Second idi finally got a 5 speed instead of that automagic. Both batteries load tested. One test 1k amps and other dropped to 700-800. New positive battery cable. Starter is fine because whenever i jump the solenoid it cranks over fast and perfectly fine. I jump the solenoid because i thought the battery cable wasn't letting the driver side battery work so i wiggle it back and forth while crossing solenoid. Also my FSS wire does not work. Alternator is charging fine.

Side note I can't run off-road diesel from some reason. It will smoke blue, buck, surge and loss of power. Ran in my 93 with same injection pump and it ran fine. IP has less than 5k miles. Fuel turned up 2 flats.

 

should turn over the same,,the relay is the (switch) that turns the starter on...the key just operates the relay...I run 50 % motor oil mixed with my fuel...no smoke..at all...if it smokes you may have worn, leaking, injectors, incorrect timing..Incompleat combustion...and in the 15 western states the off road diesel is the same stuff as on road...except it has BK50 dye in it..

 

The starter solenoid sounds broken. The coil inside is probably fried and not fully activating so current to the starter is low.

 

How are you jumping the relay?Are you jumping across the 2 large terminals or from the hot side to the small terminal?
If you're jumping across the 2 large terminals, then the relay is probably bad. If you're jumping to the small terminal, pull the small wire & see what voltage you get on it when the key is turned...

 

If your FSS wire isn't working, and its not cranking right, I'd say you have a problem with the ignition switch or its wiring.
Check that out first, as its probably why the fender solenoid isn't working right. Like Phy said, jump to the small wire and if it works, look towards the ignition switch for sure.

 

Voltage with key on is 13-15 volts. I crossed both the big terminals and the small one. Both ways crank truck over. Usually takes 3 or 4 cranks from cab to start truck. First couple are slow then 3rd or 4th try it cranks faster. I have a parts truck that cranked over fine. Think I will swap starter and relay. Starter is gear reduction on the parts truck. both are less than 6 months old

 

If both ways work the same, the relay is fine.

It sounds like the issue is either with the ignition switch, or the wiring to the switch/relay.

Voltage shouldn't be more than like 12.5 volts unless the truck is running. If its running 13-15 is good. But I think you're testing the wrong wire. What Phy is saying, is pull the small wire off the small terminal on the relay. Hook a voltmeter up to that wire and a ground. Turn key to cranking position and check the voltage.

 

Sounds like you have an issue with the relay still. Your FSS is run off the solenoid on the fender

 

Huh? is that something new with the 92+ or whenever the dash/body change was for these trucks? Because on my 88, the only thing the fender solenoid does is switch the solenoid on the starter itself. I know there was some wiring changes at that time, but only am familiar with whats in my truck.

 

Truck was off,key in crank position. Had the radio on. Small wire that gets pushed onto the silver terminal. Usually stayed around 12-13 sometimes it maxed out my volt meter.

 

What do you mean by maxed out? How high does your meter go?
On my truck, the radio is off when cranking, like all the other accessories that run through the ignition. Maybe that changed on the newer trucks.

Either way, the voltage will be at or less than battery voltage, which should be less than 13 unless the truck is running. Normal resting voltage for a 12V battery is about 12.6V.

 

I wasn't cranking when testing the voltage. My meter has different settings. I changed the starter and it cranks so fast now it starts as soon as you turn the key. Next will be adjusting the neutral safety sensor or connecting the wires. Tired of having to slam the pedal through the flood board to crank.