Hi guys, just wondering if someone else has experienced the same problem im having.

I just picked up a 91 f-250 IDI

When shifting from 2 to 3, when my foot is not in it, just kinda cruising at this point, the tach plummets and rises until i push down further on skinny pedal. It seems like its not wanting to stay in 3rd, or possibly go on to 4th. The key here is that im just trying to maintain the current speed of 40-50 mph. If I continue to accelerate, then it shifts on out. THen it is fine, cruises 65 with no problem.

I was having multiple issues, but narrowed it down to the FIPL sensor. Replaced it and most problems went away. I have it set at 1.24 at warm idle and it goes to 4 volts WFO. I think I might need to further fine tune the position of the sensor, but this shouldn't affect 2-3 like this? I also have no rpms on the tach at idle. but they jump right up once you ask them to. I have 1st, 2cd, seems like 3rd and 4th too, but shifts late and slowly (a mushy shift) if I'm in the gas (sorry, Fuel!)

I read and re-read the e4od trouble shooting thread and almost all the links. THis is how I figured out the fipl sensor part. maybe I just need more fine tuning, but the 2-3 rpm drop at cruising speed occured before and after the fipl sensor swap.

Maybe shift solenoid? I haven't run codes yet.

I might not be describing my problem the best, but its kinda like I'm pushing down the throttle pedal and letting up, pushing down, letting up, over and over again, but I'm not. I'm already up to "around town" speed (40ish) and just trying to maintain speed, with no load on the engine at all.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

you'll need a way to pull codes.you also need to fix the tach sensor or wiring issue there.you may have other things to address,but those are two obvious ones so far.
more help on fine tuning the fipl/tps,can be found in the link below.keeping in mind,this likely isn't the issue at hand.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ions-only.html

 

THanks F-250hdxlt, I was hoping you would respond since You had written most of the info I had read on here so far. That link to the fipl adjustment was the post I was using already to adjust. I'm glad you don't think that is still the problem, because it seemed to be pretty close.

THe tach sensor could be a issue. It has bare wires running out of it for about an inch. THey don't touch anything or each other, their stiffness holding them in place, but I"m sure they could ground or touch each other. Would this sensor have been damaged if that was the case? I've been meaning to address this, just got truck.

Drove it again a little today, haven;t had truck for 4 days yet, so still trying to figure out the symptoms.

Foot barely in throttle: fairly hard 1-2 shift, considering almost no load on engine. Then I can't tell if its trying to skip 3rd and go to fourth or what. OD button doesn't matter. Could I have a TC problem? Or lockup problem?

Will try to pull codes today. Hopefully the scanner at HOreilly's will work, I know it has obd1 connector for ford, but we usually have problems communicating with pre 96 vehicles.


thanks again.

 

when I said OD button doesn't matter, I meant that problem persists in either condition. Turning off OD will keep it from shifting to 4th. just to clarify.

 

this will help:

and you might not be used to the converter locking up.is this your first auto trans with a locking converter?
this will help you understand a perfectly functioning E40D trans:


lockup (a semi shift with reduced rpms) should be happening around 35 mph (give or take a mph or two) to help you identify it.
another way to help you identify lockup is by using the hazard lights (fords good wiring job lol) it will unlock the converter when on,and lock back up when you turn the hazards off (when already at lockup speeds of course.)
keeping in mind,that with a faulty tach sensor or wiring issues at the sensor,you can't expect ideal results until that's resolved first,but it'll help you learn the trans.

now another tip,when lockup does occur and the trans operates good,once you resolve the issues,if you feel a major drop in performance right at lockup,then it's a tell tail sign the engine is out of tune.with a freshly dialed in idi,she should pull hard and firm right through until od.then once at step 5 and you mat it quickly,she should enter 3rd asap along with unlock and rev and rest on the governor and scream and pull,then lockup again as noted then enter od as you back off.should feel clean,firm and powerful even without a turbo if running solo and on the flat.

 

Yes, this is my first lock up AT. I've mostly driven manual trannies, other than an automatic Civic I used to have.

I am getting lock-up when I should, unless the problem I'm describing is it locking, unlocking. Once I'm past that point, it pulls strong all the way to 85-90 mph. And, again, if I'm matting it, this problem doesn't happen. It may shift a little late and slowly into 3-4, but not have the issue I have been describing. Its only when I'm just barely in the throttle.

