Recommended tools and supplies:

Mirrors used in this example ProEFX part# EFXMRFSD03HECP
Needle nose pliers
small awl/punch/pin/pick etc.
11mm socket
7mm socket
5.5mm socket

basic wiring tools - Solder and heat-shrink would be preferred, but splices and taps can be used
small split-loom
Gopher or equivalent fish tool.

patience and beer, maybe a friend if you need one.

The mirrors I used are plug and play for 03+ SD and Excursions. Earlier models like mine (2002) do not have the running/park light wire feed into the door, but do have the turn signal feed. From what I can tell, the 2000-2001 trucks did not have the ten pin connector at all and will require custom wiring or adapters. Ford does make adapters that run ~25 bucks a pop at the time of this writing. Part#'s 1C3Z14A411BA and 1C3Z14A411AA, and from what I can tell, still need to be modded to add lights. See this write up for more info on that generation. My original mirrors were also heated so I did not have to add that either. It took me ~ 3hrs with the picture taking and looking at wiring diagrams on AllData, beverage intake and a lunch break. YMMV


Start by rolling the windows down and removing the door panel, the small black pod above the door panel is held in by clips, it just pops off. Lift up at the front of the switch panel and lift it out of the door panel. Unplug the panel and set aside. Remove the courtesy light lens in the door by popping it out at the notch. remove the two screws that you have just revealed, they are 7mm.



Simply lift up on the door panel, being mindful of the courtesy light socket, it just twists out. Set the door panel aside where it can’t get hurt.

Now look behind the mirror and you will see three body plugs and a strip of weather shield.


Pop out the plugs and carefully peel the small strip of weather shield off. You will see the four 11mm nuts that hold the mirror in place. Do not remove them yet.



Carefully peel the upper corner of the main weather shield back to reveal the mirror harness and connector.


Separate the connector and push the mirror end into the door. Now remove the original mirrors but removing the four 11mm nuts. This is where that friend might come in handy to hold the mirror, I just grasped the upper arm through the window and held the mirror. Pull the mirror away from the door, the gasket may stick on you, and fish the wire out of the door. Set the original mirrors away for safe keeping or resale. On the outside of the door, you will see two large holes that the connector can fit through, it goes in the rectangular one, not the round one. The mirror has a locator that goes in the round one.



Slip the wire of the new mirror in the proper hole and let it fall into the door, is easy to get to through the speaker hole, the speaker is held in by four 5.5mm screws. Fasten the new mirror to the door being careful not to over tighten the nuts, but make sure the mirror is pulled all the way up to the door, compressing the gasket and hugging the outer window frame.



Reach in through the speaker hole and fish the mirror harness back up through the hole in the top of the door that you pushed it through earlier.



Now detach the vehicle side of the connector from the door, this is done by carefully prying the locking end of the mounting clip and sliding the connector off of the clip, it slides toward the latch, not away from it.



Now to source the pins, I had a couple of the power mirror only adapters sitting around and snagged a couple of pins out of it. Ford uses the pins in alot of their connectors. They can be in various pigtails from the parts store or junkyard. The pins are also available bare, 25 to a box, from Auveco or Ford. Auveco’s part# 20475 and can be had for cheap online. Ford’s part# on the pins is E7EB-14461-BA, unsure on pricing ATM. If you are scavenging like I did, make sure you have a long enough piece to make a connection. To remove the pins from the connector, look at the back of the connector and you will see a small notch that you can push a pick through, this will unlatch the pin lock, then pull the pin lock out with a pair of needle nose pliers. The carefully lift up on the locking tab to release the pin, and push the pin out through the rear of the connector. This may be tight, but do not bend the pin.





Now to tap the feed for the running/park lights, I wanted to keep things on the fused side of the equation so I pulled it from the back of the relay panel, it is in the 4th plug over from the right on the bottom row.



It is the solid brown wire in position #12, next to the black/pink wire that is the reverse light feed.



I used a t-tap to make the connection.



Time to fish the wire through to the doors. This is where my friend the Gopher comes in handy. It is simply the best $15 piece of plastic I ever bought from my Snap-On man. It has saved me countless hours over the years.



Pull the door conduit away from the vehicle side and fish the tool through from the door side.



Pull your wire through the door conduit.



Now I pulled the kick panels as a precaution but depending on your angle of attack you may not have to. Run your fish tool through the hole in the vehicle side and find where it is coming out at, if there are any moving parts, route the wire away from them. do this for both sides.



The door end of the circuit I ran through the hole in the door that the mirror harness is fed through. More on that next

Now to add the new circuit to the vehicle connectors. Connect your pin, where new Remove the lock plate the same way as described above.




The new pin goes in position # 7, pushing through from the back side. Don't forget to push the lock plate back into place.



I wanted to solder these connections, but I was out of butane in my iron. So I used butt connectors.



I covered the new wire with a short length of split loom to protect it. At this point you can reinstall the connector onto the clip and plug the mirror back in, repeat for both sides.



Make the connection for both wires to the wire coming off of the back of the relay module. Again, I prefer solder and heat-shrink, but crimped it for now. I will go back in and fix everything when I get more butane.



Now test all your of your lights. They will blink when you lock it with the keyless entry system. If everything is good, then button everything back up and clean up. Do not forget to stand back and admire your work. It is a very nice view in the mirrors now. Going to be much nicer towing the TT down the road. Backing in is already much easier.

If there are any questions, post away. The pictures below are extras that I took along the way. Thank you for shopping, please drive through...










The mirrors I bought come with a PTM, a chrome and a textured cap, I went with textured. It just snaps into place.

 

Do your turn signal lights on the mirrors come on when you step on the brakes? Mine do, but I had to feed mine off of the turn signal switch.

 

No. My harness already had the turn signal circuit in the doors. All I added was the park light circuit.

 

Yeah, I figured that was a "feature" that was unintended on mine. Wondering how it's isolated......

 

Great write up Matt

 

Dang it!!!!! Now I have to find the money for this!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

you need to pull from the front turn signals.


man i want a set so badly! great write up/pics. they look perfect on your truck.

 

What color wires did you tap, do you remember? You may have pulled from after the hazard switch, which does feed all the lights at the same time, and also feeds the rears when not in hazard mode. Ford has split everything at the hazard switch for years. Looking at the diagram, I think you should have pulled from the LG/WH (pin 3) for the left and WH/LB (pin 2) for the right.

 

Thanks guys, if you do them you'll love them. I keep trying to find excuses to drive today.

 

I pulled them from a green with brown stripe wire for the left turn and orange with blue stripe for the right turn. The thought never crossed my mind until I pulled up in front of a store window and saw the reflection.

I traced it right out of the turn signal switch and went with the first wire that blinked like I wanted. Ah well, I guess I will just be unique!

 

Yeah. Those are the rear feeds. Not hard to fix. Just swap to the above wires and all good. If you have inspections in your state it could be an issue.

 

Added some extra info for the early models up top.

 

Like the new look!

 

No inspections, I'll just leave it for now. Unless/until it bugs me enough to fix.

 

Great write up, tried to rep you but I'm still in rep jail for you. Guess I need to wander around a bit and spread some reps. Great photos