Hi again everyone...I'm posting in a bunch of different areas on this forum, as I have a new truck that I'm going to start working on. I thought that I should do a new posting for this question, as it is different from my other ones.

1978 Ford F150 Custom
2wd
8 cylinder 5.8L engine (351)
2150 motorcraft carb

Going to be replacing the valve cover gaskets on the engine, as it was suggested to me that the oil accumulation on the engine could be because the gaskets are leaking. Truck hasn't had anything really done to it in years, so as someone already suggested on this forum, the gaskets are probably dried up and causing the leak. FYI, the truck has sat for 2 days now without moving and there is NO oil spot on the pavement underneath the engine.(It also has not rained)

Question is...do I have to drain the oil in order to replace the valve cover gaskets?? I tried googling and found varied responses, depending on if it is a truck or car and what make and model it is. If someone can let me know for THIS truck, that would be great.

I read reviews on this forum for recommended gaskets, so I got the Lespro cork gaskets, and I guess I ALSO need to get a torque wrench. If some, maybe NumberDummy, can chime in and tell me what the torque specs are supposed to be I would appreciate it.

Any other advice that anyone can offer for acutally removing the old gasket and installing the new one would be greatly appreciated. I HAVE read some of the archives and will continue to do that to educate myself. Finally, any tips on loosening the bolts without stripping or if the bolts are on tight or end up being rusted would be great too.

Thanks again to everyone for being so helpful!!

Jennifer

 

hey Jen,no for changing oil for valve covers,but you should change the oil and anti freeze and plugs,and plug wires ,oil filter,gas filter, air filter,ck,hoses fuel hose ,upper and lower radiator hoses,seeing you said work hasnt been done in a long time,then you know its been done revised Sorry Jen didnt read lower post congrats on your new truck good choice,this is a great site ,with real good and knowledgeable folks

 

My first suggestion to you would be have the engine cleaned down. Power wash or days of ole steam washed...
2nd If your intention is to keep the vehicle, get a book and get acquainted with the book
3rd Go through the maintenance schedule in the book and perform the primary maintenance ( oil change, grease, filters, flush )
4th Find a buddy that has the same interests as their ideas on performing a task combined with you ideas sometimes makes it more palatable ....

Have plenty of rags & hand cleaner & rubber gloves

Sometimes if you check with your local dealer they will give you little short cuts on doing tasks.... don't take the easy way until you've done it the proper way first....

cheers

 

SECOND ^^^^^

*****YOu may want to wash it and wait a few days to see if you can locate the leak. It may not be the valve covers, could be the pcv, filler cap or even the power steering pump just spraying all over from the fan. You can still go ahead and swap the gaskets for s&G's, but this may save you another headache later.

Wash/degrease, wash again then take it apart. You'll be so much happier. Keep water out of the carb, and you won't hurt anything else.

Those bolts shouldn't be stuck/rusted so you shouldn't have any trouble getting them out.

No you don't really need to drain the oil to do this, it's a good idea just in case stuff falls in, but since you just got it changed I'd just leave it in there. Maybe get another oil change in a couple weeks just to make sure you have everything out of it.


As for a torque wrench for the valve cover bolts,,,, ehhhhhhhhh. Technically yes you should, but you can just go by feel. No sense in buying a high dollar tool just for that (though having it in your tools might be a good investment). On the other hand, most parts stores lend tools out, go to oriellys or such and ask. they have pretty much anything you need and it's free (with deposit).

 

Yes on you getting a Chilton or Hays general maint manual from the local parts store, they are also in the library and I am sure on line too. That way you have the answers right at your finger tips. Get on here if you do not understand it thoroughly.

Also ck out your state FTE Mn chapter to get some local help and on site advice. A valve cover gasket change is a easy job, having a knowledgeable/experienced person makes it even better when working on a truck for the 1st time.

