust or cut the rivets and drop the bracket. It steers great now but why do I feel like I'm always cleaning up after PO's?

Here's a picture of the newly replaced driver side bushing. Thanks again guys.



The bracket was a real pain to get off but I won in the end.



This shows the jacking points that worked best for me. Stands on the frame, then jacked up the wheel until the bracket holes were aligned rather than trying to muscle it into place. In all it was about a 10 hour job but considering no lift or torch I don't think that was too bad.