Pulling transmission to replace flywheel/ring gear today
#1
Pulling transmission to replace flywheel/ring gear today
1981 F150 302/C6/9".
Over the past few weeks I have had issues with my starter either not catching the flywheel ring gear when I'd turn the key, or if it did catch, it would make an awful screeching sound. Well, just this past week, I got in to run an errand and when I hit the key, it just made racket and didn't turn the engine, so I grabbed the alternator fan and engine fan and rotated the engine so it'd have some better teeth to catch. Hit the key again....awful racket and then a clunk.
The ring gear separated from the flywheel. It didn't crack, split or anything, it just came clean off.
So today I'm pulling the transmission, a C6, and seeing as I've never done this before, I need some insight from you guys.
- What flywheel does my truck need?
- Is there a quick way to identify how many teeth the ring gear has without actually counting all 150+ of them? lol
- Is there a certain way the flywheel goes on? I know there is a balance weight in the flywheel, surely there is a certain way it has to be installed.
A friend is graciously loaning me his transmission jack, so the job shouldn't be too hard as far as moving the transmission. I'll just be glad when I got it all back together, since just prior to the ring gear coming off, that little 302 was running like a top.
Over the past few weeks I have had issues with my starter either not catching the flywheel ring gear when I'd turn the key, or if it did catch, it would make an awful screeching sound. Well, just this past week, I got in to run an errand and when I hit the key, it just made racket and didn't turn the engine, so I grabbed the alternator fan and engine fan and rotated the engine so it'd have some better teeth to catch. Hit the key again....awful racket and then a clunk.
The ring gear separated from the flywheel. It didn't crack, split or anything, it just came clean off.
So today I'm pulling the transmission, a C6, and seeing as I've never done this before, I need some insight from you guys.
- What flywheel does my truck need?
- Is there a quick way to identify how many teeth the ring gear has without actually counting all 150+ of them? lol
- Is there a certain way the flywheel goes on? I know there is a balance weight in the flywheel, surely there is a certain way it has to be installed.
A friend is graciously loaning me his transmission jack, so the job shouldn't be too hard as far as moving the transmission. I'll just be glad when I got it all back together, since just prior to the ring gear coming off, that little 302 was running like a top.
#3
It does go on a certain way, make sure you pay attention how it comes off. Also, there is usually a drain plug that sticks out of the torque converter. There is a large hole in the flexplate that clears this plug. Some flexplates have large holes in every possible position, so it doesn't matter how it's "clocked" to the converter. But some only have one hole, so it matters on them.
I would keep an eye on your fan shroud and your fan. You are going to have to let the rear of the engine drop down so the tranny will slide back at a downward angle. This might make the fan hit the fan shroud. You also will have to loosen the exhaust to let the engine drop down in the rear.
I would keep an eye on your fan shroud and your fan. You are going to have to let the rear of the engine drop down so the tranny will slide back at a downward angle. This might make the fan hit the fan shroud. You also will have to loosen the exhaust to let the engine drop down in the rear.
#4
I was hoping I wouldn't have to touch the exhaust, but oh well.
One problem I'm having right now is removing the inspection cover. It doesn't appear to have the little removeable plate like some transmissions did. On mine it looks like one big piece of metal between the engine and transmission that won't come off even after removing a few bolts.
One problem I'm having right now is removing the inspection cover. It doesn't appear to have the little removeable plate like some transmissions did. On mine it looks like one big piece of metal between the engine and transmission that won't come off even after removing a few bolts.
#5
One problem I'm having right now is removing the inspection cover. It doesn't appear to have the little removeable plate like some transmissions did.
On mine it looks like one big piece of metal between the engine and transmission that won't come off even after removing a few bolts.
On mine it looks like one big piece of metal between the engine and transmission that won't come off even after removing a few bolts.
#6
Hopefully you buy the ring gear already on the flex plate. You need to heat the ring gear to install, and if you don't have the proper tools, you can get hurt.
When ready to put the trans back, be sure the converter is seated all the way back in the trans. Best way to do this, is to keep turning, and pushing in on the converter, it will slip back like it's going down steps, a little at a time.
When it is seated, you should NOT be able to put your fingers between the case, and the converter.
Make sure to not only line the drain plug at the hole in the flex plate, but the 3 converter bolts need to line up with their holes too.
To make it easier to slide the trans in and out, you can take two 1/2" x 4 bolts, and cut the heads off. cut a notch in the end you cut off to get a large screwdriver in the end.
Install these 2 bolts in the bottom 2 holes in the block, and the trans will sneak right in there.
Oh, and make sure you have the motor plate in there, I'd hate for you to have to do it twice!
When ready to put the trans back, be sure the converter is seated all the way back in the trans. Best way to do this, is to keep turning, and pushing in on the converter, it will slip back like it's going down steps, a little at a time.
When it is seated, you should NOT be able to put your fingers between the case, and the converter.
Make sure to not only line the drain plug at the hole in the flex plate, but the 3 converter bolts need to line up with their holes too.
To make it easier to slide the trans in and out, you can take two 1/2" x 4 bolts, and cut the heads off. cut a notch in the end you cut off to get a large screwdriver in the end.
Install these 2 bolts in the bottom 2 holes in the block, and the trans will sneak right in there.
Oh, and make sure you have the motor plate in there, I'd hate for you to have to do it twice!
#7
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#9
#10
There is no access plate of any kind anywhere. Judging by the fact that one of the mounting bolts for the transmission had like three or four flat washers on it that I didn't put on myself, I bet it's been apart before. So far the bolts are either easy to remove or already loose...some hard to get to. lol
I am going to pull the trans and leave the TC bolted up to the flywheel, so I can easily access the bolts with the transmission out of the way.
Thanks for the help so far guys.
I am going to pull the trans and leave the TC bolted up to the flywheel, so I can easily access the bolts with the transmission out of the way.
Thanks for the help so far guys.
#11
It is no easier to remove the converter. It is usually harder to leave the converter on. The inspection cover is not like a chevy. It is a flat plat across the front lower portion of the trans. If you can see the converter, the plate is missing.
Bump the engine until you remove all four nuts on the converter.
Bump the engine until you remove all four nuts on the converter.
#13
I have the same problem with my flywheel/flex plate. I bought a new flywheel/flex plate at Advance for $42, the ring gear is already attached to it. Since I don't have a tranny jack and can't get the truck up high enough,I have to have somebody else do the job. I got a quote of between $300 and $400.
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qman
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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06-03-2015 04:21 PM