1970
#16
Sorry I only just saw the post in my other thread saying Type F is the one to use. I am glad I used what was in the truck rather than what I bought!
So I still would like to know if it's normal for me to need to push the pedal in all the way to start (not positive it will happen next time, but it might) and also what oil to use when I change it.
So I still would like to know if it's normal for me to need to push the pedal in all the way to start (not positive it will happen next time, but it might) and also what oil to use when I change it.
#17
Also Gembone, these are my cab mounts I am assuming? Some rust but do they look okay?
http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psdceb32ab.jpg
http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psd48b4c64.jpg
Didn't get any more pics today, what do you mean by cab corners and drip rails?
http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psdceb32ab.jpg
http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psd48b4c64.jpg
Didn't get any more pics today, what do you mean by cab corners and drip rails?
#18
Okay so I put a new starter solenoid in, and turned the key...nothing. Then I pumped the gas and turned it...nothing. Then I pushed the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and it started right up. Each subsequent start after while the motor was warm did not require me to touch the pedal at all, is this normal?
Also, nobody responded to what transmission fluid I should put in. I bought the dex/merc 75,000 trans fluid because I kind of remember a friend saying something about mercon 3 a few weeks ago. Then I got into the truck and found a quart of Type F trans fluid behind the bench that says its for older trucks before 1977. So I checked while the motor was hot to confirm that indeed the trans had 0 fluid in it. Then I put the fluid in, and I ran it through all the gears on the column and low and behold the trans popped in. I was unable to get the truck moving (hopefully a combination of being stuck in the dirt, incredibly low air in rear driver's side tire and only having 1 quart trans fluid)
So I am still wondering if the Type F fluid is proper for this c4, and while I am at it, what oil should I put in when I get around to an oil change?
Also, nobody responded to what transmission fluid I should put in. I bought the dex/merc 75,000 trans fluid because I kind of remember a friend saying something about mercon 3 a few weeks ago. Then I got into the truck and found a quart of Type F trans fluid behind the bench that says its for older trucks before 1977. So I checked while the motor was hot to confirm that indeed the trans had 0 fluid in it. Then I put the fluid in, and I ran it through all the gears on the column and low and behold the trans popped in. I was unable to get the truck moving (hopefully a combination of being stuck in the dirt, incredibly low air in rear driver's side tire and only having 1 quart trans fluid)
So I am still wondering if the Type F fluid is proper for this c4, and while I am at it, what oil should I put in when I get around to an oil change?
#19
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: La Ribera, Baja, Mexico
Posts: 2,694
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Hey Birdman,
I have an old '69 NP435 I will give you, but you'd have to wait for me to haul it north from the end of Baja. I do like the sounds of that swap to the '95 five speed though.. mmmm has me thinking.. Mine is a 4x4 highboy so probably not worth it.. Let me know, I come North of the border about twice a year.. and welcome..
Baja
I have an old '69 NP435 I will give you, but you'd have to wait for me to haul it north from the end of Baja. I do like the sounds of that swap to the '95 five speed though.. mmmm has me thinking.. Mine is a 4x4 highboy so probably not worth it.. Let me know, I come North of the border about twice a year.. and welcome..
Baja
#24
The Novak Conversions Transmission Information Gateway
You don't need it to be synchronized in 1st -or- reverse, that's for delivery
vans etc. Like the old UPS trucks had T19's and 300i6's in 'em. Don't listen
to "68Crabby" about that part. ;)
That is one real nice old pickup you got there, Craig! :)
Take the front bumper to a chrome shop and get it straightened and IMO,
that'll fix it right up. Please don't paint that old pickup! Please? :)
Swapping it to manual would be cool as anything and easy as pie -if- you
had a parts truck right there. So the hard part will be sourcing the parts.
If you get lucky and the parts are easy to find the swap's a cinch. Really. :)
Do it! :)
I'll be worth it in the long run.
Alvin in AZ
ps- Special ordered a '75 F150 with a T18 in it when I was 21 years old
and it still runs great! :) Swapped a ZF speed into a '91 Bronco and it
was easy too. You can do this... -if- ...you got the parts.
pps- Here's my "new standard response" to "no start" threads...
Sorry about the bad attitude but they'd just keep swapping parts. :/
The "gambling method" of electrical troubleshooting, I call that. LOL :)
-----------------------------------------------------
I don't usually look at these "no start" threads because the OP won't use
a meter to find the trouble. At best he'll swap parts even-after I type out
a detailed "how to". :/
-----------------------------------------------------
Here's my way of doing it...
An analog voltmeter is all you need.
Trick is to first try it on a vehicle that's working to see it in action. :)
1) Don't mess with any wires etc, get the analog voltmeter out first-thing. :)
That's so you won't "clear-up the trouble on yourself" and then won't know
what needs fixing. BTDT :) Do yourself a big favor and let the voltmeter do
its job before you go monkeying with it. ;)
2) Read the battery voltage by digging the voltmeter's leads into the
battery's terminals (not the clamps;). Should read ~12 volts.
3) Have a helper try to start the vehicle. I've done this by myself, so don't
tell me you can't too. ;) But a helper's cool, you can teach the helper how
to troubleshoot a starting/charging system using only an analog voltmeter
while you're at it. ;)
4) Watch to see how far-below the original 12v reading the needle goes...
-> Drops to ~11 volts and starter sounds good and engine starts fine? --> 5
-> Less that 10 volts and sounds sluggish or won't even turn over? --> 4a
-> Don't move much, stays at ~12 volts and won't turn over? --> 4b
5) After it starts, does the voltage stay at ~12 volts or rise to ~13 volts?
If it just sits there at the original voltage then you've got charging circuit
trouble, could be the alternator or the voltage regulator or both.
4a) Typically you've got a good connection through the whole starter's
circuit and got a low or weak battery. How old is the battery?
4b) Typically you got an "open circuit" (as opposed to a "short circuit")
and the analog meter will find it for you if you-let-it-lead-you to it.
In big steps or little steps, move the leads closer to the "load" (the starter)
until you get virtually-zero-volts (while the helper is trying to start the
engine). Use little steps as you narrow in on exactly where the open-circuit
is. ;)
-----------------------------------------------------
Starter relay terminal designations...
S = -to- "Starter relay coil" -from- the ignition switch
I = -to- "Ignition coil" -from- positive battery inside the starter relay
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