I have not started it since I put the pan back on. I don't have oil in it yet. I'm going to refill the oil this weekend when I get home. I can't start it until I get the starter rebuilt and reinstalled. Hopefully that will be this weekend also.

I don't see how the timing could be changed by anything I have done... removing the starter and oil pan.

My timing is set to slightly BTDC as I recall. But where ever it's set, the truck ran great before I started messing with it.

After all this, I just want it to run again when I try to start it.

I'll re-torque the pan bolts after it runs for a bit. How often do you recommend doing that, Ross?

 

Ross is just suggesting that the timing could be inaccurate due to a shift of timing marks on the damper if it is a two piece bonded damper. That is what happens when this type damper goes bad. Nothing you've done in this operation would change timing

 

Did you figure out the intermittent lock-up problem? My 226 would not want to start and I would have to push it while in gear a little to start it. It turned out to be the fiber timing gear on the cam shaft was going.

 

Welcome to FTE!

I will be working on the tranny later this month (when I have some vacation) and I'll update the thread with whatever I find and decide to do about it.

I know this thread has been sitting idle for months, but I have a limited "shop" area, and I park my car in there too. It's really my garage... I'll be taking over the whole garage when I start on this problem, so I want to be able to work on it every day.

But I have no problem starting the truck. And it only locks up occasionally. But I've been lucky that it hasn't happened while I've been driving on the street (only in my driveway).

 

Reviving this thread with questions.

Regarding my 51 F3 226:

First, the pan gasket I just purchased from Egge Gaskets in So. Ca extends on the pan such that it covers the rear rope seal.

Should the gasket be left that way or should I trim it to fit just to the edge of the rope seal so the upper and lower rope seals would mate each other. I understand to leave the new seal slightly "proud" so it will squish properly.
Having the pan gasket between the upper and lower rope seals just doesn't seem right and I would think would leak?

Second, I immediately soaked the new rope seal in oil thinking this was necessary prior to installation. I then realized the new rope seals are actually the graphite seals and I have read they don't need to be soaked in oil prior to use as is required for the true white rope seals.
Can I still install the graphite seals or have I ruined them?

Thanks for any assistance.
I took the oil pan off and cleaned 60 plus years of gunk and old dinosaur from the pan in anticipation of getting the 226 started again after decades of laying fallow.