I have a legit need to do this. I pulled my engine out to regasket and swap to better heads and found the clutch piviot mount broken off on the block. I welded it back together but am somwhat dubious on the structural integrity of cast welding in such a critical area.

I notice that the bell still has the mount for the slave cylinder and that the firewall appears to have the neccisary knock out and bolt positions.

What all will I need? Obviously the slave, master, slave operating rod and master op rod. Will I need to swap out the clutch pedal as well?

Anyone done this?

 

Where are you going to find hydraulic clutch parts that will work, since the last year F100's came with a hydraulic clutch was 1960?

Hydraulic clutches: 1957/60 F100/1100 / 1961/64 F700/850 and etc BIG trucks / Reintroduced in 1983, no parts interchangeable.

C1TT-7A572-D .. Clutch Equalizer Bar Pivot-Engine side / 1961/64 F100/250 292 2WD / Obsolete

No Ford Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has any / If a 292 with 4WD: (7) available NOS.

 

I think ND answered your question. looking at the diagrams on LMC's website it looks like their is a bolt in approximately the same location as the push rod mount but it is for a bumper. You might want to find a 1957-1960 truck and take some detailed measurements from the pivot point to the push rod and some overall clutch pedal stroke to make sure there will be enough stroke to actuate the rod the proper length.

Remember anything is possible if you have some skills. you might also be able to find a corvette clutch setup as they are very popular with "hot rods".

 

My '91 F150 has a hydraulic clutch. If you have to get into custom stuff maybe you could make something like that work rather than going the corvette route.

 

The only place you may run into difficulty is the firewall mounting. There is a knock out and holes to mount something directly inline with the clutch pedal. I tried to do this a couple years ago and the holes did not quite line up with what is suppose to be a NOS clutch master cylinder and the cap was too tall so that it could not be removed once the cylinder was installed without clearancing the sheet metal lip just above. It wasn't a project I felt like solving at the time so I just put the mechanical stuff back on.
The clutch pedal pushrod is different. The clutch pedal is different, and you will need a push rod for the slave cylinder. You can find this stuff in bigger versions of our trucks at a junk yard if you are patient. But these things really are not difficult to make or improvise. Your stock clutch pedal can be used but a bracket needs to be removed and a return spring bracket added.



Some pics.

Master:
Most that I saw in the junkyard, mostly brake cylinders but some for the clutch, had metal caps which are thinner and may work. I do have some of them and if I can get a new rubber gasket for them, I may try that. So this NOS clutch cylinder either is not a clutch cylinder or maybe is a newer NOS and therefore is not quite the same. I really don't know how to tell since I do not have a cylinder that I know for certain is a clutch cylinder. All the fittings required to fab the fluid lines should be available at a good parts store.



Slave:



A stock pedal and the bracket you have to remove for access to the hydraulic cylinder pushrod hole. The lower hole is where the return spring bracket goes on a hydraulic pedal.





Hydraulic clutch mc pushrod on left compared to brake pushrod on right. It's pretty much the same arrangement, just different lengths. Oh, and the partial pedal you see in the picture is a hydraulic pedal I found after beginning to modify a non hydraulic pedal. You can see the return spring tab.



I don't have pics of the slave cylinder pushrod handy or the firewall but I can get some if needed.

 

All 61 to 64 firewalls are punched for the hydraulic clutch master. All the parts for the larger trucks are a bolt on. Including the clutch pedal.

The Slave from a 57 to 60 is also a bolt on to the 223,262, or 292 bell.

Important part is to match the bores and strokes of the Master Slave. The stroke will only be what the master can push.

And yes the 83 up Hydraulic clutch setups can be adapted quite easily with a custom bracket for the bell. I placed one of these in a 62 F250 uni.

Garbz

 

So if Im seeing this correctly I will only need to modify my hood lip and clutch pedal to make this setup work assuming I have all the correct parts for a 1960 F100?

ND-I think you misunderstood me a bit. My block was cracked and the mounting point for the piviot is compromised. That is the sole reason for wanting to convert to hydraulic.

I may end up modifing the existing pivot bracket to tie into another point and therin reinforce it.

Trying to explore my options fully.

 

What engine do you have?

Garbz

 

Garbz, any idea if the bolt centers are the same for the clutch and brake master cylinders? The master cylinder I have certainly does not bolt up. I can't remember if it was slightly too narrow or slightly too wide but it did not bolt up.
Or even the centers of the threaded holes in the firewall will help so I can check against mine to see if something may be wrong with the truck in that area. I can't see anything obvious.

 

Applications: 1961/69: F800/1000, T700/950 // 1963/69: N850/1100, NT850/950, N600/700 diesel // 1968/77 P350/400 240/300 I-6.

 

I have the 292.

Upon looking at it yesterday I belive my best course of action is to form a plate to tie in with some holes I will drill in the vicinity and tap for a 1/4" bolt.

This will reinforce the weak spot and avoid the immediate hassle of doing a hydraulic conversion.

 

Here is a shot of the inside.



Here is a shot of the outside.



The Center to center of the bolt openings is 3 1/4" " and a hole diameter of 2"

What are the dimension on the unit you have?


Garbz

 

My firewall is about 3 1/8" center to center. The master cylinder is 3.200 center to center, the same as a brake mc I have on hand. That makes it about 1/16" difference which does seem right from what I remember. However, I just noticed another bolt toward the floor under the dash on the same bracket. Maybe if I loosen that I can move it just enough to get what I need to install the master cylinder. Then I just have to figure out what to do about the cap. I'll investigate that. But right now I am tired.

 

Sounds like a plan.

Let us know how it worked. You can also enlarge the holes a bit on the master to pick up a 32nd or two.

Garbz

 

I remember finding a link to aftermarket hydraulic clutch conversion kits a few years ago and I thought I bookmarked it. Unable to find the link now, but at the time it seemed like something I would pursue when I got to that point. Has anyone ever tried these and are they worth doing? Or is it just as good to try an 83 & up conversion? Hydraulic set-up sure wouild be easier on the old knees.