He doesn't have an inlet filter anymore.
No, floats don't come in the kit.
I bought the brass 116-4 floats for mine.

One thing I would definitely recommend while you have it apart is to install a blow out protecting check valve.
If the timing messes up (like when the ignition module fails) you WILL destroy the powervalve.
See THIS thread, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13175776


These kits generally come with the drill bit, check ball and insertion tool.

The Holley part# is 125-500
or
Spectre 2408

 

This reprint article offers a look at some of the internal differences of the 4180 from the generic 4160 carb.

4180 Mods

 

Just for the heck of it here's the part # for the 460's EGR plate to intake manifold gasket.

e8tz-9447-a

The engineering number is e8te9447aa

You'll notice, the number reflects a 1988 Truck Engine (E8TE) part, and there were NO carburetors in pickups after 1987.
This updated gasket was engineered to solve the burnt gasket problem so common to 460's.
It came about AFTER these engines were no longer sold in pickups, but still offered in motorhomes and heavy trucks.

 

One thing I found, the 4180 on the 460s suffers from what we used to call "Chrysleritis" a warped secondary metering body. Holley did the same thing on the 4180 that was done to the Holleys on the 383 and 440 engines including the Magnum series. The metering body is cut at an angle eliminating the unsupported lower corners. The material was changed from pot metal (zinc alloy) to aluminum. They will still warp, however.

Once everything is clean, take a straight edge and check across the gasket face. If it is warped, it can be straightened, but it can be a scary process, I place them across the open jaws of a large vice, gasket side up and smack them with a large plastic faced hammer right in the center. You want to go a little beyond flat in the other direction.

 

Ok. Thx for the heads up. Hope I don't have that problem.

 

If you run into any problems, let me know, I used to own a carburetor and tune up shop.

 

Says the guy who just explained he fixes caburetors by whackin' 'em with a big, plastic-covered hammer.

Inspires confidence, yes?

 

That IS funny, but sometimes the high tech fancy sh** just don't work and you have to resort to caveman methods.

 

Speaking of modifications, if you do get the autozone carb adjusting tool I posted you'll need to grind down the outside diameter of the 3/32nd hex bit in order for it to fit in the hole where the idle adjustment screw lives. Pretty simple operation with a bench grinder.

 

You've obviously never dealt with a Chrysler 1 1/2" Carter BBD where the air horn has been pulled up around 1/4" in the center by the air cleaner stud. The recall repair was to straighten it if possible by that method, then install a special bar and air cleaner stud assembly with long screws.

 

My first thought is to smash/bend it in a vice or press or sumthin'.

The thought of you beatin' the thing with a hammer makes me laugh.

 

Okay, thanks. I'll try to remember that when I get to that point.

 

Not sure if a separate post is more appropriate, but I'm wondering about the linkage from the carb to the transmission. Please excuse my ignorance on this stuff.



The bar that runs to the transmission (red arrow) is pretty loose - moves side to side maybe 3-4 inches. The linkage it connects to doesn't look like it's set up right (blue arrow). Shouldn't the part with the bolt be lined up with the throttle lever? The way they are, they can't even make contact. Guess I'm looking ahead cuz these wouldn't be fixed until after the carb rebuild. BTW, could somebody explain in layman's terms why there's a connection btwn carb and tranny and how it works? I assume it has to do with shifting to the next gear at the right time/speed. Also read somewhere there might be a vacuum line connection also???

 

A) There is a connection between throttle position and transmission.
B) There is a connection between manifold vacuum and transmission.

In a world before computers this would allow the transmission to 'know' what was being asked of it, and if the engine was able to supply that demand.

Wide open throttle + not much vacuum = let's go, and go NOW.
The transmission would drop a gear (or two) and allow the engine to rev up into its powerband.
... Of course the torque converter determines what rpm the engine locks to the transmission. (or never does, in many cases)

If you were to put the throttle to the floor and the engine had plenty of vacuum, there would be no need to downshift in order to let the engine to reach it's torque peak.

 

The rod to the transmission will wobble side to side a bit. The adjustment is probably correct, it is for the forced downshift. When the throttle is all the way open, the rod is pushed back and down. The adjustment is basically make sure it goes to it's stop at WOT without binding. There is a specified clearance between the end of the adjustment screw and the tab on the throttle. I always set them so that at WOT I could just move the downshift rod lever enough to feel play in it.

Just be glad Ford never put an AOD behind a 460, that linkage adjustment is very touchy.