86 300 stock
Set the choke and sometimes it spits, sputters, and misses. Blip the throttle and the idle smoothes out. Not 100% sure on idle speed at either fast or regular idle. But like i said its not rough all the time, kick the choke off and its smooth, and there is no miss, buck, nothing when running the gears.

 

The choke flap is adjustable. If it runs good otherwise, you'll be in good shape soon. Someone will help you that knows that year.

 

Sounds like it is rich, like the choke is sticking on. Sometimes the fast idle linkage binds a bit and prevents the choke from coming off until you blip the throttle. The fast idle linkage is supposed to be loose enough to allow the choke to move on its own, but since the choke has very little force on its own it doesn't take much bind to cause a problem.

 

Appreciate that but i guess i left out a bit.

This is initial start up. 3~5~10 second max fast idle. Even in winter i shut down fast idle in about 10 sec. Like i said though. The roughness comes and goes. Most of the time its good. But like this mornin it was rough. But idles good ALWAYS at regular rpm.

 

Not sayin yalls answers dont fit. Just thought i needed to clarify.

 

Does the Carter have a vacuum pull-off for the choke? If so and if you had a crack in the vacuum line it might do that.

 

This is my best pic right now. For some reason im thinkin it has a electrical line to it and no vac.

 

The vacuum motor, if it has one, would be towards the rear of that picture. Also, some carbs have a bail that the air cleaner's stud goes into, and if you tighten the air cleaner too much it pulls on the bail enough to distort the carb and bind the linkage to the choke.

 

JayzDaddy,

Before you do anything, place a rubber cap on the open port at the top of the carburetor [as seen in the photo]. This port was to supply make-up filtered air to the choke heater.

For the rough for "3~5~10 seconds condition", loosen the three screws on the black plastic choke housing and rotate to open the choke slightly. Then retighten the screws. This will make the startup mixture a little more lean. There are index marks on the choke housing so you can note where you started and how much you have moved. I normally mark [scratch] where the choke is set [now] with a screwdriver, so I can return, if necessary. Move one notch at a time and drive for a few days.

I believe your choke is set just a little too rich. By the way, it is not uncommon to need to adjust chokes seasonally, due to temperature conditions.

Check the electrical line going to the choke heater for voltage. Power for this comes directly from the alternator [s stator?] and only works when the engine is running. The measured voltage is ~7 volts.

 

+1 on that.

If I give my truck too much choke when it starts up, it'll buck until you open it up a bit.

 

Thanks 86. Good info and answered a q i put up near a month ago about that port. I think someone said it went to the charcoal can. I just couldnt find a place it remotely could have hooked up.

 

Capping would stop unfiltered air entering the carb through that nipple, but I would set up a pipe between the nipple & the air heater on the exhaust manifold, like the original.

Right now, unfiltered air is being drawn up from the air heater (on the exhaust manifold), through the choke coil housing, & into the intake manifold.
Because the heater opening is down low, a lot of dust can be flying around.

Regarding the idle, is the pull-off opening the choke the right amount? If it's only the first 10 seconds of running, the pull-off (or it's setting) are probably the issue.