Along with all the other advice clean eng, basic tune up (covered in the manual too) will help is run better and get better MPH. Once you have the valve cover off make sure the mating surface of the valve cover is not bent down from over tightening. To remove the old valve cover gasket from the head and valve cover a putty knife will scrape it off just fine.

When you have the valve cover off, take a flat edge (steel ruler or work bench top ect...) and ck the underside of the valve cover where the bolts go thru and make sure its fairly flat. Since you are there ck for excessive loose lifters and do a general insp.

Over tightening them can cause leaks, just use a hammer and a little block of wood to flatten it back out. You only need to TAP the valve cover back flat, it is thin metal.

As far as the torque on install, 4 Ft-Lbs or 48 In-Lbs. I am sure a torque wrench is a rentable item from your local parts store.

Welcome to FTE.

 

Well it appears you've received some super advise and are possibly accumulating many materials....

It is recommended that you change the oil AFTER replacing Gaskets as bits and pieces could go in the pan....possible causing an oil pump failure....

Valve check is good idea... deeper into it valve guide seals.....

One step at a time but do start with the reference materials and clean & degrease engine to find the source....

Good luck
Coveralls
Hat
NO LOOSE CLOTHING
REMOVE JEWELERY
SAFETY GLASSES
SPEEDY DRY ( PIGS BLANKET) for oil spills....

 

Agree to the max on manuals. CD - Detroit Iron Information Systems (OEM shop manual) 877.893.8123.

Definitely change all fluids. Even brake fluid...those wheel cylinders will probably be all gunked up and gooey after years of sitting and may need replacing. Not to mention the brakes themselves and related hardware.

Replace the thermostat/gasket when flushing/replacing coolant. 190* thermostat. Two gals anti freeze and two gals of water. I use distilled water - about a buck/gal at Wally World.

Do your motor (and yourself) a BIG favor - add some ZDDP with every oil change. Today's oil has no zinc/phosphorous in it any more due to cat emissions, and it'll eat cams like Cheetos. Lucas ZDDP plus comes to mind - any parts store should carry it.

AND...check with your local inspection zombies to find out if your vehicle is exempt from emissions. Some states just require 'safety' inspections.

 

Hi there everyone!! I haven't posted in about a week or so. I just got a chance to peak under the hood today and look around. I would say that either there is a HUGE engine/oil problem, or more likely, this truck hasn't had ANYTHING done to it in years!!! I mean years!!!!!

I just re-read this thread to acquaint myself with all the advice everyone had given me. I took off the air filter pan and I am degreasing that. ...the seal on the air filter pan is oily and needs to be replaced and I already got a new filter that can be installed. Mainly just need to know how to power wash or pressure wash the grease off of the engine. Everyone said don't get the carb wet, so I'm not sure how to do this. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't own a pressure washer and don't have a garden hose(live in a townhome), but could over to my parents place or take it to a "do it yourself" car wash. I am going to be taking off the carburetor and having it fixed, as it has a accelerator pump leak. Do I take the carburetor off first, and THEN wash down the engine?? Do I wash this by hand with water, dawn soap, and engine degreaser, or is there a way to spray water in the engine compartment without getting the electrical and carb wet??

Any tips would be great!!

Jennifer

 

Have you had a chance to ck out your state FTE chapter yet?

Minnesota Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Attagirl for doing this on your own, but a watchful experienced eye can make this job a little easier. Same for the valve cover gasket job.

It you take it to a car wash, leave it running cause once the distributor cap gets that wet it might not start and will run rough. You can spray some wd on it (dizzy cap) to help shed the water.

Spray some degreaser on the valve covers ect.. (careful the fan will be turning). Let it soak for a few min the use the pressure washer carefully, meaning do not take the spray tip and go all crazy in there.

Just have the setting on rinse, that way it should be hot water and concentrate on the leaking areas. With the air filter cover on and the truck running, you should be ok.

