The old distributor wiring was replaced with the kit. All that is fine with good continuity.

I FINALLY got it to start over the weekend.... once it starts it runs GREAT.... nice and smooth with plenty power. BUT.... when I shut it off it will not immediately restart nor will it start after sitting a while. I'm at wits end to figure this one out. All I wanna do is drive my truck and have it start up again.

 

I admit I've never worked with a flathead...though I SO want to. Maybe some day.

If she runs "great" once she fires over then I'm thinking there's a carb issue here. Timing might be a hair off, but not if it's really running great once it goes. That suggests you've got fuel, spark, and compression all at the right time once it's running. Since you don't have Variable Valve Timing that's off the DDX list. Spark would be my next area to check, but it sounds like you're in the clear there. Might check when turning over/cranking JIC.

But Ross is right; if compression and spark are there, fuel is next. A carb that's dumping/draining could appear to run fine once things get going, but wreak havoc for start up.

Peace,
Jim

 

That sounds like electrical. No re-start couldn't really be carb or compression. (I assume you mean, you turn it off and 15 seconds later it won't start?)

Check to see that the ignition switch is in good shape. Try hot-wiring direct from the battery to the ignition circuit.

 

I tend to over simplify things so I start with the basics (after making my life more difficult first)- Have you checked to see if you are getting fuel to the carb- I spent several hours looking for a starter/electrical issue, when I finally stepped back, had a beer, and realized i never pulled the plug out of the front of the carb to see if I was even getting fuel. (see my current post about rebuilding a fuel pump- still need some advice there)- Although I know wiring is my next project- PO pulled some wires to bypass some of the factory wiring (brake lights for example) and I want to get rid of the non-period and shorted wiring, I am 99% certain my current starting problem is with my fuel pump.

 

Did you ever check the rotor and cap? If they are good, it doesn't cost anything to check the timing. Do you have a timing light? If not, the local shop should be willing to set the timing for pretty cheap. Let us know when you figure it out. Jag

 

There is a possibility that your starter is drawing so much current that the ignition is not firing while the engine is cranking. If the starter is also cranking slow it will be very hard to start.

It sounds strange, but have you tried push starting the truck? If it starts easily when you push it, then you have a problem with the starter cables, solenoid, or starter.


Also, if you have a blown power valve in the carburetor the engine can be very hard to start. The engine will flood just after you turn the engine off, then will have no fuel for restarting.

Ford wiring did not get the bypass switch until the change to 12V in 1956. The truck in question is full voltage all the time.

 

Good suggestion Ross
hot wiring the ignition directly would bypass the ignition switch and wiring. If it starts and runs everytime then you can start chasing things backwards until you find it.

Try not to get too frustrated, you'll get it. Just take it step by step

Bobby

 

I have a timing light and have set the timing at every degree adv and ret and still run... but then won't restart or start a few days later. I always have to work very hard and several battery charges later before it will start if it even starts at all.

Yes... I let it run for 15-20 minutes.... turn it off and 5 seconds later try to restart and it spins over but won't fire.

I did consider the ignition switch.... it's been in the truck since '50... but haven't had a chance to bypass it yet. I've used starting fluid and it not fire.... so I think it must be electrical?

The starter is a freshly rebuilt unit that I've had a month or two and turns over fine. The old one was dragging pretty bad so I yanked it.

I really appreciate all the help and input!!! Keep it coming please.

 

You've had a couple suggestions to hot wire it, bypass the ignition switch. You've had suggestion to have the battery load tested. Are all the battery cables heavy duty and are all end connections good? Six volt wiring is critical to get voltage from one place to where it does its work. Has coil polarity been checked? If you've had it running and it is not 'kicking back' while cranking, your timing is not that far off that it will prevent starting. If you have a vacuum gauge available, hook it up and see what it reads when you get it running. As a last resort and if practical, see if it will start while pushing it. This will eliminate too much draw in the starting circuit. Use extreme caution.

 

How about the cap and rotor????? Jag

 

I am reading too quickly and not with enough comprehension, I guess. I thought I had read where those had been replaced but I guess I read wrong.
I've ALWAYS thought that correcting a hard starting issue on one of these old pieces is a good tune up to start. Not that expensive and you've eliminated a lot of potential problem areas. But, that was when we had parts made in America. Who knows with off shore parts.

 

I agree, I think its electrical. Do you know how to hotwire the truck?
You can do everything under the hood.
1. Make sure the truck is in nuetral and the wheels are chocked
2. Run a jumper wire from the ignition side of the coil (not the side going to the distributor) to the battery
3. Using a screwdriver or similar device short across the starter solenoid (short between the large terminal that is connected to the battery and the small terminal closest to it)

The jumper wire from the battery to the coil will provide direct power to the distributor "turning on" the system. Shorting across the starter solenoid will engage the solenoid and engage the starter.

Bobby