Ok so I'm in the process of removing my stock exhaust manifolds from my 400. I got the drivers side one off pretty sleazily and removed the pipe as well. However, I'm stuck on the passenger side manifold. The manifold itself is fully unbolted, but due to the y pipe being in the way I can't get it out of the truck. I can see the two bolts holding the y pipe to the manifold, but I cannot reach them. I have tried extended ratchets, pivoting head ratchets, and my regular nut driver and I can't get any tools up to the bolts to get them off...how am I supposed to reach these stupid bolts?!

Also on a side note when I looked at my manifolds, they are EXTREMELY pitted. Can I just grind off the pitted parts and smooth them out, or do I need new manifolds?

 

Bolt the exhaust manifold back on with 2 bolts and go at it from the bottom, after a dose of PB blaster or wd and a deep set socket.

You are meaning the 2 threaded studs with nuts that are in the bottom end of the exhaust manifold right?

 

Yeah the two bolts that hold the exhaust pipe to the manifold. The bend in the y pipe keeps getting in the way of the socket to get to they top nut, and the frame is in the way of the lower nut.

 

I can't believe someone bolted it together then put it in there....almost impossible.

Have you tried a swivel end deep socket? Might have to jack up the motor a bit??

Try unbolting the rest of the exhaust sys at the hangers for more movement.

If you are planning on replacing the manifolds anyway due to pitting, just torch the nut off.

 

I'll try that swivel socket you mentioned. I know I have one so that might work. Also do I need to replace the manifolds? I'm on a tight budget so I was hoping to just grind down the pitted areas sand it smooth around the ports.

 

As far as pits, as long as its not leaking exhaust go with it. I would NOT grind down any part of it. Replace the gaskets with thicker "Percy" ones and never look back.

You only need the mating face (exhaust manifold to head) and the part that connects to the exhaust donut to be clean.

They are fairly cheap, but for some reason the R/H side always costs more??

 

Yeah I've noticed that...

I was able to get the bolts out. One broke in half, and the other finally came out with some coaxing. I've got some fiber fel pro gaskets coming in Saturday so I'll have to get the manifolds cleaned up by then. And ok I won't sand them. Could I have them milled? My dad said that might work...

 

As far as getting them milled, yes you could but I have no idea what a machine shop would charge, versus just getting a new set.

Those are suppose to be a double threaded stud with a nut, not bolts.

Is the pitting that bad on the mating surface that after all this work you might have another leak? If so I would just replace them with new ones.

 

I have seen on another forum that an .060 cut is about max on the manifold or head cumulative i.e., take .020 on one and .040 on the other

 

Thanks for the input, good to know information, but I doubt the OP wants to pull his heads for a shave??

 

or .060 on the manifold

 

The manifolds have some fairly deep pits in them. I'm sure they could be taken out, but I'm not sure if they're big enough to be considered detrimental I'm just kinda looking at it like preventative maintenance since I don't want to do this job again.

I have a scrap yard by my house that's got remains of 40 of these trucks laying around...what would a good set of used manifolds usually cost?

Also that's good to know about the studs vs the bolts. Just goes to show that someone has definitely been in here before. The studs are in pretty crappy shape so I was planning on switching to all bolts...I wouldn't think this would cause a problem...would it?

 

At my local I can get them for 5 to 10 bucks all day. I know that when you get new manifolds they already have the studs in them.

I would think that threaded studs and nuts is OEM...and your bolt set up was from some kind of PO work.

Just remember to use a liberal dose of anti-seize on the NEW manifold bolts. And remember to clean out the bolt holes with a same size tap.

Also do not have any fluid residue (PB, WD-40, oil ect...) on you hands or the manifolds and the heads, that can cause your gaskets to get hot spots and burn up.

With your tight working conditions sounds like back to bolts, is your only option.

 

Ok cool I'll see if I can get a hold of the junkyard and set up a time to go digging around in there. I'll also have to stop to get some more bolts since a couple of mine are pretty badly rusted and could break when I put them back in.

 

Like I said, debur/clean out the holes, use all NEW mount bolts and lots of anti-seize compound on them.

I have no idea what YOUR JY will charge for them, I hear that my JY is fairly cheap compared to the rest of the places around.