 

If you are worried about the carb and electricals just tape plastic bags over things you dont want to soak. It wont matter if a little water gets on things , you just dont want high pressure water on them. If you can find citrus based degreaser it usually works well. If its filthy you will need to let it soak in and work it around with a stiff brush or two. It may take several attempts to get it clean, you may also need to scrape the really hard stuff off.

 

I prefer the rubber valve cover gaskets as they are more forgiving if you happen to over toque the bolts than cork gaskets....don't tighten them super tight....just enough so they don't back out...A Haynes manual is better for the novice IMO. I would clean the valve covers when they are off engine. You need to find the source of the leak.

 

Come on now. That's just rotten advice. All fasteners have torque specs. Ill agree you cannot always use a torque wrench due to clearance. Etc.

Valve covers of all things should be torqued properly. That's the easiest way to get a leak is to over torque them. Its easy to do with that little torque involved. I wouldn't even use the full 48 inch lbs if you use a cork gasket. I run half on my 460 run it for 500 miles or so then re torque. I don't have any leaks. Proper prep is part of that. Those gasket surfaces have to be spotless and then I glue the gasket down with gasgacinch. I do not use RTV.

Believe me a inch lbs and foot lbs torque wrench is a good investment. Any mechanic, amature or not worth his salt will have a set. You will use those torque wrenches to the point of having to replace them after years of working on vehicles. If you don't want leaks, warped heads, stripped/broken fasteners, etc buy a set.

 

Hi everyone, and thanks for all the continued advice. I DID happen to score a Haynes manual at a garage sale...my daddy always said they were better than Chiltons.......I couldn't find a Haynes manual for this year ANYWHERE locally including the libraries. I got lucky though and my sister found one at a garage sale the other day for .75 cents!!! Your right wilcam47, the Haynes is WAY better, both with diagrams and instructions.

I don't wanna run the truck right now until I get the accelerator pump fixed..I'm planning on taking out the carb in the next couple of days and taking it to my local carb shop...(which I hear does good work). I COULD just replace the accelerator pump gasket and not mess with the rest of the carb, but I feel this need to do it right and slowly replace stuff the RIGHT way in the truck, even if it's not worth much.

I took the air filter cleaner off in preparation for removing the carb, but I'll just put that back on there and then take everyone's advice and use a citrus cleaner and at least get the engine cleaner first, before I go taking off the carb. I'm replacing the spark plug wires, battery, and distributor stuff anyway, so good idea to spray it down NOW while all the old stuff is still on there.

As for whether to use a cork or rubber gasket, if everyone thinks I should use rubber instead of the cork, I will go get the rubber. Someone at the parts store today mentioned they liked the rubber better cause it can be used more than once...remove cover, adjust, and then tighten down again.(or something along those lines)

I also am trying to decide if I want to go with the original air cleaner housing or get a newer after market housing that will use warm air instead of cold. I will be doing another posting on that, so if anyone wants to chime in on that thread, I would really appreciate it!!

Jennifer

 

Congrats on the find, there must be a Ford Angel looking out for that truck and you...

In so far as the gaskets for the valve covers you say tomato I say tomoto! It is just a mater of personal preferences... The costs of these gaskets make it worth a second set if you have to remove the valve covers again.....

The year of the truck is of the "real gas" age requiring NO ALCOHOL and it could present other problems down the road ( the avatar shown if an 87 Toyo.... the corn fuel ( not drinking type) eats up metal tanks, fuel lines and destroys rubber ---- Todays fuel tanks are typically "plastic" with injectors and engine is "leaned" out to operate within the specs of the corn mush fuels.. ( I purchased recreational fuels for all my old toys (boat) and now available is alcohol free from Fastrac distributors disguised as "high test".

Be safe if working around a running engine ( loose clothing, hair, eyes) It can be VERY DANGEROUS even for the more experienced wrenches out there....
Good Luck
Be Safe
Get Greasy
Take Pics (before and After)
Lucky

 

always good to have a torque wrench, available at harbor freight