Front end work
#1
Front end work
So I have decided to rebuild the front end on my F-1. After a trip to Louisville last weekend that scared the (yup) outta me more than it should have...it's time to fix it.
How sloppy do these handle when everything is rebuilt or replaced? I am looking at new tie rod ends, adjuster sleeves, steering drag link rebuild, gear box rebuild/adjust, dampner...pretty much anything I can find that is worn up there (maybe an axle from Sid will sneak under there too). Also, any advice would be much appreciated. It all looks pretty straightforward and simple though...
The reason I ask is my truck has become cumbersome to drive. It scares me to roll through any busy street because I know I am one bump away from pelting someone. I am used to it, so I (seldom) drive extremely slow...but it makes any trip near impossible. I want to take my old beater on the road, see sights, and not poo my pants while praying to make it home the whole time. I shouldn't have taken it to Beatersville. Lesson learned, time to fix it.
Yall rock! Thanks
How sloppy do these handle when everything is rebuilt or replaced? I am looking at new tie rod ends, adjuster sleeves, steering drag link rebuild, gear box rebuild/adjust, dampner...pretty much anything I can find that is worn up there (maybe an axle from Sid will sneak under there too). Also, any advice would be much appreciated. It all looks pretty straightforward and simple though...
The reason I ask is my truck has become cumbersome to drive. It scares me to roll through any busy street because I know I am one bump away from pelting someone. I am used to it, so I (seldom) drive extremely slow...but it makes any trip near impossible. I want to take my old beater on the road, see sights, and not poo my pants while praying to make it home the whole time. I shouldn't have taken it to Beatersville. Lesson learned, time to fix it.
Yall rock! Thanks
#2
I don't think you'll need new adjuster sleeves, unless they are damaged. A damper isn't a help either, or necessary. With good kingpins, wheel bearings, drag link, pitman arm, and tie rod ends, as well as good tires and alignment, they are very stable beyond 60 mph. Your spring eyes and links need to be in good shape too.
#3
What Ross just said. Good shocks, the right amount of caster, all parts tight and these old trucks drive just fine at road speed. And if the brakes are right, they'll stop well. The same axle configuration is still used on heavy duty over the road trucks today. Check your spring center bolts.
#4
Good to hear. I thought new parts would help, just wasn't sure how much.
The tires are new(er) Coker Classic whitewalls. I am gonna keep em, but once I am done with this if I am not pleased with the handling I may swap them out. Spring center bolts are new as of two years ago. The springs looked real good to me...which probably don't mean much. I am in the process of buying parts now...hopefully in a few more weeks I will have everything I need. The dampner was on the axle I bought, so I left it on there. Wheel bearings are three maybe four years old...it will be good to go through all of that stuff.
Thanks a ton!!!
The tires are new(er) Coker Classic whitewalls. I am gonna keep em, but once I am done with this if I am not pleased with the handling I may swap them out. Spring center bolts are new as of two years ago. The springs looked real good to me...which probably don't mean much. I am in the process of buying parts now...hopefully in a few more weeks I will have everything I need. The dampner was on the axle I bought, so I left it on there. Wheel bearings are three maybe four years old...it will be good to go through all of that stuff.
Thanks a ton!!!
#5
i think if the dampener is bad it will make things worse. My all factory front end works great i actually like driving it. So with that said fix whats loose and worn out and you should be happy with it. Before you replace the steering box try adjusting it i'm sure there are several posts on here on how to do it
#6
Mine drives good at highway speeds, I have noticed a little more slack lately though. One thing I need to do is change the spring eye/shackle bushings and pins. That was never done on the original build. I'm sure that would tighten it up some.
I also run radial tires, not sure if that makes a difference...
I also run radial tires, not sure if that makes a difference...
#7
Mine drives good at highway speeds, I have noticed a little more slack lately though. One thing I need to do is change the spring eye/shackle bushings and pins. That was never done on the original build. I'm sure that would tighten it up some.
I also run radial tires, not sure if that makes a difference...
I also run radial tires, not sure if that makes a difference...
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#8
I rebuilt my pitman arm and drag link over the winter. I had inspected it and found everything good 8 yrs. (maybe 2,000 miles) ago. I found the ball on the pitman arm totally wallowed out, and lots of wear in the drag link. After a good look at the manual, I found that someone over the years had reversed the parts on one end of the drag link. Instead of cushioning the impacts to the steering box, they were going right into it. I had re-assembled it the way it came apart... rookie mistake. With a new pitman arm, drag link parts, and re-shimming and gaskets on the steering box, it is wonderfully smooth and goes exactly where it's pointed.
#9
radial tires will make a MAJOR difference, as well as replacing the spring eye and shackle bushings and pins as been said several times. adding a caster shim each side to increase the caster will improve the highway manners quite a bit. Be sure the kingpins are tight, if they are worn, nothing else will help much.
As Ross said, be careful when ebuilding the drag link, the two ends DO NOT assemble in the same order! If the ball on the pitman arm or steering arm shows any wear, replace them.
As Ross said, be careful when ebuilding the drag link, the two ends DO NOT assemble in the same order! If the ball on the pitman arm or steering arm shows any wear, replace them.
#10
Well no matter what...long trips are out of the question until I get some serious work done. I am slowly building two lists...one short term (few weeks), one long term (over winter). My goal is to get it much more stable before winter, and overhaul both front and rear ends over winter. One thing that will seriously help, my Mom's boyfriend bought me a repop repair manual with all the specs and such. Good tool to have.
Upon inspection I found my front U-bolt had worked it's way loose. I removed some leaves in the front pack so I am going to have to fix that first...probably the majority of my problem. That same weekend I will do the tie rod ends and alignment. I really hope to get it back on the road locally after that to see how it does. Ax...I am aware of the bias ply issues. I have driven bias ply tires on other vehicles with no problems like this. I cannot mark all these issues up to tires anymore. I can always roll radials on long trips too...not a problem.
I am trying not to get too far ahead of myself with all these lists and plans. I noticed I get overwhelmed quick and lock the truck away for a year or so when that happens.
Thanks for all the advice!
Upon inspection I found my front U-bolt had worked it's way loose. I removed some leaves in the front pack so I am going to have to fix that first...probably the majority of my problem. That same weekend I will do the tie rod ends and alignment. I really hope to get it back on the road locally after that to see how it does. Ax...I am aware of the bias ply issues. I have driven bias ply tires on other vehicles with no problems like this. I cannot mark all these issues up to tires anymore. I can always roll radials on long trips too...not a problem.
I am trying not to get too far ahead of myself with all these lists and plans. I noticed I get overwhelmed quick and lock the truck away for a year or so when that happens.
Thanks for all the advice!
#14
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