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  #1  
Old 05-25-2013, 02:33 AM
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Question A few questions about 7.3 accesories

Hi aussie chapter.
Just bought a 2002 4x4 F250 with a 7.3 to replace my turbo 1HZ landcruiser.
I would like some info about fitting a few essential items.
Firstly how easy is installing the thermocouple for an EGT guage?
The landcruiser was easy, unscrew a plug and screw in the thermocouple.
Second, where can I get a decent snorkel?
Next, How do I identify what diffs I have in order to get the correct air lockers?
And finally for this post, are bypass oil filters worth the effort/expense?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:29 AM
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Bung in a photo
See what she looks likeand welcome
Cheers,
patchy
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  #3  
Old 05-25-2013, 08:03 AM
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Smile Pics

Patchy,
Soon as I get a chance to take some
decent pics I'll put them up.
Some time next week I hope.
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  #4  
Old 05-25-2013, 05:19 PM
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Hi there Brian (we almost have too many Brians on this site)

Welcome to the site, there are some very knowledgeable people on this site to answer your questions.
I will give it a go.
1. EGT. You will have to drill a hole either in your exhaust manifold or in the up pipe going to the turbo (assuming you are installing it before the turbo). There are heaps of instruction available from the different suppliers. Try http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/mm5/RE...ISSPRO_EV2.pdf

2. Snorkel. In my opinion the only good snorkel is one that would be made out of pipe. A good friend had a safari snorkel installed, it just didn't flow enough air for the 7.3L. The reason I know this is that the spring loaded Ford Filter tell-tale device installed in the filter box would always move to the maximum limit therefore indicating that the filter is clogged or the snorkel is not flowing enough air. The filter was new.
Do you have the original style filter in there. If you do, I would replace it with a 6637 (this will give you a louder turbo whine) or the Ford AIS kit (which flows alot more air than the original)

3. Airlockers. The rear diff is a Ford 10.5 inch (airlocker part number RD170), the front diff should be a Dana 60 Reverse (airlocker part number RD167)

4. Bypass Filters. This is a personal option. I think the current opinion is if you are going to try to extend you current oil change intervals, then run a bypass filter. If you will change your oil at the recommended intervals, then just run a normal full flow filter and change it everytime.
I will soon be putting a filter on my F250 as I want to extend changes.

I think that is about it. I am sure more guys will chime it with there opinions.

Thanks
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04 F250 CC SB 7.3 PSD XLT city 15/highway 18
Converted to ZF6 with manual transfer case
38R with ebpv delete, hpop Xover line, Regulated return bowl delete, tymar intake, BTM, bellowed up pipes, stock tunes at the moment
Ford Australia imported 7.3 PSD till 05.
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  #5  
Old 05-25-2013, 09:32 PM
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Smile Many thanks for the info

Kramer73,
Thanks for the info, most helpfull.

Drilling into the exhaust sounds like a bit of a PITA and I would
worry about bits of metal ending up in the turbo.
If thats the only option then I guess I'll have to bite the bullet
as I would not want to run without the EGT gauge.

The air intake is not standard, the box is gone and ther is a big
pod style filter on it.
I don't know what make it is. When I get a chance I will post a
photo and see if some one on the forum can identify it.

By a snorkel made out of pipe I assume you mean something custom
bent on a mandrel. I will have to find someone in Adelaide that could
do that work as I have niether the skill or equipment to do that kind
of work.

Thanks for the airlocker part numbers, saved much head scratching.

As for the oil filter, I am not seeking to extend intervals just want to
make sure the oil is as clean as possible as I have studied the way the
injectors are operated in the 7.3 and understand how critical the oil
system is to the operation of the engine.

I don't mind frequent oil changes, I do oil and filter every 5,000kms in
the landcruiser. As the saying goes oils is cheaper than engines.

Thanks again for the info.

Last edited by Aussie BrianB; 05-25-2013 at 09:34 PM. Reason: Re format layout
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:39 PM
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ChunderDownUnder ChunderDownUnder is offline
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You have two options regarding the EGT's. Post or Pre turbo. Drilling and tapping the manifold (pre) is more accurate and trust me, its alot easier than getting that downpipe in and out. You will need a 1/8th npt tap and 11/32 drill and the wifes vacuum to suck out any filings.
Passenger side manifold just below the arrow



Safari snorkel for me. All the majors supply em. If you live in Sydney I can put you on to a guy who can supply and fit



I totally agree about changing oil. BUT, todays oils can last alot longer than 5K. These things take around 17ltrs and 5K comes around quickly. I do run the bypass and change every 15K and I havent had a bad Oil analysis yet. Personal choice here but I went with the Oilguard set up. the kit comes with everything you need.

the two black hoses above the OEM oil filter are you supply and return lines



the unit



fitted

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Old 05-25-2013, 10:57 PM
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Smile

Brian,
Thanks for the info and photos.

I assume you drill the manifold in place, not removed
from the truck.

You have not had any air starvation problems with
the Safari I take it.