Now, I don't know how old that post you quoted from was, but do you think the tach sensor is still only around $50 at the dealer? The only reason I ask is because I was shocked when I bought the TPS. The threads said it was usually under $20 at the auto parts stores, but HOreilly was $55 when I bought it the other day. ouch. I'm almost certain it needed it though. I was getting a weird clicking under the hood after the glow plug light went off, you could see the volt meter in the dash jumping. I originally thought it was the eec relay and replaced it. But when that didn't fix the clicking, I stuck my head under the hood, and the clicking seemed to come from the area of the TPS. NOw that I have replaced the TPS(FIPL) the clicking is gone. Ever heard that one before?

So, tomorrows list:

1:Check codes,

2: Test Tach sensor (is it even worth trying to insulate the wires, or should I just get a new one?),

3: drink beer

Am I forgetting anything?

 

the clicking you hear along with the volt meter swing after the glow plug's wait to start liight goes out,is normal when the block is cold.
it's called afterglow.it's coming from the glow plug relay,and is sending these pulses to your gp's (hopefully you just start the engine as soon as the light goes out) to help aid in a smoother running cold diesel engine.all systems are go for that.nothing to worry about.
it wasn't the tps,but as you have learned the tps is a ware item anyway,so it wasn't replaced for nothing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-OEM-TACHOMETER-SENSOR-FORD-E250-E350-E450-ESD-F250-F350-F59-FSD-/230879539313?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c17e3071&vxp=mtr
http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/...-17b384-a.html

i would test it and or insulate the wires to make sure it needs to be replaced.some liquid electrical tape is much cheaper than a sensor if that's all it needs.you may not get so lucky,but it sure can't hurt to make sure first.

 

Tested tach sensor and could only get .400m ohms on my meter. So I'm pretty sure its bad. thanks for link, ordering it now.

I'll keep you posted on the results.

 

Well, installed new tach sensor, and viola! Everything seems to work well now. My idle seems a little low, maybe a hair over 600 rpm? But the truck isn't chugging, it seems to be a smooth idle. Shifts out fine.

So, should we relable the thread, since the trans actually wasn't the prob? Or no because the trans is electronically controlled using these sensors?

Thanks again for all your help. Getting ready to make a cross country trip in this truck, I'm sure you'll hear from me again if there are prooblems.

 

good going.glad it was an easy fix.it's always scarey when a multi thousand dollar device doesn't work right.it's utopia when a sensor for under 100 bucks fixes her up like new again.

double click just to the right of the thread title (just off the letters) to rename it (you only have a short period of time.i dunno like a few days or something iv noticed.)
and just name it "failed rpm sensor with E40D" or something like that.it'll help future searchers.if it doesn't let you,then it's too late and don't sweat it.

for a cross country trip with an E40D,id bring a code scanner,some spare wire,relays,crimps,butt connectors blue and yellow,electrical cleaner,dialectic grease and a few fuses of various sizes.be sure to pack an 8mm wrench too (heat shield nut size for main solenoid pack plug.)
these basics will help on your journey;
if the light starts flashing,do your best to scan and fix the issue as soon as you can,rather than continuing driving.
if the speedo acts jumpy - it's vss (ask for abs sensor in the stores,for them to find it) the psom,or ground issue.
if the tach doesn't read - as you know,the sensor or wires.
if your light flashes and shows a few codes all solenoid related (and or "tot" sensor) then clean the plug (pass side.)
if you notice a sudden neutral out state while driving down the road - shift into N asap and coast to the side of the road so she doesn't slam into gear (possible and incorrect one!) and suspect the MLPS or connection there (the one on the drivers side.)
with those few tools,parts and knowledge,you'll be much better prepared to handle the most common electrical issues.for anything else,find the internet and search or ask.

oh oops;
your 7.3l idi idle speed is good.
650 rpm is spec.
remember IF you do adjust it (turn it up a tad) then don't forget it will wipe out your FIPL/TPS settings.you must dial it back in to specs as noted in the link above.
depending on how much you adjust the idle without resetting the tps,you may or may not trip a code.it may only frig up your shifts.late and firm and or early and soft along with possible lock up issues too.
just so this doesn't catch ya off guard either.