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'79 Brake Problem

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Old 05-09-2013, 04:13 PM
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'79 Brake Problem

I have a problem with my brakes that I can't seem to figure out. At first I had air in my lines so the pads weren't releasing pressure off the rotors when I released the brake pedal. When I went to bleed the brakes I stripped the bleeder screw off one of the calipers. Anyway I installed the new caliper, bled the brakes and I still have no brake pressure, I mean the pedal goes to the floor. I took it on a test run around the block, gave it some gas, hit the brakes and the back tires locked up so the back seems to be working fine. I really don't know much about brakes but I was thinking it might be the proportioning valve? What do yall think?
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:49 PM
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air in the lines will not make the brakes stay on. that is a collapsed hose or miss adjusted master cylinder pushrod.
if the lines are bled properly and only rear brakes, it is either a bad master or collapsed front line.
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:27 PM
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:42 PM
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Lucks like it... btw loose the brake booster and go manual
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:46 PM
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Alright and what are the pros and cons to goin to manual brakes?
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 77mud
Lucks like it... btw loose the brake booster and go manual
Don't go manual. Why would you do that!
Did you get ALL the air out of lines? When I swap a new empty caliper I leave bleeder screw open and pump about 5 times just to get the initial fill of brake fluid to fill caliper then proceed with bleeding.
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 460 FORD MAN
Alright and what are the pros and cons to goin to manual brakes?
Chance's are your booster is shot, I have better brakes with out mine...
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
Don't go manual. Why would you do that!
Did you get ALL the air out of lines? When I swap a new empty caliper I leave bleeder screw open and pump about 5 times just to get the initial fill of brake fluid to fill caliper then proceed with bleeding.
Because Manual works much better for me... its not that big of a deal, just removed the booster, mounted the master cylinder to the firewall and cut down the rod and welded it up so it would let off pressure by about 3/8" and they work damn good, I can stop 38's just fine, and Power brake right on up better than i could before, Not to mention alot cleaner looking under the hood and the extra space...
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 77mud
Because Manual works much better for me... its not that big of a deal, just removed the booster, mounted the master cylinder to the firewall and cut down the rod and welded it up so it would let off pressure by about 3/8" and they work damn good, I can stop 38's just fine, and Power brake right on up better than i could before, Not to mention alot cleaner looking under the hood and the extra space...
Should I remove my hydroboost too?
Removing booster would be a downgrade.
I'm pretty sure your front brakes are full of air. I'd open bleeder on new caliper and pump a bunch of times getting the caliper filled.
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:03 PM
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^^He was saying the brakes were sticking on though. I'm thinking swollen up rubber line not letting fluid back out.. and now not allowing fluid either direction, making the front brakes not work. Maybe.
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:08 PM
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No said pedal goes to the floor, the rears are doing everything.
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:25 PM
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The front brakes were sticking so I thought needed to bled the lines. They aren't sticking anymore. But I still don't have any brake pressure.

I'll bleed the front brakes again real good and if it does the same thing Imma buy a new master cylinder.
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:28 PM
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Very possibly be a master cylinder too. Good thing down in the USA it'll prob cost 15$!
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:51 PM
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haha, that's exactly what is costs
 
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:44 PM
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Did you check the prop valve's pin ? Sounds like it might have tripped and shut the front brakes off.
 


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