Is the oilguard unit available in Australia or do I need
to source it from the US?
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:49 PM
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ChunderDownUnder ChunderDownUnder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie BrianB View Post
Brian,
Thanks for the info and photos.

I assume you drill the manifold in place, not removed
from the truck.

Correct

You have not had any air starvation problems with
the Safari I take it.

I have the aFe stage II intake, so it gets plenty of air




Is the oilguard unit available in Australia or do I need
to source it from the US?
No I got it from the States
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- cant wait until my motor blows so I can blame someone else -
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:32 AM
SSSimon SSSimon is offline
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FYI, I found drilling the exhaust manifold and tapping it easy. I just started with a small diameter drill bit and worked my way up to the tap size.
The only piece of info I can add is that I had a small amount of exhaust leakage through the probe threads. I cured this by applying exhaust sealant to the probe threads then re-fitting the probe.

BTW, the 'stock' Down Pipe that FA supplied to these vehicles is an EGT generator. You want to change that over ASAP. Reg on this forum had good results with a 3.5" downpipe. That's what I'd recommend as it is an easier fit than the 4" or larger DPs, but is big enough to do a much better job than the FA strangulator pipe. With the stock FA DP I used to see 850C EGT's, now it barely ever gets to 400.

All the best with it!
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MODS: Hutch,ICboots,plenum inserts,IH uppies,G2WW,HPx,AIH delete,EBPV delete,hi flow outlet,CCV mod,OCR,Zoodad,6637,4" TB exhaust,JW VB,coolant filter,FRx,'05 HD lights with switch bypass relays,B20 ready fuel system(3 filters).Stratos truck seats,rear head rests,LED running lights, 285-75-16s. Gauges:EGTx2,Boost,Trans temp,Fuel pressure,Eng oil temp, Coolant temp, Edge CS, PHP tuner
NOT done: big oil, big brakes, big turbo. Next Mods? None - I'm done!
Australia: where Mechanics use spanners & Plumbers use wrenches
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:00 AM
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Thanks both of you for the info.

I will have to confirm but I believe the stock down pipe has been
replaced with a 4" unit by the previous owner.
The exhaust is a 4" aftermarket job.

The photo of the air filter looks very much like mine.
How does that seal with a snorkel?

Is there an Aussie supplier of replacement filters for the oilguard
or do they have to be sourced from the US as well?
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:44 PM
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ChunderDownUnder ChunderDownUnder is offline
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The difference in the down pipe is noticeable. Just see if they went 4" from the downpipe back




The snorkel doesnt seal. If I was to do some serious 4wd'n I would go for something like this

Riffraff Diesel: S&B Cold Air Intake Kit - Oiled Element

Or the ford AIS

I get the filters of Clay in the States. I havent tried to see if you can get em here.. I change em every 30K so I get three at a time.
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- cant wait until my motor blows so I can blame someone else -
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  #12  
Old 05-26-2013, 09:15 PM
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Thanks Brian.
I'll check out the pipe.
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Old 05-26-2013, 11:52 PM
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Thanks Brian.
I'll check out the pipe and see how it looks.
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  #14  
Old 05-27-2013, 06:53 PM
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Kramer73 Kramer73 is offline
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Hi Brian

Just some more info on my friends snorkel.
His Snorkel connects to the original airbox in his F250 and he uses the original rectangular filter. His snorkel seals so no water will get in.
Maybe if he ran a different filter, it might help, but he likes the paper ones.
__________________
04 F250 CC SB 7.3 PSD XLT city 15/highway 18
Converted to ZF6 with manual transfer case
38R with ebpv delete, hpop Xover line, Regulated return bowl delete, tymar intake, BTM, bellowed up pipes, stock tunes at the moment
Ford Australia imported 7.3 PSD till 05.
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  #15  
Old 05-28-2013, 05:36 AM
SSSimon SSSimon is offline
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I remember reading on the US forum that there is a problem with the OEM airbox warping with age, then the paper element not sealing properly.
This was one of the justifications for replacing the original airbox and filter.

For instance, your friend's 'like' for the original paper air filters could change drastically if he were to find evidence of dust on the wrong side of the filter.

The pod style filters are simply clamped onto the intake pipe making for a very effective & reliable air tight seal.
__________________
MODS: Hutch,ICboots,plenum inserts,IH uppies,G2WW,HPx,AIH delete,EBPV delete,hi flow outlet,CCV mod,OCR,Zoodad,6637,4" TB exhaust,JW VB,coolant filter,FRx,'05 HD lights with switch bypass relays,B20 ready fuel system(3 filters).Stratos truck seats,rear head rests,LED running lights, 285-75-16s. Gauges:EGTx2,Boost,Trans temp,Fuel pressure,Eng oil temp, Coolant temp, Edge CS, PHP tuner
NOT done: big oil, big brakes, big turbo. Next Mods? None - I'm done!
Australia: where Mechanics use spanners & Plumbers use wrenches
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Old 05-28-2013, 05:36 AM
 
 
 
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